Landyjd

Active Member

• Jul 22, 2021

• #1

I will soon be removing the bulkhead from my Defender with the aim of getting it galvanised and have a few queries:

Can anyone tell me what seals and parts I should aim to get in advance before refitting the bulkhead and windscreen? So far I have identified:
- bulkhead to windscreen seal
- vent flap seals
- gaskets for windscreen brackets
- windscreen to roof seals (inner and outer)

Will I also need a seal for where the transmission tunnel meets the bulkhead? Any other items recommended?

Does anyone has any tips for removing any paint/coatings inside the bulkhead cavities before the acid dip and galvanising? Did Land Rover paint the inside of the bulkhead on 300Tdi's?

Thanks in advance.

 

L

lynall

Well-Known Member

Full Member

• Jul 22, 2021

• #2

Heater to bulkhead foam seal, can make your own from neoprene.

 

turrican

Well-Known Member

• Jul 22, 2021

• #3

Brake and clutch pipe clips.
Wiring loom and cable clips.
Rubber grommets for wires leading to door for interior light switch.
Rubber blank grommet for holes near wipers.
Seam sealer or alternative as you will need to remove any existing sealer before galvanized.
Brake & clutch pedal rubber gaskets.

A few things I did on mine before galvanized, I got it shot blasted, drilled extra holes in the box section and fitted a bracing bar across the bottom to prevent warping.

 

turrican

Well-Known Member

• Jul 22, 2021

• #4

Also, removed the vent grills before galvanizing and then reattached afterwards using tiger seal.

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Jul 22, 2021

• #5

I Made most of the gaskets from closed cell camping mat, glueing layers together for the heater box seal, also used it to redo the flaps in the heater box itself, worth stripping that down whilst it's off, you'll see the rubbish foam that LR used, turns to dust. Camping mat, glueing layers again, for the sound deadening below the gearlevers, under seatbox lids too. Windscreen hinges, I used rubber cut to size, pedalboxs I used cork sheet.
I cut the footwells out of my mint bulkhead to remove the rust trap double skin and made single skin new ones from 3mm plate and seam welded them in, then had it shotblasted and galved.
Still mint 18 yrs later.

 

Flossie

Well-Known Member

• Jul 22, 2021

• #6

Also, the flap pin holes can get blocked with galv and my rivnuts for the fuel filter, steering column etc were u/s afterwards so had to fit new ones, no biggy as a mate had a rivnut tool capable of fitting steel M10 rivnuts.
Putting bolts in didn't save mine.

 

L

Litch

Well-Known Member

• Jul 22, 2021

• #7

I have done a few very detailed replies about when I had my 300TDi bulkhead galvanised, just done a search and they come up easily.
Just search on "galvanised bulkhead" and if you like to filter further use my user-name "Litch".
Covers my experience on bracing, drilling additional holes, protecting threads, removal of vent mesh etc etc.

 

Landyjd

Active Member

• Jul 22, 2021

• #8

Litch said:

I have done a few very detailed replies about when I had my 300TDi bulkhead galvanised, just done a search and they come up easily.
Just search on "galvanised bulkhead" and if you like to filter further use my user-name "Litch".
Covers my experience on bracing, drilling additional holes, protecting threads, removal of vent mesh etc etc.

Click to expand...

Thanks very much