car is year 2000 4.6 thor engine. Whilst driving on country lane and going round a bend and and starting an incline the engine just stopped. Checked the fuses nothing, opened the fuel filler cap and bashed the fuel tank but still won't start. Tried many times with gearbox fault on the dash + engine imobiliser light. Then the worst thing in the world happened and a friend came round the corner and stopped. I was very close to the bend in the road so he gave me a pull for fifty feet to safety with his little nissan 4x4 - now the bad bit - he had the cheek to photograph me being pulled up the hill with his Nissan (he had a massive grin on as well!). Dash it !! he is in our 4x4 club and there is an off road event tomorrow and I know it will be the conversation piece!!!!!! Ahhhhhhhh.

After an hour and after lots of attempts to start she did and I was able to go about three miles and she cut out again. When trying to start she spins over very fast.

Anyway any ideas, I think fuel pump but could be other - come on experts!

Had the same problem. Intake manifold gasket was split.
If you have a bad restart, that's worth checking.
Waterdude has a brilliant how-to thread (search his posts).

Thanks Reeki. Work recently done (last week) was removal of the upper plenum, removal of the injector rail, flow test and ultrasonic clean of all injectors with new filters, seals and re flow test etc. Replace both coil packs. New gaskets all round and a new set of spark plugs. When all off did a compression test - all good.
Supose it could be fuel pump or a sensor such as ECU Temp sensor even. Will try the fuel rail pressure tomorrow if the wild storm we have over here goes away (even the ferry was cancelled!).
Your idea of a split gasket is a good one, sons VW Golf did that too. So I won't rule it out and will add it to the snag list as a possibility. I have done a few days of hard driving over the last week after all. Thanks.

stopover said:

car is year 2000 4.6 thor engine. Whilst driving on country lane and going round a bend and and starting an incline the engine just stopped. Checked the fuses nothing, opened the fuel filler cap and bashed the fuel tank but still won't start. Tried many times with gearbox fault on the dash + engine imobiliser light. Then the worst thing in the world happened and a friend came round the corner and stopped. I was very close to the bend in the road so he gave me a pull for fifty feet to safety with his little nissan 4x4 - now the bad bit - he had the cheek to photograph me being pulled up the hill with his Nissan (he had a massive grin on as well!). Dash it !! he is in our 4x4 club and there is an off road event tomorrow and I know it will be the conversation piece!!!!!! Ahhhhhhhh.

After an hour and after lots of attempts to start she did and I was able to go about three miles and she cut out again. When trying to start she spins over very fast.

Anyway any ideas, I think fuel pump but could be other - come on experts!

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Gearbox fault on the cash is a common indication of low voltage to the ECU's, I'd check the underbonnet fuse box and the alternator output

Put T4 Testbook on which gave 'Reference Mark Detector Fault (Reluctor Wheel) P0335 - Drive cycle A'

Replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Engine Temperature sensor and car runs fine now. Replacing the Crankshaft position sensor itself was easy BUT getting the multiplug off of the engine loom was not easy at all, what a stupid place to put it up on the block behing some oil coolant pipes. Not only that but the engine coolant sensor was a pain too as the engine is Thor the alternator had to be moved out of the way and there was nearly not enough wire in the plug to get it back on - again in a very difficult position. Next gripe is again due to the engine being a Thor. The schrader valve on the fuel line is behing the plemum just above and inline with the left hand coil pack at the back of the engine what a stupid place to put it! On my dads 96 p38 its easy to get at!! at least car is running ok.
Next is the fuel pump with its integrated fuel filter (prefer external ones) and integral pressure regulator (like those external as well in fact I prefer outside fuel pumps. Have made an inspection hatch (third one now) and have a view of the pump. On this car its a non return unit and looks similar to the earlier units exept it appears to have a metal retaining ring that is heavily corroded? why didn't they continue with the earlier plastic ? will post some pics when I get the pump and do the changeover