Muddy31

Muddy31

New Member
Hi,


My 1994 300Tdi 90 has lost it's top-end power. Struggles to reach 68-70mph on Mway unloaded, where could prev reach 85mph. Loses speed even on slight inclines. I know they're not built for speed but this is my indication that something's wrong.


Has recently had oil and coolant changes with no issues, as well as new oil, air and fuel filters. Oil, coolant and temp levels are all fine. Has had new lift pump.


Any ideas on most likely cause? Valve clearances? Head gasket? Intercooler? Intercooler pipes? Anything else?.... And in which order would you investigate?


Incidentally, this problem was only apparent after a gear- and transfer-box re-con. Could this be related?...
 
Had a new air filter ?

Checked for a split in the boost hose from the turbo to the FP ?

Any leaks from the newly fitted stuff ?
 
Forgot to mention, it's registering 0.98-1.0 bar pressure on the boost gauge just before the actuator.
 
check the hose from the turbo to the fuel injection pump. If it has a pin hole leak it will be massively down on power.
 
Did the replacement gearboxes have the same ratio's as the ones you removed? Also transfer box speedo gear may be the wrong colour (different tooth count) and make your speedo read differently than before.
 
Gear- and transfer box work was allegedly recon of existing (not replacement) but I sometimes wonder what they did since part numbers don't match original (but they may not have when I bought it anyway, as I didn't check them then). Interesting comment on speedo gear, but it feels like speed is accurate. Maybe turbo hose is next thing to check then....
 
I had similar issue years ago around town low speeds didn't notice any difference only in 5th was the fuel pump seized not giving extra fuel on boost 1 new fuel pump later perfect :(
 
Hmmm, that makes for somber reading... :-(

My two latest quandries:

1) As above, if the problem is a seized fuel inlet pin within the fuel pump (ie. the fuel pin doesn't come out when the cone goes down), surely with some penetrating oil and persuasion the pin can be freed??

2) To test for a problem on the air feed line from the turbo to the fuel pump, and determine if this is affecting the fuel pump; if I disconnect this pipe (fuel pump will therefore only get atmospheric pressure), should I bung the turbo end of this pipe where it leaves the actuator?
 
If you remove the banjo at the pump you could use a bolt, two washers and a nut through the banjo to seal it. That said, for a quick check leaving the pipe open shouldn't cause too much of a pressure leak.
 
Don't panic. The best way to find a fault is to be methodical. Try Dippypud and Vilguy's suggestions first.
 
Thanks Kwakerman.

Tried it this evening simply with the actuator-to-fuel-pump hose disconnected. There's a big difference (much less power), as hoped, so I think the hose is working fine (gets 0.99bar at full boost when reconnected).

Back to considering dodgy air pipes / condenser, or potentially seized full pump.... Can anyone help on previous point (1) above?
 
Thanks Boguing....apologies I overlooked you!

As above, gonna go with Vilguy and Dippypud's suggestions next, ie check air pipes, condensor, and then fuel pump (if I'm not already fixed by then and out racing ferrari's)....
 
Muddy31 said:
Thanks Kwakerman.

Tried it this evening simply with the actuator-to-fuel-pump hose disconnected. There's a big difference (much less power), as hoped, so I think the hose is working fine (gets 0.99bar at full boost when reconnected).

Back to considering dodgy air pipes / condenser, or potentially seized full pump.... Can anyone help on previous point (1) above?
Click to expand...

I think you have effectively checked the fuel pin, with the pipe disconnected the pump diaphragm wont have been pushed down by boost pressure, therefore the fuel pin can't move out into the cone recess and will not increase the fuelling (therefore less power). With the pipe back on the diaphragm will have moved down letting the pin out and more fuel to engine hence more power.
 
Done more tests and would appreciate your thoughts…

With the actuator-to-fuel-pump hose disconnected I still get a reduction in power when I push beyond about 95% throttle, in 4th/5th gear. I can hear and feel what seems like a slight loss in boost, and there’s a drop of about 0.1bar on the boost gauge at this point. If I ease back off to that same spot, increased boost resumes. If I stay at that spot, speed increases slightly, but anything beyond that point, speed levels out.

I think this is either a pinhole leak in a flexible pipe (but I can’t find anything wrong in the pipes), or the turbo? There’s only about 0.5mm play on the impeller axle but I’ve noticed some oil in the mouth of the air supply pipe and the actuator-to-fuel-pump pipe. Is this indicative of a problem? The turbo-to-condenser pipe is dry.

If it is the turbo how would you go about checking it? Seals? Is a full recon necessary?
 
isnth
Dippypud said:
Had a new air filter ?

Checked for a split in the boost hose from the turbo to the FP ?

Any leaks from the newly fitted stuff ?
Click to expand...
is that this hose? I lost power on a drive and this looks decidedly squidgy
 

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cborrman said:
isnth
is that this hose? I lost power on a drive and this looks decidedly squidgy
Click to expand...

No it's the little thin one and 'squidgy' is a technical engineering term not belonging to that hose ... :D

It'll have a split, tear, hole or just have fell off of it's perch ...
 
Dippypud said:
No it's the little thin one and 'squidgy' is a technical engineering term not belonging to that hose ... :D

It'll have a split, tear, hole or just have fell off of it's perch ...
Click to expand...
thanks for help both, it had fallen off its perch thankfully, and you are right, it was purposefully pert, not at all squidgy... and had squirted oil... ok, will stop now :)
 
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