ukadamwest · Apr 22, 2019

Update..

The dealers I bought the 4.2 from had their exhaust people replace the straight through.. however the twunt mechanic aside from smashing the passenger mirror backing it off the ramp broke off a manifold stud on each side. I had a garage pull them for me. don't have heat and it's a ball ache doing it on the drive...

The garage gave me a delay on replacing the mirror so filed a small claims against them, they called up apologised profusely and paid up.

LPG had a slight leak from a filter, tightened up and all good. rear off side light cluster replaced as the old one kept filling with water and the plastic silver coasting had peeled away inside, various missing or broken trim clips replaced.

Went to the tip to drop off some garden rubbish and smacked the antenna on the height bar so it's fractured

Gave it a machine polish as well.. finally..

Comes up good.

Henry_b · Apr 22, 2019

Looking mint Adam..

Shame about the ****s messing you around..

ukadamwest · Apr 22, 2019

Henry_b said:
Looking mint Adam..

Shame about the ****s messing you around..

thanks henry, just a couple of bits still to sort.. parking sensors and some surface rust in the offside rear door wheelarch I may well get that done rather than do it myself. i'll see how it goes... after doing the SC I thought I would machine polish the cayenne too. came up just as good. the wife's MX5 to do next weekend its needed it for a long time so looking forward to doing that. got a bit more done on the P38 Front Cover as well. painting an oak bed in the garage so soon i'll have the garage back and can probably get started on the Suffix A or CSK soonish !

the twunts on the garage just annoying really and nearly soured a good transaction !

Henry_b · Apr 22, 2019

Sounds good Adam.

Can't wait to see the progress!!

ukadamwest · Apr 22, 2019

meanwhile.....

ive been looking at ECU mapping for the SC but don't know how that would go with LPG.

and an underpulley too !

Henry_b · Apr 22, 2019

The Pulley will perk her up a bit,

ukadamwest · May 13, 2019

L322 had its first MOT under my stewardship last week, with some advisories

rear subframe mounting bushes
Nearside front outer cv gaiter
rear brake pads
rear suspension arm bushes

all fairly mundane stuff ! i'll probably have an indy quote on the CV gaiter. and the subframe bushes

as for the brakes, I think the course will be a set of new discs and pads all round.. the current discs are starting to lip so it will be next year for those anyway

Grrrrrr · May 14, 2019

ukadamwest said:
when I went to look at the 4.2 and took it for a spin it had rude boy exhaust on it. fruity sounding wasn't the word, it had the silencers removed centre and rear, straight though.

the dealer agreed to change it for a normal exhaust.

its lasted 2 months..

today I noticed a whiff of exhaust fumes from the cabin air so after work suit off fed the little one and then slid underneath, flashlight in hand. on each downpipe the effing clowns have snapped a downpipe stud off and only one stud in place on each side, but packed out with 'sealant' so as the replacement O2 sensors arrived today I've just order a set of new downpipe studs and bolts and it looks like i'll be dropping the exhaust down at the weekend and putting new OEM studs in. what a bunch of twunts .. I mean really ! this is why I do my own spannering as I don't trust garages to do something without making a hash of it.. as ever it will take a bit of time to uncover the jobs that need doing and get it properly sorted I also noticed a fair amount welding wire attached to one join of the center box so while its off, I'll investigate why there's welding wire sticking onto it, clean it off and re weld

looks like i'll be spending the weekend on my back getting dirty

You and me both. There don't seem to be any professionals left

Leak will be why the O2 sensors we're off.

ukadamwest · Aug 10, 2019

after my not so pleasant journey home last week, when the waterpump went, I got to doing it today and other bits..

Mechanical Water Pump
Electric Water Pump
Thermostat
New Idler Pulley
New bonnet release cables (all three)
New Bulkhead to condenser pipe
new temp sensor

Cross Drilled and Vented disks with new Brembo Pads with new pins, sliders and of course pad sensors ( I did 1 of the 3, the other three tomorrow as bad light stopped play)

working on the 4.2 wasn't too bad at all. after removing the various pipes at the top and the viscous fan and shroud together its fairly accessible everything came apart well and went back together easily. there was minimal coolant drop from the work, probably nor more a half litre.

started her up let the t-stat open, bled out the air let her cool off, checked the level a little top up, about a half a mug full and the needle is bang in the middle.

The water pump impeller wasn't broken up and not loose on the shaft, however I wonder id thermal expansion made is slip when hot, or it was the electric pump. I decided to change both as, as usual, 'while I'm in there' ! along with the t stat and temp sensor. the biggest problem was getting the viscous fan back on the thread there's not a lot of room with the shroud in place and not a lot of ability to spin it on. not a like the P38 !

the bulkhead to condesor pipe was a breeze, with the scuttle panel removed and the filter box slid out, bags of room !

ukadamwest · Aug 11, 2019

A couple of points..

Bleeding the coolant system took a little time. After opening the bleed screw on the expansion tank and bleeding out tbe air it was time to put the heater on max and let it idle.. took about 10 min for the air to start blowing warm. with a few fast idler at 2-2,500 rpm continually opening te bleed screw to let air out and as the bleed section of the expansion starts to fill tighten up the bleed screw and repeat. took about 20 min to bleed all the air out. Let it cool then check the level again.

The tick over was a tad inconsistent with some hunting till warmed up, also a random grumble and stop. Then random grumble again. hence why I bought bed idler pulleys.

It now idler with no hunting no random grumbling and sounds sweet and smooth.

The cross drilled and vented discs are great it stops well, no weight pull you can really feel when they start to bite.

Next up... the wheel arch scabs so back to book it in for paint and then a new rear box which is sitting in the garage ready

Wazzajnr · Aug 12, 2019

Trigger's broom!!

TimoTS · Feb 22, 2020

[GALLERY=][GALLERY=][GALLERY=][GALLERY=][GALLERY=][GALLERY=][/GALLERY][/GALLERY][/GALLERY][/GALLERY][/GALLERY][/GALLERY]

ukadamwest said:
Cheers dave.

There wasn't much point doing a write up.. three 27 torx bolts and two plugs.

Went to pick little one up from nursery took the long way round stuck my toe down... good grief it shifts!

ukadamwest said:
Got the reverse camera sorted out today.

Purchase off the bay of e an 18mm bullet camera having taken the old camera housing apart and measured the mounting tube. 18mm exactly. the camera was a princely sum of £9.74. Obviously, one of those rare occasions when something fails on a RR I could have taken it to dealer or an indi to have the work done. The OEM camera is more than £500 plus VAT plus fitting and is fairly low resolution. new cams are mass produced in huge numbers at higher resolution than 12 years ago. a PAL cam is needed.
Having taken the spoiler off, cleared out the old camera gubbins and cut the camera lead with sufficient length the allow OEM connection to the car side connectors. I'm not a big fan of cutting into OEM wiring.

All done there, cut the bullet cam cable mid way between the cam and the cable blister and pass the cam through the poem cable route. and solder the cables back together having slid the OEM grommet seal on. Like so..

View attachment 170109

View attachment 170111
I used heat shrink over the solder joints and then heat shrunk over that
View attachment 170112
Now time to offer the spoiler back up having passed the wires through the OEM holes and refitted the cable seals.

Now the wiring...

Camera comes with two cables one for power a simple black and red. and the other a male to male video lead with a break out red wire.

The original cabling has the video lead, a common in the shield and a white signal inside the shield. The OEM power is black and red. simple enough for the power.. black and red to black and red on the OEM cable retained from earlier.

The new camera cable has red black and yellow...The yellow is the video feed black to common in the shield. and red.. wasn't sure about and if this was needed to breakout to the red on the video cable. I tried without first and before heat shrinking and lo. it worked.

So what we need is the yellow to white and black to shield.. like this...
View attachment 170113

View attachment 170114
So my link cable looks like this
View attachment 170117
In close up...
View attachment 170118

Fabric taped and in place.. The connectors also got a wrap of fabric tape to prevent any annoying rattling..
View attachment 170119
Now everything back together and the need for another person to get the camera lined up. The Mrs sat in the seat timing me when vertical was mad which I marked with a pencil on the bullet cam.

All back together.. better quality can and with reversing bars. total cost £9.74.

View attachment 170120

i have a problem, when i connect the camera the image has a big black line trough it, and is very bad quality, i already got send a new one and had the exact same, so it must be something in the wires, but i cant find it

ukadamwest said:
Got the reverse camera sorted out today.

Purchase off the bay of e an 18mm bullet camera having taken the old camera housing apart and measured the mounting tube. 18mm exactly. the camera was a princely sum of £9.74. Obviously, one of those rare occasions when something fails on a RR I could have taken it to dealer or an indi to have the work done. The OEM camera is more than £500 plus VAT plus fitting and is fairly low resolution. new cams are mass produced in huge numbers at higher resolution than 12 years ago. a PAL cam is needed.
Having taken the spoiler off, cleared out the old camera gubbins and cut the camera lead with sufficient length the allow OEM connection to the car side connectors. I'm not a big fan of cutting into OEM wiring.

All done there, cut the bullet cam cable mid way between the cam and the cable blister and pass the cam through the poem cable route. and solder the cables back together having slid the OEM grommet seal on. Like so..

View attachment 170109

View attachment 170111
I used heat shrink over the solder joints and then heat shrunk over that
View attachment 170112
Now time to offer the spoiler back up having passed the wires through the OEM holes and refitted the cable seals.

Now the wiring...

Camera comes with two cables one for power a simple black and red. and the other a male to male video lead with a break out red wire.

The original cabling has the video lead, a common in the shield and a white signal inside the shield. The OEM power is black and red. simple enough for the power.. black and red to black and red on the OEM cable retained from earlier.

The new camera cable has red black and yellow...The yellow is the video feed black to common in the shield. and red.. wasn't sure about and if this was needed to breakout to the red on the video cable. I tried without first and before heat shrinking and lo. it worked.

So what we need is the yellow to white and black to shield.. like this...
View attachment 170113

View attachment 170114
So my link cable looks like this
View attachment 170117
In close up...
View attachment 170118

Fabric taped and in place.. The connectors also got a wrap of fabric tape to prevent any annoying rattling..
View attachment 170119
Now everything back together and the need for another person to get the camera lined up. The Mrs sat in the seat timing me when vertical was mad which I marked with a pencil on the bullet cam.

All back together.. better quality can and with reversing bars. total cost £9.74.

View attachment 170120

can you help me? My image is very bad and has a black line in it, I got a replacement camera but that had the exact same so it must be in the wires

biketeacherdave · Feb 22, 2020

You need to check your camera setting or camera to see if its switched to ntsc

isamyku · Jan 10, 2024

Reading through the thread is a pleasure - nice to see you have done so many things and wrote about them in detail @ukadamwest.

Just wondering if there are some more things you came across to note as I've seen its been a while since someone wrote here.

doriz · Jan 11, 2024

ukadamwest said:
Update..

The dealers I bought the 4.2 from had their exhaust people replace the straight through.. however the twunt mechanic aside from smashing the passenger mirror backing it off the ramp broke off a manifold stud on each side. I had a garage pull them for me. don't have heat and it's a ball ache doing it on the drive...

The garage gave me a delay on replacing the mirror so filed a small claims against them, they called up apologised profusely and paid up.

LPG had a slight leak from a filter, tightened up and all good. rear off side light cluster replaced as the old one kept filling with water and the plastic silver coasting had peeled away inside, various missing or broken trim clips replaced.

Went to the tip to drop off some garden rubbish and smacked the antenna on the height bar so it's fractured

Gave it a machine polish as well.. finally..

Comes up good.

View attachment 176196

She’s a beaut

ukadamwest

Well-Known Member

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Henry_b

Think outside, no box required.

ukadamwest

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Henry_b

Think outside, no box required.

ukadamwest

Well-Known Member

Henry_b

Think outside, no box required.

ukadamwest

Well-Known Member

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

ukadamwest

Well-Known Member

ukadamwest

Well-Known Member

Wazzajnr

Well-Known Member

TimoTS

Active Member

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biketeacherdave

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isamyku

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doriz

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