poreilly101 said:
Hi guys,

Looking for some direction as to where to go / what to do.

I've got a fairly original LR 110 2.5 NA hard top in good condition overall but it's a bit too... Well... boring.
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Boring in what way? What do you use it for?

poreilly101 said:
I know many of you won't believe this but... I've a bone dry engine. It was fully rebuilt including the pump and the injectors. For 67 hp it runs like a song and i'm not up and down the gears like i was before the rebuild. Before I hear the yells for a 200/300Tdi - The answer is no... If I was going to do an engine transplant it would be more radical like a Cummins 5.9L
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I'm a huge Cummins fan, but putting one in a Land Rover is IMO not a great idea. The 5.9 weighs in at 900lbs (410kg). It's just way to big and heavy for a Land Rover. Plus you'd only put on in to get power and they make power by making insane torque. Nothing standard driveline will like it. So HUGE cost and even more heavier parts.

A V8 on the other hand would certainly be a good upgrade.

poreilly101 said:
- Winch (to be sourced)
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Do you actually need a winch? Or is it just for the look? If you want one to use, make sure you get one capable of doing what you'll need. Cheap underpowered winches probably won't help much when you really "need" to make use of them.

poreilly101 said:
- Roof Rack / Rear ladder (to be sourced)
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This is all personal choice. Nothing wrong with these, but do you need to make use of such items? A roof rack will make the vehicle taller, so maybe more issues in more car parks and not very good if you off road in and around trees. They also add a lot of weight high up, so can cause more body roll and handling issues.

poreilly101 said:
- Set of Alloys / offset steel rims with rubber (to be sourced). What are the suggestions here. I had found a set of Boost Alloys with new rubber but the wouldn't fit as the flange bolts were going to catch the inside of the wheel. I didn't fancy going grinding...
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Personally don't really like how alloys look on a Defender, especially older ones. Steel rims IMO look much more in character. what size tyres are you thinking of?

poreilly101 said:
- Stainless Steel Front Grille Black - (to be sourced)
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Not my style personally. Bit too bling. But have no objections if others like it.

poreilly101 said:
- Replace front seats for something more comfortable (to be sourced)
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Stock seats should be very comfortable tbh. They are good design.

Anything else simply doesn't fit all that well and will be a compromise. I know the RX-8 seats are popular, but they are big making getting in and out harder, they also reduce the amount of space you have around the driver. And will sit you higher and closer to the steering wheel. They also mean you can't easily get to the battery either. But ultimately it's a personal choice.


poreilly101 said:
- LED Lights all around (to be sourced). This will probably be an eBay purchase.
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Bit bling and Chelsea tractor IMO.

poreilly101 said:
- Full Respray/Wrap (to be sourced). I've been quoted €1500 for a wrap... What's the thoughts? Is a vinyl wrap tough enough? It would allow some radical color / designs.
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Wrap is expensive to do well. That looks way too cheap tbh. A good wrap will likely cost more than a good paint job. You might want to see some examples of their work.

Poor wraps look dreadful tbh.

And all wraps are "temporary". But will depend on use and where you keep it on how durable it is. Not saying don't, just research it fully first. :)
 
That's a really good looking original 110 - a pretty rare sight these days. Even the colour (apart from the roof) looks early - but it is an early roof with the reinforcing ribs on the outside. I'd take the checker plate off it.
 
300bhp/ton said:
Boring in what way? What do you use it for?
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Small bit of trailer work but mostly for cutting and taking timber of land.


300bhp/ton said:
I'm a huge Cummins fan, but putting one in a Land Rover is IMO not a great idea. The 5.9 weighs in at 900lbs (410kg). It's just way to big and heavy for a Land Rover. Plus you'd only put on in to get power and they make power by making insane torque. Nothing standard driveline will like it. So HUGE cost and even more heavier parts.

A V8 on the other hand would certainly be a good upgrade.
Click to expand...
After having a the engine / head refurbished along with the injector pump/injectors. The engine that's in it is very sweet. Im not going to change it. There's plenty in it for what I need.

300bhp/ton said:
Do you actually need a winch? Or is it just for the look? If you want one to use, make sure you get one capable of doing what you'll need. Cheap underpowered winches probably won't help much when you really "need" to make use of them.
Click to expand...
The sole reason for a winch is to pull cut logs / lengths out from ditched and the like. It's not for extreme offroading


300bhp/ton said:
Personally don't really like how alloys look on a Defender, especially older ones. Steel rims IMO look much more in character. what size tyres are you thinking of?
Click to expand...
This is where I'm at a loss. how big do i/should I go with the tires? I'd much prefer a set of offset steel wheels to alloys also.


300bhp/ton said:
Stock seats should be very comfortable tbh. They are good design.

Anything else simply doesn't fit all that well and will be a compromise. I know the RX-8 seats are popular, but they are big making getting in and out harder, they also reduce the amount of space you have around the driver. And will sit you higher and closer to the steering wheel. They also mean you can't easily get to the battery either. But ultimately it's a personal choice.
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Access to the battery box can be important. I've my kill switch located in there. I would love some side support as the seats I have I feel are lacking. The do offer great space around the dirver but... I'm not sure
 
poreilly101 said:
The sole reason for a winch is to pull cut logs / lengths out from ditched and the like. It's not for extreme offroading
Click to expand...

If this is your need for a winch I would seriously consider a Husky or even going down the hydraulic route rather than a "normal" winch.

poreilly101 said:
This is where I'm at a loss. how big do i/should I go with the tires? I'd much prefer a set of offset steel wheels to alloys also.
Click to expand...

I would certainly not go larger than 265/75/16, however depending on the terrain you are using it on you may do better with narrow tyre like a 7.50.

Other than that I have to agree with everything @300bhp/ton has said.
 
With a 110 van, I doubt you'll have much need for a roof rack as there's usually enough space in the back. Get a set of three roof bars for when you get called on to do tip runs etc with bigger stuff. In is better than on.

Tyres- hard to go wrong with a 7.50R16 tyre which is what would originally have been fitted. Tube type tyres such as Avon Rangemasters can have the pressure dropped quite a bit for off road use.

The 2.5NA is a fairly solid engine and should have more than enough go for dragging things about at low speed, so if it's a good one like you say then definitely keep it.

For dragging things around all day rather than dragging the land rover out of a hole, I'd look into an engine-driven capstan winch rather than electric. A hand throttle was optional equipment in the 1980s and might be a good option if you go this route. Though first I'd try fitting some decent towing points fore and aft and see how you get on with just using the landy as a tractor.

If you want LED lights, there are some good units available which are a close match to the originals. Get coloured lenses for the indicator and stop/tail units rather than clear as these look better on an older vehicle.

The original seat backs should have reasonable side support. They were based on a lorry seat so meant for sitting on all day. I suspect they've just crumbled internally and in need of new foam. There are a couple of youtube videos showing how to refurbish them. It would be a good idea to clean and repaint the frames while they're apart too.
 
owas said:
I think the chequer plate makes it slightly molested
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Yeah, OK, relatively unmolested! It looks a lot like the first Landy I went to look at, same colour but a petrol '84 110. It needed a fair bit of work and the seller wouldn't move enough on price so I left it, but I didn't realise how rare the petrol 110's were at the time.

I must admit when looking for one, chequer plate plastered all over them really put me off, as did lots of other mods like non standard seats/dash/bumpers/wheels etc. I ended up getting an ex Army one in very original condition which I'm happy with.

Standard Landy's are rare so keep it as stock as possible IMHO.

Just thought I'd better add that I appreciate everyone has different ideas of what looks good and of course many mods are done because a lot of these are 'working' vehicles and they're adapted for whatever purpose they're being put to. But I still like to see a bog standard looking one too!
 
Last edited:
jee said:
Yeah, OK, relatively unmolested! It looks a lot like the first Landy I went to look at, same colour but a petrol '84 110. It needed a fair bit of work and the seller wouldn't move enough on price so I left it, but I didn't realise how rare the petrol 110's were at the time.

I must admit when looking for one, chequer plate plastered all over them really put me off, as did lots of other mods like non standard seats/dash/bumpers/wheels etc. I ended up getting an ex Army one in very original condition which I'm happy with.

Standard Landy's are rare so keep it as stock as possible IMHO.

Just thought I'd better add that I appreciate everyone has different ideas of what looks good and of course many mods are done because a lot of these are 'working' vehicles and they're adapted for whatever purpose they're being put to. But I still like to see a bog standard looking one too!
Click to expand...

I ended up doing the same,
I have nothing against chequer plate though, the army plastered it all over mine as an upgrade :D
 
owas said:
I ended up doing the same,
I have nothing against chequer plate though, the army plastered it all over mine as an upgrade :D
Click to expand...
Chequer plate should only be fitted where is serves a valid purpose, like wing and bonnet tops so you can stand on it to load the roof rack. Putting it down the sides is only done to hide corrosion that would be beter repaired.
 
Dude, thats a lovely looking thing, thats a restoration project not a work horse to modify, those front outer wings? Note the lack of side indicators and intake vents? You cant buy them anymore, not that ive seen. Those split doors? The door tops are very rare, you can buy military versions but they cost a lot, original galvy body parts (cappings , door trim and roof gutters), original paint, bulkhead looks Ok, if that were mine Id buy an old banger trooper or something for work and Id restore that, it really is a nice , clean honest example. Its also exportable in that condition which adds to its value. Whats it like underneath?
 
nobber said:
Dude, thats a lovely looking thing, thats a restoration project not a work horse to modify, those front outer wings? Note the lack of side indicators and intake vents? You cant buy them anymore, not that ive seen. Those split doors? The door tops are very rare, you can buy military versions but they cost a lot, original galvy body parts (cappings , door trim and roof gutters), original paint, bulkhead looks Ok, if that were mine Id buy an old banger trooper or something for work and Id restore that, it really is a nice , clean honest example. Its also exportable in that condition which adds to its value. Whats it like underneath?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input @nobber - It's in excellent condition underneath, Chassis was replaced 4 years ago. There is a small section of the bulk head that needs work which I have bought the panel and sending in for repair before Christmas.

I'm totally on the fence as to know what to do... What is it worth to sell/export? Should I sell what I have and pick up a workhorse/modified Land Rover?
 
dag019 said:
Chequer plate should only be fitted where is serves a valid purpose, like wing and bonnet tops so you can stand on it to load the roof rack. Putting it down the sides is only done to hide corrosion that would be beter repaired.
Click to expand...
I must admit, I have toyed with the idea of putting on my wing tops, as it was an FFR but all the FFR stuff was removed in the past and there's an acne of grommets where the holes are!

Either that or look out for a pair of the mast base box things (technical term).
 
If the chassis has been replaced it's not suitable for export to the US. Having said that, it really is an excellent example of an early 110. A few subtle changes to make it more usable for log collecting will not do it any harm. I'm biased - have a look at my profile picture.
 
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