Grunger · Mar 23, 2014

Well, after 12 months of minor problems I'm thinking I've hit the fatality.
The heap has been playing up for about 6 months now, pig to start, cutting out on runs and just generally not behaving.
After advice from here I've changed the fuel return valve & fuel filter. Replaced the fuel lines, the white one had a pin hole in, checked & cleaned fuel pump, and had fuel pressure regulator changed.

The FPR job was the only one I had done at a garage and when I collected it, after new oil, she started first touch of the key. I drove home and it started running lumpy, it was going to die on me, I managed to do the few miles home, reversed onto the drive and it died mid roll. Exactly the same as usual but now wont turn over, at all.

I've charged the battery just in case but now when I try and start it the dash lights go out as normal, except the oil light, oops, and the key does nothing. The clock & radio dim and nothing else happens. All lights, central locking work and fuel pump is whirring nicely, everything is functioning but the car wont turn over at all. Any ideas? I'm about ready for getting shut of this and going back to a series.

fanatic · Mar 23, 2014

Jump leads as it sounds flat

Td5 starter repair off ebay 9.99 as contacts burn

Grunger · Mar 23, 2014

Cheers, Fanatic. The battery is fully charged and showing OK, just a bit concerned about the oil light being on. I'll look at the repair kit though.

fanatic · Mar 23, 2014

Also try a lead from battery terminal - to engine casing as you may have a bad earth

What is immobiliser light doing?

Grunger · Mar 23, 2014

Thanks for that, I'll go and check what its doing and try the earth lead.

Grunger · Mar 23, 2014

Tried running a cable to the engine, makes no difference. The immobilizer lights doing what its always done. Flashes when the keys aren't in then goes out when you turn ignition on.

I'm puzzled by this one? Thinking its gonna be expensive.

biolandy · Mar 23, 2014

If you put a big spanner on crank will engine turn?Also if an auto is it in P or D otherwise will not crank over

Grunger · Mar 23, 2014

Its a manual Biolandy, sorry for not saying that.

I'm a bit limited with spanners mate, basic socket sets as if I get too involved it usually ends in tears. I'll search the garage to see if I can cobble something together to try turning the crank.

Also tried the ECU reset and spare keys, still nothing. If I had hair it would be pulled out now. :5bbanghead:

sierrafery · Mar 23, 2014

measure the voltage on the battery while you turn ignition to crank(or the load on the main battery lead with a clamp meter) if the voltage drops hard of there's extreme load it means the engine is mechanicaly stuck or hydrolocked or something... if it will pass this test we'll speak again...also push it forward in gear a bit... if it's only one problem which generates this issue it must be something in this area as IF there was only a starter issue it souldn't have died on you while driving.

Grunger · Mar 23, 2014

Thanks for the help six months back on the FRV problem Sierrafery. Appreciated.

Voltage is showing 12.48v standing & drops to 11.68v when I try starting it.
Tried pushing it but I only managed to rock it, its on a bit of a hill. This all happened after I had the FPR changed at the garage but cant see anything that could have been disturbed.

Seems every time I think I'm in a position to fit fun bits, just priced up a lift kit, I end up spending on just keeping it running. :Cry:

ifloochies · Mar 23, 2014

Grunger said:
Thanks for the help six months back on the FRV problem Sierrafery. Appreciated.

Voltage is showing 12.48v standing & drops to 11.68v when I try starting it.
Tried pushing it but I only managed to rock it, its on a bit of a hill. This all happened after I had the FPR changed at the garage but cant see anything that could have been disturbed.

Seems every time I think I'm in a position to fit fun bits, just priced up a lift kit, I end up spending on just keeping it running. :Cry:

Just take it slow, its really a labour of love trying to get everything right on these vehicles. When you do sort out all the niggles, they are an absolute joy.
As has been said, it would be nice to start off by checking if you could turn the engine over with a socket/bar at the front end of the crank.
That would rule out the engine being seized/locked up for any reason before other factors can be looked into.
All the best mate.

sierrafery · Mar 23, 2014

then there are two issues, one is that the starter doesnt get feed when you try to crank it and the other is that running issue... fix the starter first, check the main lead contact on it and the starter relay cos if the solenoid contacts are gone you should hear a loud click...or there's a problem within the fusebox then it might affect the engine running too

iansoady · Mar 23, 2014

Those voltages look very low to me. And the fact that they drop when you try to start indicates the starter is getting some current at least. I'd probably start by giving the battery a good charge. It should be around 12.7 with no load.

sierrafery · Mar 23, 2014

iansoady said:
Those voltages look very low to me. And the fact that they drop when you try to start indicates the starter is getting some current at least. I'd probably start by giving the battery a good charge. It should be around 12.7 with no load.

that small(0.8V) drop is on the car's wiring and basic electrics... the starter can or can't get voltage, if it gets feed the drop is above 1V if it's spinning easy and if it's spinning hard or it's stuck the drop is much greater

@Grunger, make sure it's not in gear and run a direct wire from battery to the solenoid contact(the small one one which has that spade connector)... when you touch it with a live it must crank or give you a loud click...if not we'll speak then

jamesmartin · Mar 23, 2014

its easier to get a short length of wire and fit a female spade connector to one end fit on solenoid and touch other end on main starter cable nut ,faulty solenoid is a click tight engine or weak starter a clunk

Grunger · Mar 23, 2014

Well Gents, I've been underneath to check out the access to wire the solenoid and found a detached wire. I think / hope. The loom that connects to the new FPR has a split sheath and a white wire about 2mm Ø is not connected to anything. Tried taking a picture but not too clear & my backs wrecked so its game over for today

Study time.

I'm trying to find a pic of the complete connector to see if a white wire is in the mix. Could it be this or is it just an auxiliary thing?

jamesmartin · Mar 23, 2014

is there a wire on the solenoid near the main lead to the starter

Grunger · Mar 23, 2014

I'm struggling to get under the car at the minute James, my backs decided it doesn't want to have any more concrete contact today

Looked as best as I can from above and got a picture which cant help the problem. The loom to the new FPR has got a white, yellow & black wire. The detached wire can be seen at the bottom, hoping its a break. Looked on Microcat and guessing, but does the harness (1) branch from the starter to the FPR?

I'm now going to sulk a bit, get drunk & hope the pixies mend it tonight. Thanks for all the help, really appreciated. :clap2:

Grunger · Mar 24, 2014

Morning Gents.
I'm officially a half-wit. :der:

Been underneath this morning to run a cable from the starter solenoid and when I disconnected the spade it was pretty loose and full of oil. Cleaned it up with WD40 and crimped it a bit more and she's fired up. Result, I was getting really worried about the oil light being permanently on but now its gone out??

I've still got to sort the poor starting and cutting out but to be honest I'm just glad she fires up. Big thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Up to now I've changed NRV, fuel filter, fuel lines, FPR & cleaned the filters in the fuel pump. I'm thinking injector seals next but that will be a garage job I reckon. 6 months ago they were checked and not leaking so unsure whether to bother at this stage. Gonna try and get the ECU off to see if oils tracked down but it had a new harness just before I got the car last January.

Thank you for the advice, I'll keep you posted on the starting / cutting out. Hoping to be sorted in time for the 10th anniversary bash so I can buy you all a beer.

Grunger · Mar 27, 2014

UPDATE.
Never thought but when I took the fuel pump out to clean the filters the seal was attached to the pump, not the tank. Found out on here that this is wrong, took it out again and fitted it to the tank lip and reseated the pump. Started 1st turn last few attempts.

Gonna try and get to work in it tonight so we'll see how it goes. :5bdriving:

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