S

sevensixtwo_fmj@hotmail.com

Guest
Hey,
actually Help!

Here's my symptoms:

1. Cranks fine
2. Lots of good spark
3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke.. verified twice.
4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)
6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional

Big clue is the following and explains why its not firing:

We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector plugs and
there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains the lack
of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel injectors not
to be pulsed.

We haven't done a compression test but we've got a professionally
built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be done...

Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
HELP HELP HELP

Thanks

James

 
Check the Cam Position Sensor (inside the distributor). There's this
vague recollection that if that fails it inhibits the injectors.
That's the thing that tells the computer where in the two revolutions
you are to determine TDC for #1 cylinder since it can't tell the
compression strke from the exhaust stroke using just the crank
position sensor.

On Tue, 10 May 2005 14:07:26 UTC sevensixtwo_fmj@hotmail.com wrote:

> Hey,
> actually Help!
>
> Here's my symptoms:
>
> 1. Cranks fine
> 2. Lots of good spark
> 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke.. verified twice.
> 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)
> 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
> 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
>
> Big clue is the following and explains why its not firing:
>
> We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector plugs and
> there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains the lack
> of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel injectors not
> to be pulsed.
>
> We haven't done a compression test but we've got a professionally
> built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be done...
>
> Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
> HELP HELP HELP
>
> Thanks
>
> James
>



--
Will Honea
 
There is a ballast resistor out on the drivers side fender near the rad
that controls the power to the fuel pump.

Do you hear the pump hum when the key is first turned on?

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? It is on the frame
rail just in front of the tank, drivers side.

The pump also needs a ground which is supplied via the mesh strap from
the rear of the head to the firewall. I test that by putting a booster
cable from the battery negative tot he firewall to see if they start
then.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

sevensixtwo_fmj@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> Hey,
> actually Help!
>
> Here's my symptoms:
>
> 1. Cranks fine
> 2. Lots of good spark
> 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke.. verified twice.
> 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)
> 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
> 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
>
> Big clue is the following and explains why its not firing:
>
> We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector plugs and
> there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains the lack
> of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel injectors not
> to be pulsed.
>
> We haven't done a compression test but we've got a professionally
> built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be done...
>
> Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
> HELP HELP HELP
>
> Thanks
>
> James

 
He says the fuel rail is pressurized and has no injector pulse - can
you think of anything besides the cam sensor that would inhibit the
injectors but not the spark? I assumed that the fuel pressure stayed
up during cranking. That long crank to start the Renix MPI 4.0 like
ours appears to be due to waiting for the #1 tdc pulse before putting
fuel to the cylinders. This also sounds a lot like the recall for the
'87 XJ/MJ where the Cam sensor leads were breaking off at the
distributor.

On Wed, 11 May 2005 18:03:11 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> There is a ballast resistor out on the drivers side fender near the rad
> that controls the power to the fuel pump.
>
> Do you hear the pump hum when the key is first turned on?
>
> When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? It is on the frame
> rail just in front of the tank, drivers side.
>
> The pump also needs a ground which is supplied via the mesh strap from
> the rear of the head to the firewall. I test that by putting a booster
> cable from the battery negative tot he firewall to see if they start
> then.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> sevensixtwo_fmj@hotmail.com wrote:
> >
> > Hey,
> > actually Help!
> >
> > Here's my symptoms:
> >
> > 1. Cranks fine
> > 2. Lots of good spark
> > 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke.. verified twice.
> > 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> > 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)
> > 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
> > 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
> >
> > Big clue is the following and explains why its not firing:
> >
> > We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector plugs and
> > there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains the lack
> > of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel injectors not
> > to be pulsed.
> >
> > We haven't done a compression test but we've got a professionally
> > built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be done...
> >
> > Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
> > HELP HELP HELP
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > James



--
Will Honea
 
I 'think' in another group some Jeep 'mechanic' insists that our renix
will start and run without the cam sensor even plugged in?

I had injector failure and it was a bad ground strap from the body to
the engine. Some things can steal a ground, but not all. Once the
starter is cranking, it can not leave enough juice to get around to
everything and fire up the computer if it has bad connections.

Mike

Will Honea wrote:
>
> He says the fuel rail is pressurized and has no injector pulse - can
> you think of anything besides the cam sensor that would inhibit the
> injectors but not the spark? I assumed that the fuel pressure stayed
> up during cranking. That long crank to start the Renix MPI 4.0 like
> ours appears to be due to waiting for the #1 tdc pulse before putting
> fuel to the cylinders. This also sounds a lot like the recall for the
> '87 XJ/MJ where the Cam sensor leads were breaking off at the
> distributor.
>
> On Wed, 11 May 2005 18:03:11 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > There is a ballast resistor out on the drivers side fender near the rad
> > that controls the power to the fuel pump.
> >
> > Do you hear the pump hum when the key is first turned on?
> >
> > When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? It is on the frame
> > rail just in front of the tank, drivers side.
> >
> > The pump also needs a ground which is supplied via the mesh strap from
> > the rear of the head to the firewall. I test that by putting a booster
> > cable from the battery negative tot he firewall to see if they start
> > then.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > sevensixtwo_fmj@hotmail.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey,
> > > actually Help!
> > >
> > > Here's my symptoms:
> > >
> > > 1. Cranks fine
> > > 2. Lots of good spark
> > > 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke.. verified twice.
> > > 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> > > 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)
> > > 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
> > > 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
> > >
> > > Big clue is the following and explains why its not firing:
> > >
> > > We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector plugs and
> > > there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains the lack
> > > of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel injectors not
> > > to be pulsed.
> > >
> > > We haven't done a compression test but we've got a professionally
> > > built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be done...
> > >
> > > Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
> > > HELP HELP HELP
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > James

>
> --
> Will Honea

 
I'll see your Jeep 'mechanic' and raise on 1988 MPI manual <g>.
There's was a fairly long section in there about the Cam sensor
failure in there dealing with the 87 recall. The wires from the
distributor were breaking and the diagnostic they give was no injector
pulse. There is also a separate ground for the injectors and one Jeep
mechanic at the local dealer was showing me where he had problems in
that big hulking connector on the firewall with that, so that's also a
good start, too. The cam sensor is easy enough to check - one pulse
per revolution of the engine. It's a Hall Effect switch just like the
Crank sensor.

I've dealt with the crapped out crank sensor and the limp home mode.
Boy! Is that ever an appropriate decription. It would start and idle
but anything much above idle it work buck and load down immediately.
I came home basically at idle playing with the gears all the way. I
think I got 1000 rpm max - sure did irritate the folks who got stuck
behind me. Even 5th gear at 1000 RPM makes the tortise look fast. I
guess if they know the crank angle from the CPS they could fire both
ignition and injectors for each pair of cylinders together but they
would still have to know where #1 was and I don't remember any unique
notch pattern on the flywheel ring that would tell them that.


On Thu, 12 May 2005 13:12:54 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> I 'think' in another group some Jeep 'mechanic' insists that our renix
> will start and run without the cam sensor even plugged in?
>
> I had injector failure and it was a bad ground strap from the body to
> the engine. Some things can steal a ground, but not all. Once the
> starter is cranking, it can not leave enough juice to get around to
> everything and fire up the computer if it has bad connections.
>
> Mike
>
> Will Honea wrote:
> >
> > He says the fuel rail is pressurized and has no injector pulse - can
> > you think of anything besides the cam sensor that would inhibit the
> > injectors but not the spark? I assumed that the fuel pressure stayed
> > up during cranking. That long crank to start the Renix MPI 4.0 like
> > ours appears to be due to waiting for the #1 tdc pulse before putting
> > fuel to the cylinders. This also sounds a lot like the recall for the
> > '87 XJ/MJ where the Cam sensor leads were breaking off at the
> > distributor.
> >
> > On Wed, 11 May 2005 18:03:11 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > There is a ballast resistor out on the drivers side fender near the rad
> > > that controls the power to the fuel pump.
> > >
> > > Do you hear the pump hum when the key is first turned on?
> > >
> > > When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? It is on the frame
> > > rail just in front of the tank, drivers side.
> > >
> > > The pump also needs a ground which is supplied via the mesh strap from
> > > the rear of the head to the firewall. I test that by putting a booster
> > > cable from the battery negative tot he firewall to see if they start
> > > then.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > sevensixtwo_fmj@hotmail.com wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey,
> > > > actually Help!
> > > >
> > > > Here's my symptoms:
> > > >
> > > > 1. Cranks fine
> > > > 2. Lots of good spark
> > > > 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke.. verified twice.
> > > > 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> > > > 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)
> > > > 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
> > > > 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
> > > >
> > > > Big clue is the following and explains why its not firing:
> > > >
> > > > We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector plugs and
> > > > there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains the lack
> > > > of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel injectors not
> > > > to be pulsed.
> > > >
> > > > We haven't done a compression test but we've got a professionally
> > > > built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be done...
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
> > > > HELP HELP HELP
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > >
> > > > James

> >
> > --
> > Will Honea



--
Will Honea
 
"sevensixtwo_fmj" wrote:
> Hey,
> actually Help!
>
> Here's my symptoms:
>
> 1. Cranks fine
> 2. Lots of good spark
> 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke.. verified twice.
> 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)
> 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
> 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
>
> Big clue is the following and explains why its not firing:
>
> We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector plugs and
> there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains the lack
> of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel injectors
> not
> to be pulsed.
>
> We haven't done a compression test but we've got a
> professionally
> built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be done...
>
> Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
> HELP HELP HELP
>
> Thanks
>
> James


Having pretty much the same problem.
It seemed to start with the sensor on the flywheel so that was
replaced.
The next time it stopped I had some test equiepment with me and I had
no fuel pressure, replacing the relay seemed to fix it but not for
long.
Next came the fuel pump and filter, seemed to fix it but not for long.
I have checked all the ground wires, I have no power to pump, fuel
pump relay pulls in for three seconds, pump does not run, there is no
ballist resistor anywhere to be found.
On the drivers side fender there is a EGR selonoid and a relay that
should be the fan control.
This is a 87 AMC 4.0.

--
Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-89-Jeep-Cherokee-Start-Fuel-Injector-Pulse-ftopict119514.html
Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=601383
 
The ballast resistor for the fuel pump is out on the drivers side fender
by the radiator.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

langer1 wrote:
>
> "sevensixtwo_fmj" wrote:
> > Hey,
> > actually Help!
> >
> > Here's my symptoms:
> >
> > 1. Cranks fine
> > 2. Lots of good spark
> > 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke.. verified twice.
> > 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> > 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)
> > 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
> > 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
> >
> > Big clue is the following and explains why its not firing:
> >
> > We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector plugs and
> > there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains the lack
> > of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel injectors
> > not
> > to be pulsed.
> >
> > We haven't done a compression test but we've got a
> > professionally
> > built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be done...
> >
> > Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
> > HELP HELP HELP
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > James

>
> Having pretty much the same problem.
> It seemed to start with the sensor on the flywheel so that was
> replaced.
> The next time it stopped I had some test equiepment with me and I had
> no fuel pressure, replacing the relay seemed to fix it but not for
> long.
> Next came the fuel pump and filter, seemed to fix it but not for long.
> I have checked all the ground wires, I have no power to pump, fuel
> pump relay pulls in for three seconds, pump does not run, there is no
> ballist resistor anywhere to be found.
> On the drivers side fender there is a EGR selonoid and a relay that
> should be the fan control.
> This is a 87 AMC 4.0.
>
> --
> Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
> Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
> Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-89-Jeep-Cherokee-Start-Fuel-Injector-Pulse-ftopict119514.html
> Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=601383

 
"Mike Romain" wrote:
> The ballast resistor for the fuel pump is out on the drivers
> side fender
> by the radiator.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> langer1 wrote:
> >
> > "sevensixtwo_fmj" wrote:

> &nbsp;> > Hey,
> &nbsp;> > actually Help!
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > Here's my symptoms:
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > 1. Cranks fine
> &nbsp;> > 2. Lots of good spark
> &nbsp;> > 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke..
> verified twice.
> &nbsp;> > 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> &nbsp;> > 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can
> tell)
> &nbsp;> > 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
> &nbsp;> > 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > Big clue is the following and explains why its not
> firing:
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector
> plugs and
> &nbsp;> > there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains
> the lack
> &nbsp;> > of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel
> injectors
> &nbsp;> > not
> &nbsp;> > to be pulsed.
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > We haven't done a compression test but we've got a
> &nbsp;> > professionally
> &nbsp;> > built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be
> done...
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
> &nbsp;> > HELP HELP HELP
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > Thanks
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > James
> >
> > Having pretty much the same problem.
> > It seemed to start with the sensor on the flywheel so that

> was
> > replaced.
> > The next time it stopped I had some test equiepment with me

> and I had
> > no fuel pressure, replacing the relay seemed to fix it but

> not for
> > long.
> > Next came the fuel pump and filter, seemed to fix it but not

> for long.
> > I have checked all the ground wires, I have no power to

> pump, fuel
> > pump relay pulls in for three seconds, pump does not run,

> there is no
> > ballist resistor anywhere to be found.
> > On the drivers side fender there is a EGR selonoid and a

> relay that
> > should be the fan control.
> > This is a 87 AMC 4.0.
> >
> > --
> > Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
> > Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet

> standards
> > Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-89-Jeep-Cherokee-Start-Fuel-Injector-Pulse-ftopict119514.html
> > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=601383





Sure wish it was, I even removed the washer tank and looked under
there.
 
On 8 Jun 2005 20:37:46 -0400, langer1 <DoNotEmail@AutoForumz.com>
wrote:

>"Mike Romain" wrote:
> > The ballast resistor for the fuel pump is out on the drivers
> > side fender
> > by the radiator.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > langer1 wrote:
> > >
> > > "sevensixtwo_fmj" wrote:

> > &nbsp;> > Hey,
> > &nbsp;> > actually Help!
> > &nbsp;> >
> > &nbsp;> > Here's my symptoms:
> > &nbsp;> >
> > &nbsp;> > 1. Cranks fine
> > &nbsp;> > 2. Lots of good spark
> > &nbsp;> > 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke..
> > verified twice.
> > &nbsp;> > 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> > &nbsp;> > 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can
> > tell)
> > &nbsp;> > 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
> > &nbsp;> > 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
> > &nbsp;> >
> > &nbsp;> > Big clue is the following and explains why its not
> > firing:
> > &nbsp;> >
> > &nbsp;> > We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector
> > plugs and
> > &nbsp;> > there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains
> > the lack
> > &nbsp;> > of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel
> > injectors
> > &nbsp;> > not
> > &nbsp;> > to be pulsed.
> > &nbsp;> >
> > &nbsp;> > We haven't done a compression test but we've got a
> > &nbsp;> > professionally
> > &nbsp;> > built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be
> > done...
> > &nbsp;> >
> > &nbsp;> > Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
> > &nbsp;> > HELP HELP HELP
> > &nbsp;> >
> > &nbsp;> > Thanks
> > &nbsp;> >
> > &nbsp;> > James
> > >
> > > Having pretty much the same problem.
> > > It seemed to start with the sensor on the flywheel so that

> > was
> > > replaced.
> > > The next time it stopped I had some test equiepment with me

> > and I had
> > > no fuel pressure, replacing the relay seemed to fix it but

> > not for
> > > long.
> > > Next came the fuel pump and filter, seemed to fix it but not

> > for long.
> > > I have checked all the ground wires, I have no power to

> > pump, fuel
> > > pump relay pulls in for three seconds, pump does not run,

> > there is no
> > > ballist resistor anywhere to be found.
> > > On the drivers side fender there is a EGR selonoid and a

> > relay that
> > > should be the fan control.
> > > This is a 87 AMC 4.0.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
> > > Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet

> > standards
> > > Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-89-Jeep-Cherokee-Start-Fuel-Injector-Pulse-ftopict119514.html
> > > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=601383

>
>
>
>
>Sure wish it was, I even removed the washer tank and looked under
>there.




I've never worked on a jeep but doesen't the ECM control the pulse on
the fuel injections system? Do you have any ECM codes present and is
there any reason to suspect a faulty ECM?



---
Elbert Clarke
elbert.clarke@**adelphia.net
remove ** to email

 
Fuel pump won't stop the injectors from firing. I'm surprised at you,
Mike. This is a perfect place to point to the ground strap <g>. Jump
the battery negative to a clean bolt on the firewall and see what
happens ( try jumpering to the ground lug on the firewall up by the
MAP sensor - the one with the braided cable on it - as that's the
cable that rots out).

On Wed, 8 Jun 2005 18:40:18 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

> The ballast resistor for the fuel pump is out on the drivers side fender
> by the radiator.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> langer1 wrote:
> >
> > "sevensixtwo_fmj" wrote:
> > > Hey,
> > > actually Help!
> > >
> > > Here's my symptoms:
> > >
> > > 1. Cranks fine
> > > 2. Lots of good spark
> > > 3. Timing was set TDC on compression stroke.. verified twice.
> > > 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> > > 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)
> > > 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the sensor)
> > > 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
> > >
> > > Big clue is the following and explains why its not firing:
> > >
> > > We stuck a Noid light on two or three injector plugs and
> > > there's no pulsing to the injectors. This explains the lack
> > > of starting. But WHY??? What could cause the fuel injectors
> > > not
> > > to be pulsed.
> > >
> > > We haven't done a compression test but we've got a
> > > professionally
> > > built long block so I'm not sure it needs to be done...
> > >
> > > Any thoughts or insight would be appreciated..
> > > HELP HELP HELP
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > James

> >
> > Having pretty much the same problem.
> > It seemed to start with the sensor on the flywheel so that was
> > replaced.
> > The next time it stopped I had some test equiepment with me and I had
> > no fuel pressure, replacing the relay seemed to fix it but not for
> > long.
> > Next came the fuel pump and filter, seemed to fix it but not for long.
> > I have checked all the ground wires, I have no power to pump, fuel
> > pump relay pulls in for three seconds, pump does not run, there is no
> > ballist resistor anywhere to be found.
> > On the drivers side fender there is a EGR selonoid and a relay that
> > should be the fan control.
> > This is a 87 AMC 4.0.
> >
> > --
> > Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
> > Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
> > Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-89-Jeep-Cherokee-Start-Fuel-Injector-Pulse-ftopict119514.html
> > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=601383



--
Will Honea
 
"whonea" wrote:
> Fuel pump won't stop the injectors from firing. I'm surprised
> at you,
> Mike. This is a perfect place to point to the ground strap
> <g>. Jump
> the battery negative to a clean bolt on the firewall and see
> what
> happens ( try jumpering to the ground lug on the firewall up
> by the
> MAP sensor - the one with the braided cable on it - as that's
> the
> cable that rots out).
>
> On Wed, 8 Jun 2005 18:40:18 UTC Mike Romain
> <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > The ballast resistor for the fuel pump is out on the drivers

> side fender
> > by the radiator.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in

> '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > langer1 wrote:

> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > "sevensixtwo_fmj" wrote:
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > Hey,
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > actually Help!
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > Here's my symptoms:
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > 1. Cranks fine
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > 2. Lots of good spark
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > 3. Timing was set TDC on compression
> stroke.. verified twice.
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > 4. Fuel Rail is pressurized
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > 5. Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as
> we can tell)
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > 6. Map Sensor Functional (voltage too the
> sensor)
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > 7. Throttle Position Sensor is functional
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > Big clue is the following and explains why
> its not firing:
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > We stuck a Noid light on two or three
> injector plugs and
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > there's no pulsing to the injectors. This
> explains the lack
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > of starting. But WHY??? What could cause
> the fuel injectors
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > not
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > to be pulsed.
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > We haven't done a compression test but
> we've got a
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > professionally
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > built long block so I'm not sure it needs
> to be done...
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > Any thoughts or insight would be
> appreciated..
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > HELP HELP HELP
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > Thanks
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > James
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > Having pretty much the same problem.
> &nbsp;> > It seemed to start with the sensor on the flywheel
> so that was
> &nbsp;> > replaced.
> &nbsp;> > The next time it stopped I had some test equiepment
> with me and I had
> &nbsp;> > no fuel pressure, replacing the relay seemed to fix
> it but not for
> &nbsp;> > long.
> &nbsp;> > Next came the fuel pump and filter, seemed to fix it
> but not for long.
> &nbsp;> > I have checked all the ground wires, I have no power
> to pump, fuel
> &nbsp;> > pump relay pulls in for three seconds, pump does not
> run, there is no
> &nbsp;> > ballist resistor anywhere to be found.
> &nbsp;> > On the drivers side fender there is a EGR selonoid
> and a relay that
> &nbsp;> > should be the fan control.
> &nbsp;> > This is a 87 AMC 4.0.
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > --
> &nbsp;> > Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com
> interface, at author's request
> &nbsp;> > Articles individually checked for conformance to
> usenet standards
> &nbsp;> > Topic URL:
> http://www.autoforumz.com/4X4-89-Jeep-Cherokee-Start-Fuel-Injector-Pulse-ftopict119514.html
> &nbsp;> > Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd).
> Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=601383
>
>
> --
> Will Honea


Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned connections,
still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. Here’s a
picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/langer1/jeep/IM000365.jpg
 
langer1 wrote:

>
> Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned connections,
> still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor. Here’s a
> picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either.
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/langer1/jeep/IM000365.jpg


Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below that vacuum thing out
on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted together with the
thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed crimp where someone
bypassed the resistor.

Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the typical chrysler
ceramic one.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
 
"Mike Romain" wrote:
> langer1 wrote:
>
> >
> > Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned

> connections,
> > still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor.

> Here’s a
> > picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either.
> >
> > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/langer1/jeep/IM000365.jpg

>
> Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below that vacuum
> thing out
> on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted together
> with the
> thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed crimp
> where someone
> bypassed the resistor.
>
> Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the typical
> chrysler
> ceramic one.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's


If you look ar the above picture.
Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a small
orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it.
Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a fuse.
But it’s a diode with <- +> on it. Sure looks like it’s in the fuel
pump circut.

--
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langer1 wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" wrote:
> > langer1 wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though and cleaned

> > connections,
> > > still pump don’t run and can’t find any ballist resistor.

> > Here’s a
> > > picture of driver side, nothing under washer bottle either.
> > >
> > > http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/langer1/jeep/IM000365.jpg

> >
> > Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below that vacuum
> > thing out
> > on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted together
> > with the
> > thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed crimp
> > where someone
> > bypassed the resistor.
> >
> > Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the typical
> > chrysler
> > ceramic one.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

>
> If you look ar the above picture.
> Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a small
> orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it.
> Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a fuse.
> But it’s a diode with <- +> on it. Sure looks like it’s in the fuel
> pump circut.
>
> --


Did you test it? Could just be popped.

If it is the orange wires, then I would carefully bypass it or
temporarily use an inline fuse on it to see if the pump comes back on.

Mike
 
"Mike Romain" wrote:
> langer1 wrote:
> >
> > "Mike Romain" wrote:

> &nbsp;> > langer1 wrote:
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > Ground strap is good, tryed a jumper though
> and cleaned
> &nbsp;> > connections,
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > still pump don’t run and can’t find any
> ballist resistor.
> &nbsp;> > Here’s a
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > > picture of driver side, nothing under
> washer bottle either.
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> &nbsp;&nbsp;> > >
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/langer1/jeep/IM000365.jpg
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > Ok, I would then be opening up the loom just below
> that vacuum
> &nbsp;> > thing out
> &nbsp;> > on the fender to look for two orange wires twisted
> together
> &nbsp;> > with the
> &nbsp;> > thoughts of finding a corroded connection or failed
> crimp
> &nbsp;> > where someone
> &nbsp;> > bypassed the resistor.
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > Or looking up on the firewall for one. It is the
> typical
> &nbsp;> > chrysler
> &nbsp;> > ceramic one.
> &nbsp;> >
> &nbsp;> > Mike
> &nbsp;> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to
> tail in '00
> &nbsp;> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > If you look ar the above picture.
> > Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a

> small
> > orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it.
> > Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a

> fuse.
> > But it’s a diode with &lt;- +&gt; on it. Sure looks like

> it’s in the fuel
> > pump circut.
> >
> > --

>
> Did you test it? Could just be popped.
>
> If it is the orange wires, then I would carefully bypass it or
> temporarily use an inline fuse on it to see if the pump comes
> back on.
>
> Mike


Re: Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)

Every three to six months I have to disconnect and reconnect CPS to
get vehicle to start. Previous owners had lots of troubleshooting done
to find this intermittent problem [replaced original, still had
problem eventually] - even gave me a new one with the vehicle [which I
still have] - I have put over 100k miles on this ride in the last 6
years, and still ’Every three to six months I have to disconnect and
reconnect CPS to get vehicle to start...’

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cno wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" wrote:
> > langer1 wrote:
> > >
> > > If you look ar the above picture.
> > > Just down from the right corner of the Air Box, there is a

> > small
> > > orange block/socket sticking up, the orange wire’s go to it.
> > > Plugged in to that block is what, at first, looks like a

> > fuse.
> > > But it’s a diode with &lt;- +&gt; on it. Sure looks like

> > it’s in the fuel
> > > pump circut.
> > >
> > > --

> >
> > Did you test it? Could just be popped.
> >
> > If it is the orange wires, then I would carefully bypass it or
> > temporarily use an inline fuse on it to see if the pump comes
> > back on.
> >
> > Mike

>
> Re: Crank Pos Sensor functional (as far as we can tell)
>
> Every three to six months I have to disconnect and reconnect CPS to
> get vehicle to start. Previous owners had lots of troubleshooting done
> to find this intermittent problem [replaced original, still had
> problem eventually] - even gave me a new one with the vehicle [which I
> still have] - I have put over 100k miles on this ride in the last 6
> years, and still ’Every three to six months I have to disconnect and
> reconnect CPS to get vehicle to start...’
>
> --


I got good advise on those plug and sockets, same for the throttle body
ones like the TPS and it was to do the same thing.

I went one better and recommend a spray contact cleaner inside them with
a smear of dielectric grease on the plug's sealing skirts. I get a good
2 or more years out of them before having to clean them again that way.

WD40 will sort of work as a contact cleaner in a pinch, but the fix
doesn't seem to last long. Real electronic cleaner is the best.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
 

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