TERRYDONTSURF
New Member
Top build thread fella!
Have owned numerous Buggies/rails/Bugs/bays/Notchback/T25s etc etc over the years. Currently have a splitty that i am in the middle of fitting EFI in.
Unfortunately, as you have also said, that is soon up for sale as we need a new oven for our Vdub paintshop
(know anyone wantiny a 11 window 67, rust free arizona import 3 years ago, miles 1600TP and full DTA Efi system - all with 0 miles excpet dyno time
Have owned numerous Buggies/rails/Bugs/bays/Notchback/T25s etc etc over the years. Currently have a splitty that i am in the middle of fitting EFI in.
Unfortunately, as you have also said, that is soon up for sale as we need a new oven for our Vdub paintshop
(know anyone wantiny a 11 window 67, rust free arizona import 3 years ago, miles 1600TP and full DTA Efi system - all with 0 miles excpet dyno time
bigvinnie
Active Member
Cracking thread , wish i could paint like yursell!
Enjoying yur tips and progress, question what sealent/adhesive did you use to hold in the new rubber seals on the airvents?
Only asking as thats a job i,m doing when i,m on duty this week and i can take the 110 inside to fit new rubber seals.
, wish i could paint like yursell!Enjoying yur tips and progress, question what sealent/adhesive did you use to hold in the new rubber seals on the airvents?
Only asking as thats a job i,m doing when i,m on duty this week and i can take the 110 inside to fit new rubber seals.
matchmetisse
New Member
Would you take on a spray job on a 90, ours is almost ready for one!
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mick the builder
Well-Known Member
I used Tiger seal.Cracking thread
Enjoying yur tips and progress, question what sealent/adhesive did you use to hold in the new rubber seals on the airvents?
Only asking as thats a job i,m doing when i,m on duty this week and i can take the 110 inside to fit new rubber seals.
bigvinnie
Active Member
Cheers i,ll get some this week then!
RobertOHare
New Member
what dye did you use on the interior !
Outstanding work, really like the headlining. Is it just a relatively low cost interior carpet? The foam I assume is some sort of closed cell thing.
May I ask what adhesive you used to fit it? I've read threads previously saying people have had issues getting a good stick. I guess by your experience you've been using the same stuff on VW's in the past.
May I ask what adhesive you used to fit it? I've read threads previously saying people have had issues getting a good stick. I guess by your experience you've been using the same stuff on VW's in the past.
Offshiftproject
Member
A bit more work done -
I have a bit of a thing about the environment that I drive in and want it all to look like it should belong in there - So the sun visors needed some work - Yes I did say sun visors
So this is how they were - filthy to say the least
Once cleaned up they looked ok but still had some stains
I also thought the light grey would stand out too much from the planned dark grey and black interior - So out came the dye
Once fitted they blend in nicely - They have a few finger marks on here from the powder on new seals
Rear view mirror cleaned up well
New seals for the front vents fitted - hence the finger marks
Next choice is seats - I want 4 the same and had to make a choice between MGF
Or these are MK2 MR2 seats
In the end MGF won through - The MR2 ones are for sale at £35 the pair if anyone is interested
Next up were the vents - This is how they were .
Once bare metalled they went into etch and then primer
Finally painted in body colour and fitted back in place - even go back flat with the new seals
How did you dye them out of interest ? I have same problem, have recovered my roof lining with a dark carpet and my sun visors are left grey....... Looks odd ;-)
excellent build!!! I'm in the beggining of respraying mine + rebuilding the hard top and I have couple of questions:
-some parts you sanded to bare metal while others not. when you applied etch on the partialy bare, did you have any problems at the areas that were still having old paint/primers etc??
- any plans for the interior door panels (the plastic ones)?? Mine are a nit battered but good enough to cover with new PVC - just like the seat trim.
-some parts you sanded to bare metal while others not. when you applied etch on the partialy bare, did you have any problems at the areas that were still having old paint/primers etc??
- any plans for the interior door panels (the plastic ones)?? Mine are a nit battered but good enough to cover with new PVC - just like the seat trim.
alekos said:
Yeah i had that problem. The etch sat nicely on bare metal and ok on the old paint. But at the edges of the old paint it reacted and crinkled. Lots of further sanding and fine dustings of filler primer eventually got me through it.
I'm sure there is a more professional way!
Cracking thread
Enjoying yur tips and progress, question what sealent/adhesive did you use to hold in the new rubber seals on the airvents?
Only asking as thats a job i,m doing when i,m on duty this week and i can take the 110 inside to fit new rubber seals.
Sorry ive not replied sooner - trying to get the damn thing finished .
Adhesive i used is standard contact adhesive - just make sure everything is clean and let it go tacky first .
Glad you are enjoying thread - im enjoying doing it
Would you take on a spray job on a 90, ours is almost ready for one!
Yep - Thats what I do - PM sent
Leather / vinyl dye from evil bay - nothing special
Hi - Foam was just a thin 1/2 inch piece I had for doing tuck and roll seating on VW's - The headliner is acoustic carpet - very stretchy and easy to mould .
Adhesive is high temp spray adhesive - Just get the roof clean , I used panel wipe , and I also added a bit of heat with a heat gun .
Just removed - cleaned well and added with a soft brush - Let it dry and do a couple of coats until you are happy with colour / finish .
Then clean off with a cleaner of some sort so you dont get dye on fingers when you move the flaps
Hi , I have found that as long as its factory paint that you are going over its ok , I use a 2 pack etch , and 2 pack right through . You only tend to get a reaction when you get a single pack etch or primer thrown in to the mix , as the 2 pack tends to dissolve it .
Hope the paint on the door doesnt react now !!!
No real plans for the door panels at the moment - ill see what they look like when they are fitted .
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Thanks! Today I got in touch with 2 european autocolor companies Technical Assistance here in Greece.
Both told me that in this case I should not use etch due to the fact that etch primer does not really goes through old paint or primers. For this application a 2 component epoxy primer should be used.
I have not tried it myself but this is the technical advise I was given - I am not saying its correct till proved. I'll try it on my LR and let you all know.
Thanks! Today I got in touch with 2 european autocolor companies Technical Assistance here in Greece.
Both told me that in this case I should not use etch due to the fact that etch primer does not really goes through old paint or primers. For this application a 2 component epoxy primer should be used.
I have not tried it myself but this is the technical advise I was given - I am not saying its correct till proved. I'll try it on my LR and let you all know.
I would agree - etch is only for use on bare metal , thats why it looks patchy in some pictures . Good luck with the rebuild .
