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badbaz

New Member
Newbie, please be gentle!

Have an N reg Range Rover 4.6

It won't start - turns over and gives the odd fire but won't run.

There is a spark, the plugs have been renewed and still no start and run.

While turning over the dash says things like windows, sunroof and so on.

There are no fault codes.

The keyfob still locks and unlocks the car.

Having read through several threads on here, am I in need of a resync?

Or has anyone any other suggestions to try/check?

Thanks
 
it is a chain for timing, and only does the bottom end. it could slip but would have to be well gone to do so, do you get any poping in the air filter when turning it over?
 
this could be spark stopping and starting, cranck senser cam senser, if its popping in the air filter could be maf. you are going to need to get it pluged in to test book or the likes, to find out..
 
j the range said:
this could be spark stopping and starting, cranck senser cam senser, if its popping in the air filter could be maf. you are going to need to get it pluged in to test book or the likes, to find out..
Click to expand...

Are the cam or crank sensors particularly prone to failure? Can they be measured?
 
badbaz said:
Newbie, please be gentle!

Have an N reg Range Rover 4.6

It won't start - turns over and gives the odd fire but won't run.

There is a spark, the plugs have been renewed and still no start and run.

While turning over the dash says things like windows, sunroof and so on.

There are no fault codes.

The keyfob still locks and unlocks the car.

Having read through several threads on here, am I in need of a resync?

Or has anyone any other suggestions to try/check?

Thanks
Click to expand...

The clue is in the messages "windows, sunroof and so on" Low battery voltage.
Check the battery voltage, it should be 12.5 to 12.8 volts.
 
badbaz said:
Even at full charge I get this? Bad connections somewhere possibly?
Click to expand...
How do you know it's at full charge as you say? Have you put a meter on it? A duff battery will fool some battery chargers into indicating a full charge. If the battery is good, then I would look at the cables from battery to fuse box, the fuse box itself for signs or smell of burning, and the cable to the starter motor also the battery earth connections. The battery cables have been known to corrode away inside the insulation causing a big volt drop.
 
I agree with Datatek my guess is the fuse box is corroded but the leads are prone to corrosion the fuse box corrosion is not easy to see and gives lots of odd messages due to poor feed to becm - check the lot
 
was there ever a solution to this?

I have the same exact problem With my 95 now, same symptoms as described.
i also changed the plugs because the spark was weak, no result, changed the leads and coil pack, stil no result and the symptoms are the same. the car died while i was driving, meaning i drove to the grocery store, parked, and when i came out it started With some abnormal sounds, then i died after driving 60feet or so... i am stumped, i have experience With other cars, not the RR.
my faultmate is dead and on its way for repairs, but i susspect it won't say much either.
Spark and fuel is getting in the cylinder, weak spark.
two plugs show signs of coolant getting in to the cylinder also.
No pressure in coolant system, no oil in coolant, no coolant in oil.

The smartcharger has been sending 8 amps into the battery for a full day, no result.
also the regular coolant leak has developed from the heating Matrix piping, the becm conections might be corroded?

wife is pregnant so it would be Nice to get the car back to working condition ;)
 
You haven't listed the year, so I'll guess.

If it's the gems engine, check your crank sensor. Also check the end of the sensor for flex plate cracks. You can see this if the end of the sensor looks chewed.
 
thank you for a fast reply! It is indeed a GEMS engine and it is 95' it is located in Oslo, Norway.

The CAS/CPS is doing what it is supposed to, at least in my understanding.
It triggers the ignition and the fuel injection, which are both present, wich rules out the CAS/CPS(Right?).
That is also making me wonder, i am assuming that i have not lost compression on more than half of the cylinders all at once, so it should fire, but it isn't.
I am going to Ohm the sensor to se if it is indeed 2000ohms as i am told it should be.

how will a cracked/Broken flexplate keep the engine from starting? Atleast from my understanding after splitting previoucs merc engines i have had, the flexplate has nothing to do with wether or not the engine starts or not. the car won't move with a broken flexplate but that is another problem. i may be wrong here, please inform me.

Also, after posting in this thread i read everything i came across while googling "Range Rover 4.6 wont start"
The check engine light is on so that rules out loss of synch between the ECU and BeCm(right?)
The battery MIGHT be a source, it has had issues and will be changed, but not the likely cause of the problem.
There might be corrosion on som contacts to the BeCm or engine Fusebox, will check this also, but the nature of the Stopping, with no intermittent faults, also makes me think this is unlikly. The coolant leak might have caused the BeCm to fail?
Also found oil leaks on the left bank(Driving Direction) should not make the engine stop.

If someone can explain to me the flexplate issue i might get wiser.
I will also remove the Rockercovers to verify the timing/Cam function.

Thanks in advance
 
:crazy_driver::crazy_driver::crazy_driver:hello , check your M.A.F. out or give it a good clean as per past threads !!!!!!! sounds like it to me me on both vechicles , agree with data eyc on battery ,needs to be fully charged ,, when its fully charged p.m. me and il'l talk you thru the re-sync ,but what is displayed on message centre ????????????? doesn't sound like re-sync problem but hey ho will help if I can cheers mozz :):)
 
If flex plate is cracked ,it can damage the CKPS,which will lead to erratic /intermittent performance.The P38 has no backup mode for CKPS failure,the motor simply stops or sometimes runs erratically/intermittently.
 
a quick video i took coming from work just now.

Range rover MY95 4.6 HSE Wont Start - YouTube

Comments for the video
Gets Gas, spark, in the video the MAF is disconnected and outside the car, battery reads 13.1Volt, after charging for 20 hours at 4 amps. New coil, leads and plugs.
Ticking noise while the engine turns over is what?
Doesn't seem to be compression? i think it turns over to easily?
There is coughing/popping in the exhaust(or at least on the left side of the engine bay)

Oh, yes, the MAF looks fine, no dirt or filth, clean as a whistle. Connectors look fin as well.
 
I would go for compression test myself. Considering what you have changed and finding coolant in the oil and the oil leaks ,you may have head gasket failure / cracked head
 
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