Resetting adaptions is unlikely to be problematic unless one or more of the solenoids is faulty. Unfortunately, solenoid issues with the 6HP26/28 are not uncommon, so there is an element of risk. Land Rover instruct their technicians not to reset the adaptions following a fluid change to avoid risking burning out the clutches during the re-learning process. If you’re considering resetting the adaptions without a hardware/firmware change you should read the values first, to ensure that none of them are on the limit.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tdv8-56-plate-gearbox-knackered-options.330242/#post-4261119

Phil
 
Bemble said:
Resetting adaptions is unlikely to be problematic unless one or more of the solenoids is faulty. Unfortunately, solenoid issues with the 6HP26/28 are not uncommon, so there is an element of risk. Land Rover instruct their technicians not to reset the adaptions following a fluid change to avoid risking burning out the clutches during the re-learning process. If you’re considering resetting the adaptions without a hardware/firmware change you should read the values first, to ensure that none of them are on the limit.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tdv8-56-plate-gearbox-knackered-options.330242/#post-4261119

Phil
Click to expand...

Is this all the same with the ZF8 which is the box @kermit_rr has.

J
 
The problematic proportional solenoids used in the 6-speed i.e. 0501 213 959 (blue cap) and 0501 213 960 (yellow cap) are no longer used in the 8-speed, which instead uses 0501 218 796 (orange cap) and 0501 218 797 (white cap). It’s therefore possible that the design of these later solenoids has been improved to eliminate the issue. I would still check the existing adaption values before risking resetting them, though. In general terms, the long-term adaptions are there for a reason and shouldn’t be reset unless there has been a software/firmware update or Mechatronic components (such as the solenoids) have been replaced.

Phil
 
You should definitely do the reset, I did it on our pig of a GM 5 speed box and it has worked wonders!
 
Right, something new, which stacks up which what I've experienced before.
In manual 2nd, foot off both pedals.. 2000rpm and slowing, revs drop with speed so TC locked, get to somewhere around 1600?rpm and box goes into neutral!! Revs drop immediately to idle so the TC isn't doing anything at all
 
kermit_rr said:
Right, something new, which stacks up which what I've experienced before.
In manual 2nd, foot off both pedals.. 2000rpm and slowing, revs drop with speed so TC locked, get to somewhere around 1600?rpm and box goes into neutral!! Revs drop immediately to idle so the TC isn't doing anything at all
Click to expand...

And it it went much lower it would stall the engine? don't see why that's of concern?

Goes into neutral how can you tell?

J
 
marjon said:
And it it went much lower it would stall the engine? don't see why that's of concern?

Goes into neutral how can you tell?

J
Click to expand...
On any other auto I've driven, as you slow down, the TC unlocks and it behaves like a normal slushmatic and if you accelerate, engine speed climbs quicker than road speed then drop again as you lift off.
What's happening here, TC is locked as you'd expect at 2000 rpm, lift off and reeves drop with engine speed. Car slows a bit more and engine drops to normal idle speed. At this point i would expect the TC to be connected but unlocked (as when you drive off from stationary) but it's not, you can rev the engine freely up to the point it cut off and there's no road speed increase at all as if you've put your foot on the clutch.
At this point if you rev up to the point it cut off, the TC locks up again which is why i get the bang in the transmission, there's no normal 'slushmatic'
It might not be in neutral as such, but it's transmitting zero power to the wheels

Sorry for the ramble but don't know how else to explain
 
I don't know if it's a glitch in the system or slippage, but i was on cruise doing about 50 in a high gear, got on the accelerator and the revs briefly spiked 500rpm for a split second. Repeatable on other gears
 
Is there any decent auto transmission place near you? The one I use are very good just to phone up and speak to, and will allow time for you to drive up let them have a test drive in it and tell you what they think is wrong, without charge. Sometimes worth phoning a place like that see their view on it. Last time I had it with my td6 I was reversing on driveway and went from R to D to straighten up then back to R and had lost it on the dashboard but still showed on selector, phoned them to ask what he thought his words were “sounds like cable, probably corroded and broken away, look under car and you’ll see cable is slack” sure enough it was that, quick bodge with copper wire to hold it together and it plodded on another week before new cable was fitted.
I will say when my td6 was in for service he had a lot of BMWs, LRs etc all with the 8 speed box in for service & repair.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
L322 gearbox problem 2010 TDV8 Vogue
Replies
11
Views
496
roythebus
R
MrMatt83
L322 3.0 td6 gearbox problems
Replies
12
Views
1K
pwood999
pwood999
kermit_rr
L322 ZF8HP70 gearbox problem
2 3 4
Replies
64
Views
2K
Graculus
Graculus
ar1g3
P38A P38 rattle at idle
2
Replies
26
Views
3K
roythebus
R
S
Freelander 2 (LR2) Vibration when coasting
Replies
0
Views
565
simonkukkucaruana
S