warrior said:

Just had a quick look, it looks black but it's well set back into the sensor in it that makes sense, not as I obvious an in pictures I've seen on google

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warrior said:

I'm not convinced my 300 tdi temp gauge is reading correct,

Its a 300 tdi defender ( genuie) but had then engine changed for a newer 300 at done point in its life,

I've read that disco sender in a fender will read high, how can I tell which I've got?

Or what resistance reading should I get?

Next step to put my digital gauge on out of tool box from work and go fir a drive,

All is new, head gasket just done snd head tested rads bin changed water pump has bin changed

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Dippypud said:

which temp sender is fitted, there are 2, both have a plastic insert around the terminal

Green is AMR1425

Black is AMR3321

From the web ...

"the temperature sensor ( green top ) will not work with earlier instruments and 200TDI or V8 sensor will not fit in the 300TDI engine, the solution is to use the white top sensor from the little MPI petrol engine no YCP10019 or no 8510273 that goes straight in the 300 TDI and works perfectly no need to change dial or anything.

More likely works when putting a 300TDI in an earlier Defender

This will give -
-middle of gauge 88deg c opening of thermostat

-little over middle 95 fully open thermostat

-full deflection just before red 108 boiling point of 50\50 antifreeze water with cap off

-well into red 120 boiling point of 50\50 with cap on

- the 300TDI alternator runs faster than the 200 TDI one and therefore the revcounter reads about 6% fast.

The solution is replace the 49mm pulley with one from the Range Rover V 8 with AMR 2938 alternator which is 52 mm over the grooves which approx 6 % large , problem solved
This more than likely works when putting a 300TDI in an earlier Defender.
- the rest of the conversion is easy but it is best to use a donor 300TDI Discovery to get all the parts necessary, ie gearbox support bracket for 380 gearbox , exhaust brackets (the chassis locations are the same ) and lots of small parts

-Use a 300TDI engine harness and starter cable and connect the generator to the battery through a 300TDI fuse box "

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Dippypud said:

Fit the sender unit and the gauge from the original engine. They are matched.

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warrior said:

Where did you copy that from? I've already seen that tonight somewhere eles



I've owned the Landy for 3 years and have had over heating problems, never boiled over gauge just climbs up and it's random, some days it's ok some days it creeps up,

50 on the motorway about 0.8 bar of boost it will go a shade over half just sits a shade under half around town, push to 60/65 1.1 bar of boost and temp gauge climbs to just over 3/4 then I have seen it and backed off, don't know if it will keep climbing if I keep my boot down, put the heaters on and I don't think its overly hot and it cools down within a mile,

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warrior said:

Where did you copy that from? I've already seen that tonight somewhere else

It's from LZ somewhere, prolly 300tdi engine section...

I've owned the Landy for 3 years and have had over heating problems, never boiled over gauge just climbs up and it's random, some days it's ok some days it creeps up,

50 on the motorway about 0.8 bar of boost it will go a shade over half just sits a shade under half around town, push to 60/65 1.1 bar of boost and temp gauge climbs to just over 3/4 then I have seen it and backed off, don't know if it will keep climbing if I keep my boot down, put the heaters on and I don't think its overly hot and it cools down within a mile,

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trax said:

has it just started happening?

a bad earth can allow current to go via the dials and bump them up. try turning your heater blower on full and see if it makes the gauges rise.

earth point is on the bulkhead right of the brake servo

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