I think yu will find that without a fan - it just gets up to "normal" - as for being paranoid - aint all landy owners?
I think yu will find that without a fan - it just gets up to "normal" - as for being paranoid - aint all landy owners?
fishsponge
New Member
ok... i guess that doesn't sound too bad.
So... what are the advantages to removing the fan, and how amazing are they?
is it quieter, and if so, by how much?
do you get better MPG, and if so, by how much?
etc...
So... what are the advantages to removing the fan, and how amazing are they?
is it quieter, and if so, by how much?
do you get better MPG, and if so, by how much?
etc...
the main advantage is the coolant actually gets up to "normal" and the heater works when yu want to - as for more power and MPG - bugger all - maybe 2-4% if yu are lucky.
but it does reduce spraying ****ty muddy water all over yo engine bay.
but it does reduce spraying ****ty muddy water all over yo engine bay.
fishsponge
New Member
OK, so MPG is negligable. That's fine.
As for not spraying mud over the engine bay, that's an advantage I guess, although the mud hasn't really bothered me yet (maybe because there's not been too much yet!).
And as for the coolant reaching "normal" temperature, mine seems to within a mile or two anyway, regardless of outside temperature. When I say normal, I mean the needle is just above the 8 o'clock position (i.e. just below horizontal).
I also have heated seats, and after a mile or two, once the engine has warmed up, the fans work perfectly!
Even when it was minus 8, I can cope with just a work shirt on etc... for a mile or two while it warms up!
the only thing i can really suggest is try it, watch the temp like a hawk, and see what you think.
fishsponge
New Member
fair point!
and i guess i ought to take a route to work which will allow me to pull over if necessary too - pulling onto the motorway for my test run will be far from ideal, although the airflow through the front should be fine anyway.
So, overall, the only advantages to removing the fan are not spraying mud everywhere and allowing the engine to reach temperature faster (or at all)!
Worth knowing!
So, my task for the weekend is to remove the fan, pull it out through the gap at the top of the cowling once i've removed the small clip-on cowling top, and then adjust the clearances!
Well... actually I ought to get the wheel bearings and corroded swivel ball done first, perhaps, but that's a whole separate discussion!
i think yu are being too paranoic, but yu wont learn unless yu try
fishsponge
New Member
yeah, I know - you certainly can't learn by reading a book! I know that because I got a degree in the subject/area I now work in, and i've not used any of it in my job!! lol
My success rate, as a novice mechanic with almost no tools is around 50% so far.
Cleaning the intercooler - success.
Removing EGR - partial success (someone else had to loosen the bolts on the manifold).
Renewing trailing arm bushes - failure (had to get someone else to do it - couldn't undo bolts again).
Adjusting/replacing wheel bearings - failure (not enough tools or confidence!)
Penny trick - success.
Electric window ECU soldering - success.
Front brake pads - failure (no time).
Prop shaft UJ - failure (couldn't undo bolts).
It's funny... the failures are soooo demeaning, but the successes are great!!!!!
overall, i'm happy, learning lots and having a great time driving the disco, and a 50/50 success rate isn't too bad, I don't think, for someone in my position...
My success rate, as a novice mechanic with almost no tools is around 50% so far.
Cleaning the intercooler - success.
Removing EGR - partial success (someone else had to loosen the bolts on the manifold).
Renewing trailing arm bushes - failure (had to get someone else to do it - couldn't undo bolts again).
Adjusting/replacing wheel bearings - failure (not enough tools or confidence!)
Penny trick - success.
Electric window ECU soldering - success.
Front brake pads - failure (no time).
Prop shaft UJ - failure (couldn't undo bolts).
It's funny... the failures are soooo demeaning, but the successes are great!!!!!
overall, i'm happy, learning lots and having a great time driving the disco, and a 50/50 success rate isn't too bad, I don't think, for someone in my position...
davek0974
Well-Known Member
I took my fan off a while back, i noticed bugger all difference in noise or warm up time, its back on now as paranoia got the best of me and i didnt want to risk cooking a good engine, too many people told me that by the time the gauge reaches the top, its too late.
It takes about one mile more to warm up, maybe 2 or 3 minutes less than with the fan on. If the viscous unit is fully working, it cant be beaten. The only argument i see is if you are mud-plugging or deep wading.
I know which side of the fence i am staying on, and my peace of mind makes me more relaxed now.
It takes about one mile more to warm up, maybe 2 or 3 minutes less than with the fan on. If the viscous unit is fully working, it cant be beaten. The only argument i see is if you are mud-plugging or deep wading.
I know which side of the fence i am staying on, and my peace of mind makes me more relaxed now.
DiscoLew
Active Member
I agree with Dave, the peace of mind you get by leaving it on far outweighs any advantages taking it off may have!
battenberg
Well-Known Member
your LR wheel brace is the same size as the bottom bolt on your crank damper, so no big socket to buy!
and loose the fan!
and loose the fan!
waldershelf
Well-Known Member
Back on topic, to set the tappets on the 300tdi engine you don't need to get to the crank bolt to turn the engine, a socket and ratchet on the alternator will turn the engine over nicely. Much easier to get to and you can see exactly what the valves are doing as you turn the engine over.
Take some care using this method.
It is quite possible to expose the belt to tension beyond its designed limit.
