battenberg
Well-Known Member
whats the history of your 'new' motor?
if it's ever done any deep wading without the front timing cover wading plug, then the belt will have a significantly decreased service life!
if it's ever done any deep wading without the front timing cover wading plug, then the belt will have a significantly decreased service life!
V8jon
Well-Known Member
I doubt its done any wading,it's totally standard with full service history,I bought it off a friend,he got it to do a bit of greenlaning but said it was in too good a condition and didn't want to damage it. So he sold it to me,and up until my mate got it I don't think it had done much if any offroading.
I'll do the belt after Xmas just for peace of mind seen as though it's only done 25000 miles since last replacement
I'll do the belt after Xmas just for peace of mind seen as though it's only done 25000 miles since last replacement
puppysandwich
New Member
According to Haynes its every 36000 miles or 3 years what ever comes first.
Dewin
Well-Known Member
Sounds about right, my local indy advised me to change it every 40,000 miles or 3 years.
battenberg
Well-Known Member
OK, to shake things up a little!
Most 300's will have had a timing belt replacement by now.
Early 300's had a different timing belt assembly which was no good. the bad design caused belts to break prematurley.
the difference is essentialy in the bottom pully and the idler; the early 300 had no shoulders on the bottom drive pully which caused the belt to wander and tear. the later version had shoulders to rectify this.
What does this mean?
your's is an 'M' reg wich means is had the 'OLD' style kit from the factory. If you order your new kit 'mail order' by 'VIN number' there's a good chance the old kit will turn up.
But until you take it apart, you wont know!
I suggest getting the parts for the Idler and tensioner roller localy. and having a usable car available when you do the work in case you need to run out and swap them... as they may appear to be the wrong ones when you go to change them.
The biggest give away as to whether the engine on it's last belt change was given the conversion to the new kit will be the shoulders on the bottom belt pully.
if you are given the option when you order the kit, go for the newer style of tensioner and idler. then pay attention to the torque settings because the new kit was documented with different values.
Do some research and all will become clear!
Most 300's will have had a timing belt replacement by now.
Early 300's had a different timing belt assembly which was no good. the bad design caused belts to break prematurley.
the difference is essentialy in the bottom pully and the idler; the early 300 had no shoulders on the bottom drive pully which caused the belt to wander and tear. the later version had shoulders to rectify this.
What does this mean?
your's is an 'M' reg wich means is had the 'OLD' style kit from the factory. If you order your new kit 'mail order' by 'VIN number' there's a good chance the old kit will turn up.
But until you take it apart, you wont know!
I suggest getting the parts for the Idler and tensioner roller localy. and having a usable car available when you do the work in case you need to run out and swap them... as they may appear to be the wrong ones when you go to change them.
The biggest give away as to whether the engine on it's last belt change was given the conversion to the new kit will be the shoulders on the bottom belt pully.
if you are given the option when you order the kit, go for the newer style of tensioner and idler. then pay attention to the torque settings because the new kit was documented with different values.
Do some research and all will become clear!
