flat
Well-Known Member
No me neither, I have the genuine one mentioned above
No me neither, I have the genuine one mentioned above
Huddy84
Well-Known Member
First MOT booked for Friday and weekend before I go to start it and I get dim lights on dash followed by smoke from the steering column.
After a panic to grab a fire extinguisher and disconnect the battery i traced it to a short where the feed wire meets the first glow plug, the stub of the eyelet was touching the block...
Works now but need to replace the molten wires pretty soon. :-(
After a panic to grab a fire extinguisher and disconnect the battery i traced it to a short where the feed wire meets the first glow plug, the stub of the eyelet was touching the block...
Works now but need to replace the molten wires pretty soon. :-(
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Huddy84
Well-Known Member
Been a while since I've updated this thread. Still have plenty of fettling to do with the landy but since the engine re-build things have been running well. I am due shortly the 'running in' service and also adjust the infection pump timing and tappets again. I also need to drop and reseal the sump as it has a slight leak.
My latest issue is lack of electricity. A while back i bought a new, bigger battery as I kept having to jump-start after a week being left on the drive. I've now found the new battery is doing the same but not quite as bad as being bigger it lasts a bit longer. One morning I took the landy to work with a volt meter in the accesory socket, and with the lights and heater on it was running at 11.8v! With all electrics off it was managing 13v at best. Knowing it was probably full of crud I whipped it out for a clean.
Its a Lucas A127 45amp alternator so nothing special, except for the dirt it seems in fairly good order.
And when I pulled the brush pack out more dirt, and the brushes were retracted. One of them took a gentle touch to spring out just before taking the pic.
I gave it a once over with engine degreaser then pressure washed it off. Decided whilst it was open to replace the rectifier, it was less than £10 I think and easy enough to do. It was a job for the wife (help her feel involved with the landy
) de-soldered and removed the old one, crimped the new one on the wires and re-soldered.
Next I took the oppertunity to tidy it up with a coat of duck-egg blue. You'll see I didn't fully strip it down, I couldn't get the front nut undone but the bearings seem fine so I left it be.
Bolted it all back together and fitted a new brush pack/regulator (Again around £10 from e-bay). I've given a slightly different one a try, Its intended for this alternator but has an extra little red wire to monitor the battery to prevent overcharging. Apparently a 200 ohm resistor is needed with the feed directly to the battery positive terminal. I think this regulator maintains the voltage more consistently at the higher end of the range which is why it's needed.
Looks much tidier than when I started. This weekend I will paint the front face and fan just to make them look good, then re-fit it and hope it works.
The main reason I did this myself is the cost saving and apparently the quality of reconditioned alternators can vary, it prove very simple to do myself.
My latest issue is lack of electricity. A while back i bought a new, bigger battery as I kept having to jump-start after a week being left on the drive. I've now found the new battery is doing the same but not quite as bad as being bigger it lasts a bit longer. One morning I took the landy to work with a volt meter in the accesory socket, and with the lights and heater on it was running at 11.8v! With all electrics off it was managing 13v at best. Knowing it was probably full of crud I whipped it out for a clean.
Its a Lucas A127 45amp alternator so nothing special, except for the dirt it seems in fairly good order.
And when I pulled the brush pack out more dirt, and the brushes were retracted. One of them took a gentle touch to spring out just before taking the pic.
I gave it a once over with engine degreaser then pressure washed it off. Decided whilst it was open to replace the rectifier, it was less than £10 I think and easy enough to do. It was a job for the wife (help her feel involved with the landy
) de-soldered and removed the old one, crimped the new one on the wires and re-soldered.Next I took the oppertunity to tidy it up with a coat of duck-egg blue. You'll see I didn't fully strip it down, I couldn't get the front nut undone but the bearings seem fine so I left it be.
Bolted it all back together and fitted a new brush pack/regulator (Again around £10 from e-bay). I've given a slightly different one a try, Its intended for this alternator but has an extra little red wire to monitor the battery to prevent overcharging. Apparently a 200 ohm resistor is needed with the feed directly to the battery positive terminal. I think this regulator maintains the voltage more consistently at the higher end of the range which is why it's needed.
Looks much tidier than when I started. This weekend I will paint the front face and fan just to make them look good, then re-fit it and hope it works.
The main reason I did this myself is the cost saving and apparently the quality of reconditioned alternators can vary, it prove very simple to do myself.
Attachments
Huddy84
Well-Known Member
How'd you manage that, lol.
Alternator on today and works! Running better voltage and hopefully it'll stabilise at the higher end once it's run in a bit. Got up to 13.9v when I revved the engine.
Once it's had its service I'm going to have to look at the near side swivel as its oil weep is getting worse.
Alternator on today and works! Running better voltage and hopefully it'll stabilise at the higher end once it's run in a bit. Got up to 13.9v when I revved the engine.
Once it's had its service I'm going to have to look at the near side swivel as its oil weep is getting worse.
Huddy84
Well-Known Member
The alternator is running well, sticks much closer to 14V now I've ran it about a bit.
My other concern has been the engine has been getting noisier. I'm due the running in service so today I was permitted a few hours on the landy.
Checked tappets and all but 1 were a tad on the tight side so fixed that. I also swapped the rubber seal on the cap as this had been leaking. Finally I put the missing engine mount bolt in although it didn't quite go fully home. Unfortunately after another run I still seem to get this dribble but it's much smoother again.
I do have plans to replace the two hoses for new as I think they are buggared and I'm hoping this will solve it.....
Next time I need to do oil change and remove and reseal the sump as it is leaking oil slightly. I also think the injection pump timing still needs tweaking as i don't think I'm quite as rapid as before. Pump has been reconditioned so I'm only rotating it on the backplate for adjustment.
My other concern has been the engine has been getting noisier. I'm due the running in service so today I was permitted a few hours on the landy.
Checked tappets and all but 1 were a tad on the tight side so fixed that. I also swapped the rubber seal on the cap as this had been leaking. Finally I put the missing engine mount bolt in although it didn't quite go fully home. Unfortunately after another run I still seem to get this dribble but it's much smoother again.
I do have plans to replace the two hoses for new as I think they are buggared and I'm hoping this will solve it.....
Next time I need to do oil change and remove and reseal the sump as it is leaking oil slightly. I also think the injection pump timing still needs tweaking as i don't think I'm quite as rapid as before. Pump has been reconditioned so I'm only rotating it on the backplate for adjustment.
Attachments
twinter82
Active Member
Nice looking landy!
Mine manages 12.5v at the moment, so I was thinking about replacing it, and interested in what you did to refurb yours. Did the elements that you replaced fail a test, or is it just standard practice to replace those parts when refurbishing?
Mine manages 12.5v at the moment, so I was thinking about replacing it, and interested in what you did to refurb yours. Did the elements that you replaced fail a test, or is it just standard practice to replace those parts when refurbishing?
Huddy84
Well-Known Member
Been a long time since I've posted any progress but I have been busy. Since putting in the e-built short engine, I've done the cylinder head a few times and now fitted one that's been refurbed by a workshop. Still has a dribble of oil from the filler cap but this must just be a quirk. To save having to wait for the original head to be done I ended up buying another NA engine so this is serving as spare parts. The bores in this one look pretty good so when the time comes it should just need a clean up and I can press it into service.
I've also passed another MOT with flying colours. I took the lazy option here and got the garage to give the rear brakes a clean out, and fit a new rear diff pinion seal. You can also see where I have painted a few panels whilst they were off during the engine rebuild, at some point I will paint the rest.
I have also fitted the standard steering guard for a bit of added protection. Like others I had to grind the Jate rings for them to fit as-well. I wanted to keep them as they are handy for recovery but also look good.
Note the numerous oil drips showing it's territory is well marked.
Most recently I have had the transfer box out to swap from a 1.66 unit to a 1.41. Despite changing the seals I have a medium leak from the front output shaft and a small one from both the input shaft and PTO cover. I have bought genuine seals now to replace these with but I'll wait till the cold snap is over. Driving has much improved as I can rev longer in the gears before changing up. Obviously slightly down on uphill power, especially from cold, but I had a bash on the dual carriageway today and it was very comfortable bobbing along at 60 with more to give.
Today I've been replacing the front exhaust mount but failed. The exhaust was resting on the cross member meaning it rattled at idle. I have a new bracket installed under the gearbox mount, and the clamp on the exhaust. But the holes don't line up.
I suspect it's because this bracket is designed for the newer hangers, not the older clamps. I'm not too sure what to do but I feel compelled to invest in a welder and extend the chassis mount to the right place as I can't find anywhere that sells the older part. For now i have put some stainless steel wire round it to lift the exhaust up a bit. Finally much quieter!
I still have plenty to get done, none of which is critically important;
1) Fix exhaust mount properly and replace others
2) Refurb swivel seals as they are leaking
3) Replace front output seal in T-box
4) Consider replacing input seal between boxes
5) Finish cleaning off and painting chassis
6) Refurb doors including weld up holes in frame, new seals on windows and re-paint.
7) At some point sand back and re-paint rest of the body.
8) Get chassis waxoiled
Aren't Landy's fun
I've also passed another MOT with flying colours. I took the lazy option here and got the garage to give the rear brakes a clean out, and fit a new rear diff pinion seal. You can also see where I have painted a few panels whilst they were off during the engine rebuild, at some point I will paint the rest.
I have also fitted the standard steering guard for a bit of added protection. Like others I had to grind the Jate rings for them to fit as-well. I wanted to keep them as they are handy for recovery but also look good.
Note the numerous oil drips showing it's territory is well marked.
Most recently I have had the transfer box out to swap from a 1.66 unit to a 1.41. Despite changing the seals I have a medium leak from the front output shaft and a small one from both the input shaft and PTO cover. I have bought genuine seals now to replace these with but I'll wait till the cold snap is over. Driving has much improved as I can rev longer in the gears before changing up. Obviously slightly down on uphill power, especially from cold, but I had a bash on the dual carriageway today and it was very comfortable bobbing along at 60 with more to give.
Today I've been replacing the front exhaust mount but failed. The exhaust was resting on the cross member meaning it rattled at idle. I have a new bracket installed under the gearbox mount, and the clamp on the exhaust. But the holes don't line up.
I suspect it's because this bracket is designed for the newer hangers, not the older clamps. I'm not too sure what to do but I feel compelled to invest in a welder and extend the chassis mount to the right place as I can't find anywhere that sells the older part. For now i have put some stainless steel wire round it to lift the exhaust up a bit. Finally much quieter!
I still have plenty to get done, none of which is critically important;
1) Fix exhaust mount properly and replace others
2) Refurb swivel seals as they are leaking
3) Replace front output seal in T-box
4) Consider replacing input seal between boxes
5) Finish cleaning off and painting chassis
6) Refurb doors including weld up holes in frame, new seals on windows and re-paint.
7) At some point sand back and re-paint rest of the body.
8) Get chassis waxoiled
Aren't Landy's fun
Attachments
Huddy84
Well-Known Member
My middle exhaust mount was split in the middle so I have ordered the correct replacement parts. What came off looked like a bit of a bodge with some 0.5mm steel doubled over and bent into an angle which was the split part.
I have fitted the new mount (ESR169) but as you can see in the pics the hole in the bracket doesn't align with the clamp on the exhaust.
Have I done something wrong or should I cut and extend the hole to the correct position on the bracket ESR169? Its all standard military na as far as i know.
I have fitted the new mount (ESR169) but as you can see in the pics the hole in the bracket doesn't align with the clamp on the exhaust.
Have I done something wrong or should I cut and extend the hole to the correct position on the bracket ESR169? Its all standard military na as far as i know.
