reiny · Apr 5, 2017

Ok, time for a little update. The turbo was dismantled without too much trouble. Removing the actuator rod requires Herculean strengh. I have absolutely no idea how I'm going to re-attach it when the time comes. The 4 bolts securing the cartridge to the exhaust housing are real pigs. They're 1/2" AF bolts. Do not attempt to use anything else apart from a good quality 1/2" AF open-jawed spanner (there's no room for a ring spanner). Only one of the bolts on my turbo came undone without heat. The rest were heated to cherry red with an oxy-acetylene flame and still they wouldn't budge. A few sharp taps with a hammer and chisel broke the sea and they came undone without too much bother. the exhaust housing was then separated with a few gentle taps of a rubber mallet. The inlet housing was then secured in a vice and I attempted to remove the circlip. Thankfully I had some help and we removed it pretty quickly by jamming a couple of screwdrivers behind the circlip as soon as it was compressed.

The whole assembly is awaiting a darn good clean. There's obvious damage to the impellers although I expected to find more damage. Meanwhile I removed the injectors and sent them off for servicing since the darn vehicle shall be out of use for a few days. I spent an hour trying to clean inlet manifold. It's a mess. Any tips? I'm using petrol and diesel, toothbrushes, cloths, etc but there's only so far I can reach.

reiny · Apr 11, 2017

The new cartridge arrived yesterday and it really is a thing of beauty. Installation is relatively simple. I didn't take many pics but refitting really is the opposite of removal. Carefully fit the o-ring to the compressor side of the cartridge and fit the cartridge into the housing. Compress the large circlip and fit. Tap it in gently with a small drift until it snaps into place. Gently fit the other end of the cartridge into the exhaust manifold, rotate it slightly to fit the bolts and start tightening them slowly. Rotate the fins slowly to be absolutely certain that nothing is snagging. Fit the actuator and pull the actuator arm into place. It's much easier to fit than it is to remove. Don't forget to fit the C-clip (or E-clip as some people call it).

A quick note about fitting the oil drain hose. That gave me the biggest headache. When i removed the turbo I removed the two nuts clamping the drain hose to the turbo housing leaving the hose attached to the block (I was reluctant to remove the hose from the block). It's virtually impossible to refit the hose that way without disturbing the gasket. I removed the drain hose from the block (it came away with the adapter and all). I separated the hose from the adapter, cleaned it all up, sprayed brake cleaner through the hose and blew compressed air through it, did the same thing for oil supply hose. Then I connected the supply hose to the block and the drain hose to the turbo, bolted the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head and re-attached rain hose. It's a bit fiddly with a large spanner (I used a 28mm but the bolt is smaller). Re-connect exhaust pipe, inlet manifold, all related hoses, inject a small quantity of oil into the turbo housing and re-connect feed hose.

Starting up is crucial. Treat it as though it's a freshly rebuilt engine. Disconnect the stop solenoid, crank the starter in bursts of no more than 10 seconds, leaving 30 seconds between bursts to avoid overheating the starter. Crank until the oil light extinguishes. When it extinguishes, re-connect the stop solenoid and start the engine. Do not rev it at all for the first few minutes. That's all really.

Saint.V8 · Apr 11, 2017

reiny said:
The new cartridge arrived yesterday and it really is a thing of beauty. Installation is relatively simple. I didn't take many pics but refitting really is the opposite of removal. Carefully fit the o-ring to the compressor side of the cartridge and fit the cartridge into the housing. Compress the large circlip and fit. Tap it in gently with a small drift until it snaps into place. Gently fit the other end of the cartridge into the exhaust manifold, rotate it slightly to fit the bolts and start tightening them slowly. Rotate the fins slowly to be absolutely certain that nothing is snagging. Fit the actuator and pull the actuator arm into place. It's much easier to fit than it is to remove. Don't forget to fit the C-clip (or E-clip as some people call it).

A quick note about fitting the oil drain hose. That gave me the biggest headache. When i removed the turbo I removed the two nuts clamping the drain hose to the turbo housing leaving the hose attached to the block (I was reluctant to remove the hose from the block). It's virtually impossible to refit the hose that way without disturbing the gasket. I removed the drain hose from the block (it came away with the adapter and all). I separated the hose from the adapter, cleaned it all up, sprayed brake cleaner through the hose and blew compressed air through it, did the same thing for oil supply hose. Then I connected the supply hose to the block and the drain hose to the turbo, bolted the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head and re-attached rain hose. It's a bit fiddly with a large spanner (I used a 28mm but the bolt is smaller). Re-connect exhaust pipe, inlet manifold, all related hoses, inject a small quantity of oil into the turbo housing and re-connect feed hose.

Starting up is crucial. Treat it as though it's a freshly rebuilt engine. Disconnect the stop solenoid, crank the starter in bursts of no more than 10 seconds, leaving 30 seconds between bursts to avoid overheating the starter. Crank until the oil light extinguishes. When it extinguishes, re-connect the stop solenoid and start the engine. Do not rev it at all for the first few minutes. That's all really.

Fecking awesome....really pleased it worked for you....

I had similar issues with the lower oil drain pipe when I took my engine out, it was the longest part of the job was trying to get that pipe back on.

Well done chap.

reiny

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reiny

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Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

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