Steviecops

Steviecops

Active Member
Full Member
I'm going to be changing my timing belt within the next week or two. I'm expecting the crank pulley nut to be hard to get off, so I want to use the breaker against the chassis method to undo it. Trouble is, I've got the tamper proof fuel cut off solenoid on my engine, so won't be able to pull the wire off to prevent the engine from starting. Any suggestions as to how I can get round this will be greatly appreciated. I don't want to butcher the solenoid or replace it.
 
Yeah, just spoken to my local mechanic, being rural, he does lots of land rovers including his own. He said he wouldn't recommend that method as it can go wrong...and laughed. He said he normally puts them in gear and uses a long breaker bar on them and they normally come loose without any problems.
 
IMHO, avoid any potential pitfalls, and use the right locking tools.... they are cheap on the bay - way cheaper than having to fix anything you break doing the breaker bar on chassis bodge.
 
Disco1BFG said:
IMHO, avoid any potential pitfalls, and use the right locking tools.... they are cheap on the bay - way cheaper than having to fix anything you break doing the breaker bar on chassis bodge.
Click to expand...
The correct tool is £60! Ok, still cheaper than fixing anything you break, but a lot of money just the same. I've got the correct locking pins, but the flywheel pin isn't strong enough to do the job. Haynes manual says, if you haven't got the £60 tool, put car in diff lock, low range and first gear, then use a long bar. That's the way I'm going to go.
 
I knocked the special tool up in 1/2 HR or so out of bits of scrap.
Can you get access to a welder?
Mines a bit rough and ready and was just meant to be a prototype but worked really well so never made a pretty one!
I can go get a pic if it helps?
 
Bit late now to go searching in me man cave.
I'll sort it in the morning for you.
You have to take the pully off first (4 bolts) to use it but I think you have to do that with the proper tool anyway?
The pully, or rather the back of it, is needed for a template.
 
Oops! My bad...I fort it was a 200tdi:oops:
Does the 300 pully bolt off like the 200?
Leaving the damper and the crank bolt in place?
@neilly
 
Just had another (proper ish) look.
That tool is far to fancy.
As long as the 300 pully comes off leaving 4 bolt holes aka 200, my back yard bag of crap works faultlessly.
That wasn't me at lz12 it was my drunk twin brother:rolleyes:
 
Two bits of 25mm angle welded into a vee cut into a piece of 50mm box. Angle was cut away to fit around the damper 'nose'.
It all could have been made out of flat i guess but I didn't have any, just what I had in my scrap bin.
IMG_20170211_085744212.jpg
IMG_20170211_085827494.jpg
 
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