so pricing things up (all from Paddocks until i speak to some local suppliers)

Rear coil spring seat, 2 ov, £50.53

Monroe adventure gas shocks 2 ov, £52.28

Coil spring heavy duty 2 ov, £44.32

rear bush and bolt kit, £18.80

total £165.93 to correct the rear suspension, having spoken to my welder he's happy to do just about anything on a landy (has rock sliders and sump guard for me ) so that helps (he has very onset MS so i do the walking and the lifting and he does the skill bits!)


still i'll get under there with a big screw driver and stab it till it bleeds! Hopefully i wont find anymore nasties, though the brakes are god aweful!

Take a plastic mallet and **** the main chassis rails (the bits that run front to rear) if they 'ring' rather than 'thud' it's a good sign... if they thud, don't bother looking much further

just as soon as the weather warms back up and or thursday i'll be looking to get some ringing in my ears

In the mean time i stopped in at LR in liverpool who reckoned £290 all in to do both sides, and about 4 hours work, so not too bad at all, but the mechanic reckons he did one last week and it was a pretty straight forward afair! Have been advised of a guy in Shotton who should have the parts i need for very very little so i might just have a play anyways

Quote ...It spends most of its time on a farm running on red diesel, only it turns out that its heating diesel not engine diesel.

Who cares?
Diesel fuel, DERV, gas oil, 35 second heating oil, are all based on the same thing, and your diesel engine won't know any difference.

Oh Yes, the fuel companies will say road diesel is different ... crap ... they just charge more and say it's low sulphur. Who cares?
Red diesel / gas oil / 35 second heating oil is basic diesel fuel with some red dye added to it. There is no other difference.

Farmers (and me) have big tanks of gas oil or red diesel for their tractors and machines. Diesel is diesel. Red diesel is just a whole lot less taxed.

CharlesY

id smak the crap outta the chassis with a big bloody hammer , it dont look too clever in the pics.
my 90 cost 500 quid , i was told it only needed outriggers , cost 3.5k to sort it out.

nobber said:

id smak the crap outta the chassis with a big bloody hammer

Click to expand...

This big enough?



And the results, mixed but mostly good!

first up, rust, this is on the passenger side rail, rear shock in picture (the still working shock!)


bottom of the spring mount on this side (the big pad attached to the transmission) is delaminating, but resonably solid). bump stop on this side has had the front bolt shear off;



the rest of the rail on this side is pretty solid, my big hammer only made the bugger ring and bar the back 2ft the rest is very clean and painted!

The rear cross member is actually quite happy, bit rusty on the drivers side but i went for it with the ole hammer with nothing major coming of it! It is missing a mud flap off this side though!

However, the drivers side chassis rail is not very pretty. It's been badly patched a fe times worst is right at the back;



pretty obvious hole there and its not the worse! As you can see in this picture of the swiss cheese tow hitch mount, looks like something i've been trying to weld ;


rear o/s strut mount, pretty solid (under bashing it didn't bend) but clearly seen better days;


and some more sceptical bodging back together of the ?out rigger?



not the greatest picture, but there is some deffinate holeage round this area of the chassis;



shoudl there be some sort of rack stop to prevent this from happening?;



infact while on the steering thing, is this whats causing so much play in the steering?? the ball joint looks a little hammered;



guessing this bit should be shiney and greased, not dry and pitted with rust?



as an almost finale, this is the very worst of all the rust, on the front passenger side out riggery thingy mabob, gues it might need to work on it;



Hmmm, i suspect this can be cleaned and patched or better still completely cut off and a new piece added in?

And for the final picture, its leaking oil, anywhere i should look in particular or should i just accept that this landy is always gonna mark its turf!





Ah all, done, so whats the verdict? Set it on fire and wheel it into the pit of certain death (where all the logs are burnt off)?
http://www.vangordon.co.uk/bxproject/gallery2/d/2599-2/Image021.jpghttp://www.vangordon.co.uk/bxproject/gallery2/d/2554-2/Image006_001.jpg

Ball joints are cheap enough. The wear marks are from the tyre rubbing, this could be caused by the tracking out or the wrong size tyres both can be adjusted. Swivel balls need replacing kits available from Paddocks, be prepared to have to do your CV joints while your at it, kits are available for these as well. Oil leak could be coming from anywhere.

This looks like quite a nice project. I'm concidering the old recovery pickup at work, its a 3a, needs a bulkhead but has a galvanised chassis and new doors already!

Keep us posted on the project mate!