Lewi112 · Oct 20, 2020

Right, I'm back again with another brilliant issue, I'm experiencing a small amount of smoke in the form of unburnt diesel on cold start (identified by the smell)

Things that are new and I know that is perfect

Head
Head gasket
Timing Belt
Timing pulleys
Timing

I want to also say I didn't have these issues before a new head and timing replacement, but I'm not sure what state the timing was beforehand as it could have been advanced (i have read a slight advancement in timing will reduce the smoke from a cold start)

I understand this might come across as basic or beginner knowledge , you would be right i am both off these.

wireman · Oct 20, 2020

IIRC smoke on start up is 'normal' for TDIs, the way the system works, it injects slightly more fuel on start up to help starting so there will always be some smoke. How much is too much I could not say.

Lewi112 · Oct 20, 2020

wireman said:
IIRC smoke on start up is 'normal' for TDIs, the way the system works, it injects slightly more fuel on start up to help starting so there will always be some smoke. How much is too much I could not say.

How quickly should this go away ideally ,I’ve just practically rebuilt my defender and I’m excited to get back out in it , at the same time I’m also scared Incase it’s wrong

lynall · Oct 20, 2020

Drive it and see how you get on before adjusting/changing anything.

Advance timing a knatts cock will help with smoke, but mainly with starting as they are not quite the same crack into life jobs as the 200s were.

wireman · Oct 20, 2020

If its diesel it should disappear fairly quickly after start up. If the valve stem seals are leaking oil (I know you say your head is good but new parts fail sometimes) then the smoke will take a little longer.

Lewi112 · Oct 20, 2020

lynall said:
Drive it and see how you get on before adjusting/changing anything.

Advance timing a knatts cock will help with smoke, but mainly with starting as they are not quite the same crack into life jobs as the 200s were.

ahh lynall we meet again I was a bit worried about taking it for a run , I have done the Timing as per a pervious post but I have read the standard is 1.54mm lift and the sweet spot for no smoke is 1.60mm

Lewi112 · Oct 20, 2020

wireman said:
If its diesel it should disappear fairly quickly after start up. If the valve stem seals are leaking oil (I know you say your head is good but new parts fail sometimes) then the smoke will take a little longer.

this isn’t my video but it’s very similar to this one

I will try and get an actual video tomorrow unless I can find one on my phone

lynall · Oct 20, 2020

Lewi112 said:
ahh lynall we meet again I was a bit worried about taking it for a run , I have done the Timing as per a pervious post but I have read the standard is 1.54mm lift and the sweet spot for no smoke is 1.60mm

Did you use a dti gauge?

Lewi112 · Oct 20, 2020

lynall said:
Did you use a dti gauge?

i didn’t no I just used the standard injector pump pins

lynall · Oct 20, 2020

Lewi112 said:
i didn’t no I just used the standard injector pump pins

Kits on ebay 37 quid, you need one with the 90 degree adaptor, I have done it on a boat engine with the bosch ve pump, was only 0.40mm retarded and this was causing a large amount of white smoke and unburnt diesel under power.
Went to check my 200 pumps but my kit does not have the 90 deg adaptor, and I cannot seem to find the adaptor on its own.

The std inj pump pin is a decent fit, but the crank one has a bit of slop, you can see this if you fit crank lock tool and use a spanner on the crank bolt to see how much it will move each way before stopping.

Lewi112 · Oct 20, 2020

lynall said:
Kits on ebay 37 quid, you need one with the 90 degree adaptor, I have done it on a boat engine with the bosch ve pump, was only 0.40mm retarded and this was causing a large amount of white smoke and unburnt diesel under power.
Went to check my 200 pumps but my kit does not have the 90 deg adaptor, and I cannot seem to find the adaptor on its own.

The std inj pump pin is a decent fit, but the crank one has a bit of slop, you can see this if you fit crank lock tool and use a spanner on the crank bolt to see how much it will move each way before stopping.

Yeah I noticed what you said about the crank lock tool I’ll have another look into it , I was just hooping I could get it going without before I get paid and can order some more tools , I also now need to replace the idler pulley bearing

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