Just replaced front wheel bearing and knuckle joint on disco 2 no faults before new one fitted test

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William Leeman

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Have just changed the front CV and wheel bearing britpart. Drove1/2 mile 3 lights came on. Replaced sensor with old one traction control now comes on.
Should I try one more new sensor or send wheel bearing back?
 
tilly2 said:
Are there the same number of teeth on the new hub ?
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Many thanks for reply that was a good response didn't think of that.
However replaced the sensor with a new one I had in the garage put it all back together and bingo it worked. Had a major problem getting the lynx to communicate with the car. But managed to reset the lights. I will solder a new OBD plug into the wires and see if it's a plug issue.
Many thanks for your reply. It was a good idea. I was thinking of buying another wheel bearing
 
I can't take any credit... it was a Sierafery reply that I know he has advised many people..

Having had TC issues on many vehicles other than LR I know if the ECU can't see similar revolution counts it they throw up ussues.
 
Bloody lights on again but can't get lynx to communicate. Tried rewiring a new plug into OBD2 still the same. Tried my mates diagnostic tool at his garage still no communication. Does anyone know where the communication wire goes to in the emu. I guess it comes from there. I will run a new wire direct to OBD2 plug. Any one know which pin to hot wire a plug.
 
Thanks for the info I will try this weekend to try and work my way through it. I really appreciate your help. It gets a bit difficult trying to work through the nightmare. I'll let you know how I get on. Again great big thanks
 
Checked out the BCU wire and it seems good very low resistance. Had a spare BCU but when I tried to connect it the horn blows recon it needs reprogramming. Not sure if the lynx could do that. The unit did allow me to erase codes. So light off.
The resistance to the emu was a bit higher so not sure if this wire is causing the problem any suggestions to keep going on the wires till I find a definite fault I guess
 
OK, did you disconnect the battery before the BCU swap ? you should know that the battery must be disconnected then after reconnectin ignition on 2 for 5 minutes, if you didnt do that you might have immobilised it
 
Yes disconnected battery it was as soon as I connected the battery negative horn sounded so I changed the unit to the old one. With the old unit in the battery connected start lynx Go through the settings and it reads so go into abs and erase codes. It did it before loosing communication. So currently I have no fault lights but can't fully enter lynx into the system. Looking through the rave books. Am I correct in thinking all the pink wires go to a connector just under the heater. Just a thought. I could test wires from here.
 
I went to AP Diagnostic and he has many commercial readers but we could not get his unit to communicate with the poor old Landy. So a bit stuck till I can get it to talk.
Thanks for your help so far. It's a bit out of my league at the moment.. don't want to spend loads on an old car. Could cost more than it's worth. It runs pretty good and think it may have a couple of years left in her
 
Will try again from the header wrote down all the connections will test again. If all the wires are good then I'll see if I think it was turner engineering I will recheck and ask if the can test the BCU.
My Landy is the basic so no sunroofs no auto no air suspension so some of the boxes not fitted so hopefully should have not to many boxes connected to the k line.
If that is all ok I'll get a garage to confirm its talking.
I think I'm getting my head round the wiring with your help.
I'll keep u posted
 
IMO the replacement BCU which you had was removed from an immobilised vehicle hence the horn thing so that test didnt help you to rule out anything, better find a known good one
 
Also let alone thet header joint as long as you have continuity between the OBD port and BCU on the K-line
 
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