Vulche

New Member
Hi guys and gals I've just discovered a heap of chassis rot on my disco 1,it's already been patched really bad and caused it to go like it has and runs half way down the chassis from the rear, what would be the best most cost effective way to solve this or can anyone link me to a galvi chassis pictures below
 

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Assuming you don't scrap the car, whatever else happens, someone is going to need to clean that all up before its welded, so that may as well be you, now.

When it's clear you can get a better idea of what is going on, and go from there.
 
Is it worth fitting a galvanised chassis to a disco? Sell it for spares or repair and use chassis money to buy something else
 
Is it worth fitting a galvanised chassis to a disco? Sell it for spares or repair and use chassis money to buy something else

People do, but I kind of don't see why. So much of the discos body is rust prone steel that a shiny chassis would only be a shiny chassis. All the rest of it would still be happily turning to dust!

We have a 300tdi disco. Without a welder, they're expensive cars to keep.
 
People do, but I kind of don't see why. So much of the discos body is rust prone steel that a shiny chassis would only be a shiny chassis. All the rest of it would still be happily turning to dust!

We have a 300tdi disco. Without a welder, they're expensive cars to keep.
Exactly, if the chassis is that bad what's the boot floor, sills and arches like. Discoverys aren't like defenders when it comes to galv chassis resale valves. If it were me I'd stick it on eBay and buy a replacement with a good chassis, you'd certainly be in series 2 territory price wise.
 
Mot failure 300s seem to sell for about £400/450.

Facebook selling sites are also worth a go.

But...

Chassis welding isnt that troublesome, compared to, say, sills & body mounts, or arches etc. Most chassis stuff is cut out the rot, and then let in a flat plate. There's not so many curves etc. involved, and access is generally good. People plate over rot, but, whilst that will get a pass, its temporary (i reckon 3 years). Do a good job and something else will write off the vehicle first.

But it will be the same for next year's mot also. If i had a fail [that i wanted shot of] id probably weld it up, get a pass, and then sell it with an honest description. A long mot disco 300 in a rough condition is probably still 800/850 - more if it look a bit shiny?
 
ps none of the welds you have in your photos are difficult jobs. access is good on all of them.

but...

Are these just ones you personally have spotted, or are these ones that an mot tester has spotted? if the former, then id look at the rest *very* hard before spending time on it, as there may be a whole load more that an MOT man would spot, but you have not (yet) seen.

These may be much more difficult, and push it over the edge for you. Like i said before, mounts, arches, rot behind the springs, etc.etc. are all harder jobs than the ones in your photos.

You need to check all the other places *well* before making your choice. Dont be tame with the screwdriver either, as the MOT man wont be.
 
id say thats beyond reasonable diy repair ,a half chassis or a good second hand chassis or break would be my answer
 

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