M

Mosesdefender90

New Member
Hello l bought a 300tdi engine for a conversion before I put the engine in I decided to change the timing belt. I opened up the cover everything was fine . I bought a kit with all the tensioner belts and seals and fitted everything after 30 though miles injector pump started leaking I opened the cover and the belt was a quarter worn away . I replaced injector pump and timing kit again now after 2 thousand miles belt worn away again anybody got any idea what could be wrong
 
Do you have photos?

Also there was a change , where the lip for guiding the belt was changed from the tensioner to the bottom drive. Whch kit did you use?
Did you torque the tensioner correctly?
Does sound as if something is out of true.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
Do you have photos?

Also there was a change , where the lip for guiding the belt was changed from the tensioner to the bottom drive. Whch kit did you use?
Did you torque the tensioner correctly?
Does sound as if something is out of true.

Cheers
Click to expand...
The original belt was in good condition. I used a kit that has the lip on the bottom pulley crankshaft
 
The tensioner and idler both have to have no lips now you have a lip on the crank
 
I seem to remember that some 300's have dodgy timing chests that flex , causing the belt to run off.
Also, the tension setting was reduced from 15nm to 11nm iirc.
Also, is the crank pulley all the way home on the crank?

Rich
 
Old age = lack of confidence. Wouldnt of batted an eyelid at a cam belt change years ago and was almost tempted to change mine then read that link and all i read is what could go wrong. Believe me, if it wasnt for bad luck, id have no luck at all.
 
mick the builder said:
Old age = lack of confidence. Wouldnt of batted an eyelid at a cam belt change years ago and was almost tempted to change mine then read that link and all i read is what could go wrong. Believe me, if it wasnt for bad luck, id have no luck at all.
Click to expand...
Born under a bad sign.........eh ?
Nothing to fear but fear itself, (now who said that), Timing belt = easy job .....just follow the step by step on youtube, heaps of info available on here too.
 
The glencoyne link above by neilly gives very useful info on the changes for certain 300TDi's - both of ours still had the yellow paint on (!). Worth checking. You should be able to see the bracket at the rear of the FIP which stops the timing case flexing - you can just see it in the attached pic outlined in white.....
leak off1.jpg
 
I will give a go. Its the fear of a) shearing bolts and b) messing up the timing. i will have to get a torque wrench though. In the write up it says use a torsion bar torque wrench rather than a click type. Is this essential? Also need a puller.
 
Hi @mick the builder

I used a draper torque wrench like this , ebay number: 311741345955
There are a couple of good videos / write ups around, IIRC the Landrover toolbox one on youtube is good.

One thing is when you change the idler / tension there is a torque for the bolt into the timing body that iirc is not shown on some write ups.
I cheated and took off the rad as well to gain access and make life really easy.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
Hi @mick the builder

I used a draper torque wrench like this , ebay number: 311741345955
There are a couple of good videos / write ups around, IIRC the Landrover toolbox one on youtube is good.

One thing is when you change the idler / tension there is a torque for the bolt into the timing body that iirc is not shown on some write ups.
I cheated and took off the rad as well to gain access and make life really easy.

Cheers
Click to expand...
At the moment, ive got both wings off and a new rad to fit so it would be silly not to change the belt and water pump/p gasket at this point
 
I have made a note in my rebuild book, to place small countersinks for the bolt holes on the timing case...I read or looked at a video somewhere and I think it was pertaining to timing belt premature wear. I think it was suggested as means of ensuring proper torque on the bolts. from what I have read and heard, its imperative to torque these bolts to spec.

I am awaiting on a 10 to 200 in/lb click type torque wrench to be delivered to do mine....I shipped a container of tools when I moved here but missing that important tool :)
 
mick the builder said:
I will give a go. Its the fear of a) shearing bolts and b) messing up the timing. i will have to get a torque wrench though. In the write up it says use a torsion bar torque wrench rather than a click type. Is this essential? Also need a puller.
Click to expand...
@mick the builder , there has been problems experienced with the tensioner bolts snapping off if you reuse the old one, I believe new kits will now include all new bits to do the job inclusive of that bolt.
I have done two belt changes in the past couple of years and only changed the belt, (two different Discos), I was at that stage unaware that the bolts were prone to breaking, found out through a mate who had a bolt break after changing the belt only, but I have thus far had no disasters, keeping fingers crossed.
 
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