Hicap phill said:
You can get a double shock system which bolts to the axles. But you may need to beef up the spring tops as you are holding 2 shocks on 4 bolts. (We had 4 shocks on each axle & would remove some if ground was smooth) also it limits the amount of spares needed if you can use front shocks on the rear

Don’t wind out the fuel pump,produces more heat for the intercooler to work.(we ran large charge/water fed intercooler on a separate rad & pump)
Just make sure the turbo spools up at low speed

As for removal of part of exhaust,there are noise restrictions on MSA events must be below 100Db
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. I don't think there is any noise restrictions at the event I will be attending but I will make sure . I also thought about a charge cooler but I don't know if there will be a noticeable difference in power compared to a intercooler. I think there will be aftermarket shock towers available which holds 2 shock in the front. I know someone who did dune riding in a defender, once the coil spring popped out. So maybe I need to make a plan there too. Regarding tyres, do I need some bigger tyres? Thanks again everyone.
 
Jan Spoeg said:
I know someone who did dune riding in a defender, once the coil spring popped out. So maybe I need to make a plan there too. Regarding tyres, do I need some bigger tyres? Thanks again everyone.
Click to expand...

1. fit coil spring retainers - again, see Gwyn Lewis
2. larger tyres rarely needed - it depends purely on the event - don't be tempted to go down the bigger bling is better route, remember it's a Defender - if flat out sprint type rally even Bowler run near std size wheel/tyre combinations. If primarily off road Africa it's tread pattern and tyre pressures that are key [and adjusting pressure correctly per stage - remember, one day will be road, another remote farmland and river crossings, another mountainous, another possibly all day on sand]. Most of the time a good all round tyre with cover 90% of conditions leaving only adjusting tyre pressures.

Q? Is the event being sponsored by a tyre manufacturer? If so, they'll offer discounted tyre sets for competitors and these will be 100% suitable for the event [+ regs may even state it's a one tyre make rally - read comp regs].

I used to compete in some events sponsored by Colway and/or Dunlop. Colway and Dunlop tyres only permitted, any other tyre manufacturer incurred penalty points from the start and/or at each stage.
 
v8250 said:
1. fit coil spring retainers - again, see Gwyn Lewis
2. larger tyres rarely needed - it depends purely on the event - don't be tempted to go down the bigger bling is better route, remember it's a Defender - if flat out sprint type rally even Bowler run near std size wheel/tyre combinations. If primarily off road Africa it's tread pattern and tyre pressures that are key [and adjusting pressure correctly per stage - remember, one day will be road, another remote farmland and river crossings, another mountainous, another possibly all day on sand]. Most of the time a good all round tyre with cover 90% of conditions leaving only adjusting tyre pressures.

Q? Is the event being sponsored by a tyre manufacturer? If so, they'll offer discounted tyre sets for competitors and these will be 100% suitable for the event [+ regs may even state it's a one tyre make rally - read comp regs].

I used to compete in some events sponsored by Colway and/or Dunlop. Colway and Dunlop tyres only permitted, any other tyre manufacturer incurred penalty points from the start and/or at each stage.
Click to expand...
It may be sponsored by a tyre manufacturer but I'll need to make sure. Thanks again for all the advice.
 
Jan Spoeg said:
Thanks for the advice. I don't think there is any noise restrictions at the event I will be attending but I will make sure . I also thought about a charge cooler but I don't know if there will be a noticeable difference in power compared to a intercooler. I think there will be aftermarket shock towers available which holds 2 shock in the front. I know someone who did dune riding in a defender, once the coil spring popped out. So maybe I need to make a plan there too. Regarding tyres, do I need some bigger tyres? Thanks again everyone.
Click to expand...
Unless you move the intercooler they can get blocked with mud in the fins. Charge coolers can run a separate rad out the way of all the muck.
It also gives cooler air even when stationary unlike an intercooler.

Happy building.
 
Hicap phill said:
Unless you move the intercooler they can get blocked with mud in the fins. Charge coolers can run a separate rad out the way of all the muck.
It also gives cooler air even when stationary unlike an intercooler.

Happy building.
Click to expand...
Thanks, it must be quite a difficult system to build a charge cooler? Do you mount its radiator somewhere else or in front of the normal radiator?
 
Jan Spoeg said:
Thanks, it must be quite a difficult system to build a charge cooler? Do you mount its radiator somewhere else or in front of the normal radiator?
Click to expand...
Normal rad in the front with a finer mesh to stop mud. Slides out so easily to clean
We put the charge rad in the rear(look at early photos of the red racer) 2 long metal tubes for the water & electric pump.
You may have trouble to do this in a standard van style 90.
 
Hicap phill said:
Normal rad in the front with a finer mesh to stop mud. Slides out so easily to clean
We put the charge rad in the rear(look at early photos of the red racer) 2 long metal tubes for the water & electric pump.
You may have trouble to do this in a standard van style 90.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. I will definitely consider a charge cooler.
 
I did send Bowler an email, so hopefully they respond too with some advice. UK Armed Forces Rally Team I also sent an email for some advice. Thanks everyone for the advice.
 
Hi everyone, I thought I give you an update on my project. I thought at the beginning of the project this isn't going to be a big project and I also miss judged my budget. So unfortunately I will not be resuming the project but maybe in coming years, I don't know. At this stage I will be resuming my search for my first defender as that I can afford. Thanks again everyone for all your advice.
 
For ref', I built my first rally car over 25 years ago and had no change from £20k, it's an expensive sport. Whilst money halves in true value every 10 years it would still take at least £30k in today's money and at least £25-30k to build a strong reliable Land Rover that won't leave you stranded on the first few stages. Worse, African type rallies have a tendency to literally shake cars and bikes to pieces so every last bolt and washer needs to be doubly tightened down.

These figures exclude entry fees, food and fuel.

Harry Metcalfe's has just finished the Moroccan Sandraiders, two of his group of five did not finish due to bike failures...that a 40% attrition rate. The videos make for fun viewing

 
Jan Spoeg said:
Hi everyone, I thought I give you an update on my project. I thought at the beginning of the project this isn't going to be a big project and I also miss judged my budget. So unfortunately I will not be resuming the project but maybe in coming years, I don't know. At this stage I will be resuming my search for my first defender as that I can afford. Thanks again everyone for all your advice.
Click to expand...
Have you consider getting a Series?
I think they still have a following in Southern Africa, and they are quite basic and easy to work on.
And from driving and maintaining one, you will get a bit of an idea of how later models work, because most stuff that came later on is evolved from what was on Series.
 
v8250 said:
For ref', I built my first rally car over 25 years ago and had no change from £20k, it's an expensive sport. Whilst money halves in true value every 10 years it would still take at least £30k in today's money and at least £25-30k to build a strong reliable Land Rover that won't leave you stranded on the first few stages. Worse, African type rallies have a tendency to literally shake cars and bikes to pieces so every last bolt and washer needs to be doubly tightened down.

These figures exclude entry fees, food and fuel.

Harry Metcalfe's has just finished the Moroccan Sandraiders, two of his group of five did not finish due to bike failures...that a 40% attrition rate. The videos make for fun viewing

Click to expand...


ooofft that looks hard going.
 
Turboman said:
Have you consider getting a Series?
I think they still have a following in Southern Africa, and they are quite basic and easy to work on.
And from driving and maintaining one, you will get a bit of an idea of how later models work, because most stuff that came later on is evolved from what was on Series.
Click to expand...
I don't want to bad mouth the series but I think you can ask anyone who has a coil spring defender including myself, they will tell you the series is quite rough going off road compared to a defender. I have a friend who loves series' but the other day we went for a drive on his farm with his series III, I think my kidneys got some damage, just joking but seriously consider a defender above the series.
 
Farmer Spoke said:
I don't want to bad mouth the series but I think you can ask anyone who has a coil spring defender including myself, they will tell you the series is quite rough going off road compared to a defender. I have a friend who loves series' but the other day we went for a drive on his farm with his series III, I think my kidneys got some damage, just joking but seriously consider a defender above the series.
Click to expand...
Can't really say I have found them much different to a defender as regards the impact on your body.

When I was on forestry work in the 80s and 90s we had several Series on the firm, driven on the roads, but also fields, and lots of forestry tracks.
I still had a 109" when I got my own farm (heavy clay, saturated in winter), and used the 109 on and off the farm for about 8 years.
Then had a Ninety, which I used on the farm, on the road, and for quite a few laning trips.
The Ninety was maybe a bit softer ride than the Series, but maybe bouncier. But not much in it really.

Reckon you are just a bit of a Wuss if you can't drive Series! :banana:
 
Turboman said:
Can't really say I have found them much different to a defender as regards the impact on your body.

When I was on forestry work in the 80s and 90s we had several Series on the firm, driven on the roads, but also fields, and lots of forestry tracks.
I still had a 109" when I got my own farm (heavy clay, saturated in winter), and used the 109 on and off the farm for about 8 years.
Then had a Ninety, which I used on the farm, on the road, and for quite a few laning trips.
The Ninety was maybe a bit softer ride than the Series, but maybe bouncier. But not much in it really.

Reckon you are just a bit of a Wuss if you can't drive Series! :banana:
Click to expand...
I don't know how the terrain is where you drove a series but here where I used to drive them they rode quite hard. I assume your series had leaf springs on yours? Don't get me wrong they have their place but not on this farm, the terrain is simply too rough. In the dunes it bounced so much I hit my head against the roof constantly and the mountainous roads was also quite a challenge. Also another advantage of the defender is how easy it is to drive compares to the series. The series 1st and 2nd gear isn't synchronized so you have to double clutch which at first is something to master. For a beginner like @Jan Spoeg who is seeking his first Land Rover I would definitely recommend a defender over a series. And also the series is very slow, you can't drive it very far unless you have a lot of patience.
 
Farmer Spoke said:
I don't know how the terrain is where you drove a series but here where I used to drive them they rode quite hard. I assume your series had leaf springs on yours? Don't get me wrong they have their place but not on this farm, the terrain is simply too rough. In the dunes it bounced so much I hit my head against the roof constantly and the mountainous roads was also quite a challenge. Also another advantage of the defender is how easy it is to drive compares to the series. The series 1st and 2nd gear isn't synchronized so you have to double clutch which at first is something to master. For a beginner like @Jan Spoeg who is seeking his first Land Rover I would definitely recommend a defender over a series. And also the series is very slow, you can't drive it very far unless you have a lot of patience.
Click to expand...

As we don't have a clue where you are from or what experience you have (as I must have missed an introduction post)

I would prefer the views of somebody that has driven both, who gives an honest real world opinion:).

As for any car to do a rally they are far from original spec, so the base vehicle is pretty much immaterial.

As for what car the OP looks for and can find in good condition I hope we find out. Be it Series or defender.

I would just say it should be a V8 something he likes and is prepared for the problems coming.

J
 
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