miktdish

miktdish

Guns n Chainsaws
Full Member
Never done one before, my mate (who knows everything LR) said, "it's a bit of a fiddle" ....

Well, he's not wrong.
I left the car for a week and when I came back the slight damp-patch i'd noticed was this ...

leaky.jpg


The new tank's cover wasn't the straightest and there was a lot of tension at one end ... out came the grinder ...

tension-out.jpg


Couple of taps with a hammer, bit more off, then the welder ...

welded.jpg
 
To get the old one out is a real fiddle, everything seems to hit everything else.

I took the panel off under the drivers seat to access the top pf the tank and unscrewed the return outlet and senser.
I'd never seen a sensor before .... It's held in with a ring that you need to rotate 90 degrees.
I used a socket and cut some notches to grab the little tangs ....

fuel-sender.jpg


There are two bolts holding the rear of the tank to the outrigger and 1 (special shoulder bolt) with rubber washers at the front.
The front bracket is bolted to the front outrigger with 3 M8 bolts.
They need spindly long fingers and 3 13mm spanners to get them off. Which you need to do to get the tank out.

old-rear-bkt.jpg

old-front-bkt.jpg


Here's my new front bracket loosly fitted ... i've sprayed some Lanoguard around too.

new-fwd-bracket.jpg
 
It was total b*stard getting the shiny new one in on mine without scratching it, took many attempts - there is a way but it took me ages to accidentally find it and it plopped in without issue….

…the neighbours learnt some new words along the way.

perseverance😀
 
When I did mine last year for better access took out the floorplate and and the sill rail.
 
Thanks for the photos, very useful. It's amazing how a galvanised part really does highlight its location.

It's a pity the shield on the tank isn't removable as I find the mud and moisture trap in-between really frustrating. It looks like you have done a great job preparing and painting it, yet you can't get to the rust inviting bit!
 
Not a lot can be done about protecting the space between tank and shield. I got a can of spray waterproof grease and blasted it in the gap with an extended tube.
Do not do as some have and try and seal the gap with some sort of sealant, sooner or later it will give and water will get in and stay in, then the rot soon sets in.
 
I spayed a load of lanoguard, in will spray more today.
The new tank and guard are deffo thinner than the original, however, I suppose I should of expected that as it's a sh*tpart variant.

slomofo said:
It was total b*stard getting the shiny new one in on mine without scratching it, took many attempts - there is a way but it took me ages to accidentally find it and it plopped in without issue….
Click to expand...

Tell me 'the way' ?
 
Last edited:
Bit more today ...
Took your advice and dropped my rock-sliders and the sill U channel.
Of course that opened up a can of worms uncovering more rotten bits requiring attention.

seatbox-back.jpg

seatbox-back-plated.jpg


Decided i'd make up some new stainless bolts for the rear of the tank ...
Small plate, hole and TiG an M8 on .... easy .... I thought

TIG-is-hard.jpg
 
It's in ..... now I need to reassemble the sill and add the fuel lines etc.
Anyone need some help with thier tank change ?
Free advice as long as i'm more than 100 miles away :vb-wave:

its-in.jpg

front-bkt-in-1.jpg


That front bracket made me swear, a 'bit of a fiddle' doesn't cover it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DefendingLancashire
300TDI Four-parter: brake wear, lift pump / fuel filter, turbo, and bushes / squeaking
Replies
13
Views
531
miktdish
miktdish
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
styleruk
2.25 petrol rough idle
2 3 4
Replies
60
Views
2K
styleruk
styleruk
A
1995 Discovery 300TDI Engine Issue - Thoughts
Replies
2
Views
529
shaynecm
S
chrubb
300tdi Bosch injector pump head scratcher
Replies
4
Views
1K
chrubb
chrubb