Al2O3 said:
How many miles has the engine/injectors done?
I would change the hoses from the turbo to the intercooler and air inlet manifold first. A boost gauge is very easy to fit. If you have a unit you just need the relevant pipe and adapter to screw in to the back of the inlet manifold.
Click to expand...
I think I tend to agree. I will look at silicone ones only if they do them in black, I’m not one for bling. Alternatively, are the standard rubber reproduction ones acceptable.

I will look to get a gauge setup to give a more informed understanding of boost.
Disco1BFG said:
A boost gauge is a good thing to have in any event - even of only as a temporary / test fit. On the 300Tdi, there's a plugged hole in the back of the plenum - tapped M12*1 - same as the fuel banjo's ....

Your hose looks kaput - as in totally kaput, and I'd almost expect it to have collapsed internally.

What's your intercooler like ? Has it been cleaned out recently ?

What's the inside of the plenum like ? Has it been cleaned out recently ?

The FIP will only allow / add boost under load - revving the engine from the FIP will not produce any appreciable boost - IMO, boost gauge first and go from there....
Click to expand...

The plenum is generally clean, nothing notable. I cleaned and flushed out intercooler approximately 2000 miles ago and has only done tarmac journeys. It was generally clean then.

this may sound a ridiculous question, but what makes you believe that hose is kaput, the pin hole, visual inspection or that fact it is extremely soft. God I hope you’re right, this would be a relatively inexpensive fix. Would you expect to see an improvement in top end speed, particularly going up hills?
Thanks
 
Start with simple things first. Changing the pipes is easy as is fitting a temp boost gauge especially if you gave one lying about. As lynall said a hole will likely whistle. A turbo without a hose on the output makes a hell of a noise, so even a small hole will likely whistle. Without a hole you can get blockages caused by delamination. Then as Disco1BFG said start checking intercooler itself
 
Landyfox said:
I think I tend to agree. I will look at silicone ones only if they do them in black, I’m not one for bling. Alternatively, are the standard rubber reproduction ones acceptable.

I will look to get a gauge setup to give a more informed understanding of boost.


The plenum is generally clean, nothing notable. I cleaned and flushed out intercooler approximately 2000 miles ago and has only done tarmac journeys. It was generally clean then.

this may sound a ridiculous question, but what makes you believe that hose is kaput, the pin hole, visual inspection or that fact it is extremely soft. God I hope you’re right, this would be a relatively inexpensive fix. Would you expect to see an improvement in top end speed, particularly going up hills?
Thanks
Click to expand...
They do do them in black.
How many miles have your injectors done?
From your pictures your hoses look old and passed their best. Even if you didn't have an issue it would be worth changing those hoses to prevent an issue occurring. A delaminated hose causing a blockage would affect your power output. This would be most noticeable at times of peak demand, such as accelerating quickly or going up hill.
 
Injectors have done approximately 130.000 miles. Under what is recommended, but I have such a strong smell of diesel in the cab.
 
Landyfox said:
Injectors have done approximately 130.000 miles. Under what is recommended, but I have such a strong smell of diesel in the cab.
Click to expand...
Then the power issue might be a lack of fuel rather than a lack of air. Have you checked from the tank along the fuel line, lift pump filter etc for leaks?
 
I’ve carefully inspected all pips in the fuel system and everything appears to be in good order. I have also changed the lift pump for a new Delphi one. To test this was working, I removed the pipe and depressed the lever 4 or 5 times and more than enough fuel came out. My hunch is still a leaky injector/s or banjos. I am going to purchase a mechanical bench tester and look to renew all the nozzles in the injectors and fit new copper washers and banjos. Process of elimination with the least expensive first.
 
Landyfox said:
I’ve carefully inspected all pips in the fuel system and everything appears to be in good order. I have also changed the lift pump for a new Delphi one. To test this was working, I removed the pipe and depressed the lever 4 or 5 times and more than enough fuel came out. My hunch is still a leaky injector/s or banjos. I am going to purchase a mechanical bench tester and look to renew all the nozzles in the injectors and fit new copper washers and banjos. Process of elimination with the least expensive first.
Click to expand...
Always a good plan.
 
We have progress.... I was rechecking and checking again all of the fuel pipes as advised. Obviously they have some minor wear where they had been touching other pipes. No holes obvious, but some wear to the pipe exterior. However, when turning the engine over and physically moving the pipes, I noticed a slight drip from the pipe routing between the filter and FIP. as I gently move the upper pipe, fuel squirted out. Clearly this has not been obvious as the above pipe concealed the damage part. I now need to figure out the pipe internal diameter and order some more.

Would you expect this small leak to cause a reduction in top speed performance, especially going up hills?
Thanks
 
A small video - It’s clearly noticeable now that I’ve been touching the pipes.

any thoughts?
 
I will check internal and external diameter and order one. For that price you can not complain. Will be interesting to see what effect it will have, Im not 100% sure it will make a big difference other than fuel consumption, which is already rather good, as as the system is self bleeding between the filter and the FIP. I’m interested on hearing others opinions.
 
Landyfox said:
this may sound a ridiculous question, but what makes you believe that hose is kaput, the pin hole, visual inspection or that fact it is extremely soft.
Click to expand...

Not a ridiculous question :).

All of the above - I'd replace that as a matter of course - if it hasn't failed, and they are notorious for doing exactly that, then it is on a short fuse, so to speak. The lack of power at the higher end could be a number of things - the fuel leak won't help (obvs), but the hose is a prime suspect given their proclivity for failing - in particular, the lining separating from the outer layer, and blocking the airflow - with full boost being only 1.2 bar, it doesn't take much to reduce power by half .....

Since you're disturbing the fuel filter circuit .... is it full of fuel ? half full is almost certainly lift pump on the way...

Do the simplest and cheapest and most obvious things first :)

ETA:- I notice your LP has a screw on top ... Is the filter in it clean ?
 
Landyfox said:
Injectors have done approximately 130.000 miles. Under what is recommended, but I have such a strong smell of diesel in the cab.
Click to expand...

I thought injector service interval was 100K ? This is what I've always worked on - I did mine at 109K - great improvement, and SWMBO's are being done now at 112K...
 
Disco1BFG said:
Not a ridiculous question :).

All of the above - I'd replace that as a matter of course - if it hasn't failed, and they are notorious for doing exactly that, then it is on a short fuse, so to speak. The lack of power at the higher end could be a number of things - the fuel leak won't help (obvs), but the hose is a prime suspect given their proclivity for failing - in particular, the lining separating from the outer layer, and blocking the airflow - with full boost being only 1.2 bar, it doesn't take much to reduce power by half .....

Since you're disturbing the fuel filter circuit .... is it full of fuel ? half full is almost certainly lift pump on the way...

Do the simplest and cheapest and most obvious things first :)

ETA:- I notice your LP has a screw on top ... Is the filter in it clean ?
Click to expand...
Thanks Disco for taking the time to explain. Actually I’ve checked the Mileage today, I’m on 90 odd...
 
While awaiting delivery of the new set of hoses and straight through connecter, I thought I would scan the whole engine bay making notes of what needs to be done. Apart from what must be a small leak around the power steering reservoir (although I don't seem to be losing any fluid) everything is generally okay. It definetly requires a good clean and and service as its almost sat for the past 24 months. I did notice a small hole in the Exhaust down pipe and the manifold is ridiculously rusty, but not blowing....They are future projects. However, I also discovered that the lower hose (sleeve) from the turbo into the intercooler wasn't fully tight and when revving the pipe would work its way upwards towards the edge of the sleeve. On inspection, although the pipe was sitting deep inside the hose the actual jubilee was kaput. Whoever last tightened it never realised that it hadn't fully tightened. I've replace the J/Clip and there is no movement at all now when revving, so hopefully that will make a small difference to performance. Unfortunately I'm unable to take it for a test drive due to the fuel leak, but I did notice that when revving at the FIP, the minute I let go there was a momentary delay before idling nicely. I'm hoping this is a result of the leak between the FIP to Filter. Any ideas?
 
While at high power the injection pump will want more fuel, if at this time some of the fuel is lost at a split and/or some air gets in power will be lost and there could be some uneven running until the self bleed gets on top. With older non self bleed pumps engine would either continue to run rough or just stop.
 
when i ran my 110 project up to the barn and back this week, had a pop and a loss of power, top hose for intercooler had popped off as i had not done the clip up....!!

So could certainly be a factor in your loss of power,
 
Landyfox said:
Apart from what must be a small leak around the power steering reservoir (although I don't seem to be losing any fluid)
Click to expand...

IME, the braided hose under the reservoir deteriorates in much the same way as the turbo hoses do - they've done some years work by now ..... ;) ... and they almost "sweat" oil out - a new hose will probably cure it .... don't leave it long enough to fail - cos the mess ain't worth it :rolleyes: ( ask me how I know this :mad::rolleyes: :D ) .... keep your eye on the oil pressure sender for the same reason, cos when that little g*t lets go ......:rolleyes: ... oh yeah, and the oil cooler hoses ...... :D

Landyfox said:
but I did notice that when revving at the FIP, the minute I let go there was a momentary delay before idling nicely. I'm hoping this is a result of the leak between the FIP to Filter. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

As per post 37 - plus the governor takes a second to pick up the slack as the engine returns to idle - some will be set tight and let the engine essentially stop before kicking in again, and some might be a little less severe - IMO, more or less normal behaviour for the Bosch VE FIP .... ( my D1 is at the "soft" end of the scale, whereas SWMBO's is the other extreme o_O )
 
Disco1BFG said:
IME, the braided hose under the reservoir deteriorates in much the same way as the turbo hoses do - they've done some years work by now ..... ;) ... and they almost "sweat" oil out - a new hose will probably cure it .... don't leave it long enough to fail - cos the mess ain't worth it :rolleyes: ( ask me how I know this :mad::rolleyes: :D ) .... keep your eye on the oil pressure sender for the same reason, cos when that little g*t lets go ......:rolleyes: ... oh yeah, and the oil cooler hoses ...... :D
)
Click to expand...

Am I correct in assuming it’s just a case of draining the system and replacing the hose then refilling it and bleeding the air out? Thanks
 
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