Pretty good video there, thanks for the link! I had no idea the pump had to be timed in too. I will check that and it looks pretty simple too.

I think I'm a little further forward however. Up till now I hadn't opened the injector pump up and fiddled with the internals, I only removed the cap on the top on the outside and altered the screw underneath there (to no avail so returned it to the original position). Using the link above I opened it all up and adjusted the internals. On removing the diaphragm with the eccentric on it it was clear that someone had moved it before - there were two marks on the angled surface. What I think may have happened is someone had turned it down rather than up, maybe the wrong way. So I replaced the eccentric creating maximum travel (the eccentric slanted to the rear of the unit) and also spun the gear a full turn clockwise. Then I put the unit back together and altered the top screw under the outer cap again.

On driving the car is a lot more powerful through the range. Specifically when the turbo kicks in (which is due to the position of the eccentric?)

Although I'm still not totally convinced as it still doesn't take hills in its stride at low down revs and now produces quite a lot of smoke at lower revs under load.

Having taken apart the injector pump a visual inspection revealed no reference marks for movement but the marks on the eccentric prove that it has been altered before. Could the other two alterations have been done wrong and be way off with no reference of the original location? Is there any way of measuring something else to "factory reset" the gear, eccentric and top screw?
 
The one bit that you cant actually check without removing the front cover is the camshaft timing. While the crank and pump may appear ok the cam can still be out. Not sure how well it would run if that was the case but something to bear in mind.
 
Forbes said:
Pretty good video there, thanks for the link! I had no idea the pump had to be timed in too. I will check that and it looks pretty simple too.

I think I'm a little further forward however. Up till now I hadn't opened the injector pump up and fiddled with the internals, I only removed the cap on the top on the outside and altered the screw underneath there (to no avail so returned it to the original position). Using the link above I opened it all up and adjusted the internals. On removing the diaphragm with the eccentric on it it was clear that someone had moved it before - there were two marks on the angled surface. What I think may have happened is someone had turned it down rather than up, maybe the wrong way. So I replaced the eccentric creating maximum travel (the eccentric slanted to the rear of the unit) and also spun the gear a full turn clockwise. Then I put the unit back together and altered the top screw under the outer cap again.

On driving the car is a lot more powerful through the range. Specifically when the turbo kicks in (which is due to the position of the eccentric?)

Although I'm still not totally convinced as it still doesn't take hills in its stride at low down revs and now produces quite a lot of smoke at lower revs under load.

Having taken apart the injector pump a visual inspection revealed no reference marks for movement but the marks on the eccentric prove that it has been altered before. Could the other two alterations have been done wrong and be way off with no reference of the original location? Is there any way of measuring something else to "factory reset" the gear, eccentric and top screw?
Click to expand...

Typically the eccentric fuel pin will be set about halfway between min and max from the factory. In order to get maximum fuel on boost you need to rotate it so that the deepest part of the pin faces directly towards the front of the vehicle.

The star wheel is more difficult to reset to factory settings, but you could probably do it by accurately measuring the distance from the top of the wheel to the top face of the pump housing and comparing it with one which is known to be factory set.
 
Just a little update for you guys - I managed to get some time today and checked the pump timing. Everything seems spot on there.

My only other thinking would be the timing belt out by a tooth or two. Is there any way to check this without dismantling half of the front of the engine?
 
You can check the cam timing if you have a degree wheel for the crank and a DTi on the No1 intake valve. if you have this type of kit (and know how to use it) then you would be looking for max valve lift at 103 degrees after TDC. However that is a fair bit of fiddling around and its probably just as easy / quicker to drop the front cover off
 
Aye, that sounds a bit too technical for the likes of a diy mechanic like myself.

One thing I've just checked - I just blanked off the air intake with my hand and the engine carries on running. The engine doesn't change note but I can tell you it's sucking hard as I can feel it trying to suck my hand in.

The top intercooler hose (to the intake manifold) collapses, maybe not fully though and the engine carries on running.

Also removing the air intake just before the turbo does not affect power or make anything better. Could this indicate a split somewhere?
 
If you did have a split or leak in the intercooler or associated pipework you can normally hear a 'whooshing' air sound when the turbo is on boost if it is a fairly big leak. A smaller leak wont produce he same sound but then again the performance drop wont be as great. It is possible that the air filter holder water drain valve aka 'fanny valve' has perished and is not sealing properly. That may be allow sufficient air in when you have your hand over the intake to allow the engine to run at tick over. If I were you I'd check the basics first, pump and cam timing (front cover off), that will also allow you to have a look at the cambelt condition or even change it if you don't know its age. Also check valve clearances. With that done you know the basic engine settings are correct so you can tick them off the list
 
Just a wee update for everyone...

I fitted the new downpipe to make sure that wasn't the issue - the problem is still there.

I've also taken off and checked all the intercooler pipes and they are all ok.

I phoned my local (ish) land rover specialist and they said that they were on a 2-3 weeks waiting list to be seen so they could check the timing and have a look at doing a compression test. I don't actually think the compression test will show anything wrong as when I take the oil cap off when the engine is running there is no noticeable pulsing of air from it which would indicate that the piston rings were ok?

So I've been thinking it might be air in the fuel lines as starting from cold is getting pretty bad. It take quite a while turning the engine over and lots of pumping the accelerator pedal. When it starts I also need to give it quite a lot of accelerator pedal to keep it going and it seems to run pretty rough and chuck out a fair bit of grey smoke. The revs are really slow to respond whilst cold and sounds like it is retarded in some way, which led me to think of fuel lines.

I checked the fuel line from tank to lift pump and injector pump back to tank and they seem fine (no sediment fitted) but when I checked the leak off pipes they are in pretty poor condition so I'll get some new ones fitted asap.

The power seems to get better when the engine is warmer - but I still feel it is underpowered a lot especially at the low end. Could the leak off pipes be a realistic cause?
 
Leak-off pipes could be the cause of bad starting in the morning. If they are perished. they can allow air in which lets the fuel drain back to the tank but not enough to leak fuel out. That means fuel has to be pumped from tank to FIP before it will start.
 
I replaced the leak off pipes yesterday which has helped with the general time to start the engine. Power problems still there as much as ever. I have booked it into the garage on Tuesday to check the timing and if that is out check the fuel lines and compression test - fault find basically.

I drove a friends defender and all I can say is wow, it was amazing. Felt so responsive on the throttle and had loads of low grunt and torque. Completely opposite to mine. Also I realised that it is running very quite compared to his and lots of black smoke, and extremely retarded feeling to it.
 
Ok, so the garage have finally had a chance to look at the 110, they say they are suspecting the VNT Turbo is at fault. There is exhaust gasses escaping out of the middle of the housing where the shafts are.

I have checked boost pressure from the vacuum hose from the wastegate to the injector pump and all was well. Even with a leak could this be the cause of all my problems?

I've looked at a new VNT and I'm looking at having to shell out the best part or a grand... which obviously I could do without!
 
Forbes said:
Ok, so the garage have finally had a chance to look at the 110, they say they are suspecting the VNT Turbo is at fault. There is exhaust gasses escaping out of the middle of the housing where the shafts are.

I have checked boost pressure from the vacuum hose from the wastegate to the injector pump and all was well. Even with a leak could this be the cause of all my problems?

I've looked at a new VNT and I'm looking at having to shell out the best part or a grand... which obviously I could do without!
Click to expand...

did you do what #2 said? hook up the gauge and test under load. ie when driving up a hill.

revving it at standstill isn't very good at all
 
Yeah, plumbed it all in and took her for a drive around, including hills up and down. Pressure was absolutely spot on.
 
My mates 200 tdi was like yours, we changed the lift pump and injection pump and it was fine after,

Just another suggestion? Water in the diesel?
 
Forbes said:
Yeah, plumbed it all in and took her for a drive around, including hills up and down. Pressure was absolutely spot on.
Click to expand...

then if the vnt is leaking.. does it matter? As if it produced more boost the wastegate would open and dump it anyway.

pull the hose off after the turbo.. does it make a difference?

also, on the 300 i'd plumb the gauge into the blank on the intake. it's on the back of it towards the bulkhead. that way you get the pressure just before it enters. m12 x 1.5 banjo iirc. 4mm hose will do
 
Last edited:
Unfortunately I've already fitted a new lift pump and changed the filter. Even tested the lift pump to see if it was fitted correctly by loosening the inlet banjo on the filter housing, and diesel flew out everywhere so seems like that's all ok.
 
Trax - that's what I thought with the turbo. Yes perhaps it shouldn't be leaking but if I'm getting correct boosting pressure then surely everything internally air pressure wise is working as it should be. I'm not sure it's the turbo as you can feel and hear it working and the pressures are correct to the book. Also I've had the air intake pipe off and there is no play in the spindle.
 
Forbes said:
Trax - that's what I thought with the turbo. Yes perhaps it shouldn't be leaking but if I'm getting correct boosting pressure then surely everything internally air pressure wise is working as it should be. I'm not sure it's the turbo as you can feel and hear it working and the pressures are correct to the book. Also I've had the air intake pipe off and there is no play in the spindle.
Click to expand...

guess you've done the normal. done tappets, changed fuel filters (use a brand not cheapy as they are known to leak) give it a service.

have you ran some clear pipe between the filter and pump yet to look for air?

did you say it smoked under load going up a hill?

does it breathe heavily via the oil filler?
 
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