gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
i could have told you that in the beginning,but i just wanted you and wammers to get too know each other.:jaw::faint2::bolt::behindsofa:
glad you got it sorted though bud.
i could have told you that in the beginning,but i just wanted you and wammers to get too know each other.:jaw::faint2::bolt::behindsofa:
glad you got it sorted though bud.
remedave
New Member
i could have told you that in the beginning,but i just wanted you and wammers to get too know each other.:jaw::faint2::bolt::behindsofa:
glad you got it sorted though bud.
Lol yea he's a cool guy patience of a saint !
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
ffs dave don't tell him that,he is an insufferable sod at the best of times.he has enough of a job getting his big head out of the door as it is.
ello tony.
ffs dave don't tell him that,he is an insufferable sod at the best of times.he has enough of a job getting his big head out of the door as it is.
ello tony.
Hello John. Surprised you didn't recommend 3 in 1.
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
Hello John. Surprised you didn't recommend 3 in 1.
your loss not mine,i told another person about using that,they said what a difference it has made,engine picks up cleaner and better throttle response,so shove that up yer bum.
remedave
New Member
Just a quick one as these are my first pair of range rovers I am pre 98 landrover guy excluding the early p38s one of them drives a bit well sloppy as if there is play in the steering but there is none it seem lose almost like the power steering is so light it's dangerous and the whole truck seams like a wobbly air bed ! any usual suspects ?
I have already changed the track rod as the ball joints were shot but still not right there is no further play in any other joints or bushes front or rear.
I have already changed the track rod as the ball joints were shot but still not right there is no further play in any other joints or bushes front or rear.
eightinavee
Well-Known Member
So running closed loop and all the dieseling gone ? Performance and fuel consumption good ?
Should improve as the ecu relearns everything.
your loss not mine,i told another person about using that,they said what a difference it has made,engine picks up cleaner and better throttle response,so shove that up yer bum.
To thin for dashpots.
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
To thin for dashpots.
no you are wrong wammers,i have used it for years,others i have talked to used it as well.Marsh & Jeffrys carb and fuel injection specialist recommended it as well,so i will take theirs and my own experience of using it,over your says so.
no you are wrong wammers,i have used it for years,others i have talked to used it as well.Marsh & Jeffrys carb and fuel injection specialist recommended it as well,so i will take theirs and my own experience of using it,over your says so.
Done a lot of engine tuning have you? I have and it's to thin. Opening the dashpot to quickly gives all sorts of mixture related problems.
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
i have done my share,you?it does not open the dash pot to quickly.i bet you have never used it have you.each to their own,but you are not right on everything you know.dont forget that is why they have springs in them to stop dash pot float.
I used to tune engines for rally cars. Yes and the springs have different strengths depending what colour code they are. It takes a long time to set a carb up properly just sticking **** thin oil in is not the way to go without also adjusting the jetting. For road use engine oil is as good as anything.
gemsdad
NOT BOTHERED.
so we have both tuned rally car engines then,i know full well that just putting **** thin oil in is not the be all and end all of tuning variable jet carbs.i know all about spring types,needle sizes etc etc.but just because you did it using one type of oil does not mean using other types can not work just as good if not better thank thick engine oil.if i can set up triple 1 1/2 inch su's on an aquaplane manifold then i can set up most.admittedly i did send them to a carb specialist to get them rolling road tuned as i did not have one myself.
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remedave
New Member
Yep I reset the values with nano com it drive very well now and sounds great again
eightinavee
Well-Known Member
Bill, you are right,had to blow it up 10x !!! Then I could see its a Gems sprocket - that was the 340 code,not the slack chain....
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remedave
New Member
Kerchief it was spotted but why ? Oh the chain was slack too but the sprocket was the problem, but why the hell was it there ? As I said I think this engine has had a cam in or a rebuild as it's not rattley on the tapers at all especially for 160k
It looks like a thor block it had 4.6 stamped into the Conrods the knock sensors on each bank the correct thor flywheel and thor sump it also not got the extra row of head bolts and the engine number tallys but it has got silver rocker covers ?
remedave
New Member
What's up can't be all that bad ! I thought I had blowed the head when I put it back together it took me 20 mins to bleed the sod was like a flippen pressure cooker I used nano com to drop the rear suspension and it then burped and all was fine
eightinavee
Well-Known Member
What's up can't be all that bad ! I thought I had blowed the head when I put it back together it took me 20 mins to bleed the sod was like a flippen pressure cooker I used nano com to drop the rear suspension and it then burped and all was fine
Well after a very long day and plenty of Merlot.... I'm too ****ed to think properly - except to say that your cam sensor would clearly have read a different pattern to your "known good" car,so the fault should have been obvious then.
Take it easy on Sassanach, his car has a very elusive fault that has had many hours of checking and testing done,with no clear answer coming forward as yet.
