T

touchwood

Member
Hello all my first time in here so be gentle! Got myself a 95 300 tdi discovery. Just done head gasket and belts Inc tensioner etc. Been fine for 200 miles. Then the engine started to knock. I thought it was pump timing so I advanced and then retarded it but noise is still there. Thought could be one of the valve caps had jumped off but they are all fine. Push rods are fine. could anybody think of anything else to try? Noise sounds like it's coming from front of engine. Wouldn't say it was crank as it doesn't get louder when reved. Sounds like an old transit! Any help would be appreciated

Cheers
Rob
 
When I first did the belt it ran fine but smoked badly so I adjusted the pump a smidge and it was fine, no smoke and plenty of power. I haven't had the front cover off since doing belt. Are you thinking it might have jumped a tooth?
 
I'd be tempted to take it all apart and double check, doesn't take too long, probably the simplest thing to eliminate! It will knock like hell if you advance the pump timing too far, but just a smidge should be fine. Double check it and let us know how you get on :)
 
I had the same issue as you when I did mine, smoked heavily plus lack of power. What happens is that the pumps wear internally over time, and so the timing setting according to the pump key-way are incorrect. To overcome this you do as you did, advance the pump timing slightly. I would also double check that you tightened up the 3 small pump bolts after you advanced the timing, guess that's the easiest thing you could do first.
 
3 bolts are defo tight. Adjusted timing at the pump about 10 times it's defently not pump timing, but the cam timing could be out. Will have to take front casings off to check!

How do I check the vacume pump?
 
Yes my money is on cam timing then, use a digital camera to check the timing, its the most accurate way I found! As for the vacuum pump, you'll be able to hear it knocking from that general direction, and it will often leak oil. Mine was leaking quite badly when I changed it! So first thing's first, cam timing :)
 
Interesting thread this.

If timing is correct with pins, how can timing be checked.
To adjust is is a case of loosening the 3 bolts on the injection pump or can it be done any other way.

Mine has a knock too. Mine sounds like a knocking under load, but backs off when off the power.

Can't manage to locate it at idle speed.

Mark
 
Just to add to the confusion , check the crank( timing belt ) pulley and polly vee pulley are not rattling on the crank . this will show up as the timing moving , but will also be wearing away at the crank shaft . I've had to repair a few like this with chemical metal . Good luck what ever the cause .
 
elsie said:
Just to add to the confusion , check the crank( timing belt ) pulley and polly vee pulley are not rattling on the crank . this will show up as the timing moving , but will also be wearing away at the crank shaft . I've had to repair a few like this with chemical metal . Good luck what ever the cause .
Click to expand...

Very good point actually, if the crank shaft pulley bolt isn't tight enough, the pulley can move about a bit, causing the woodruff key to wear away the little groove in the crank, hence allowing the pulley to move even more which puts the timing out. That would be my next port of call if the cam timing is good...did you replace the woodruff key when you changed the belt?
 
Did not change woodruff key have run engine with no alternator belt and no bottom pulley. noise is still there! Just thinking about it I didn't change crank timing pulley as it didn't want to come off! Will find out more when front timing cover is removed! Fingers crossed I'll have time Wednesday!
 
touchwood said:
Did not change woodruff key have run engine with no alternator belt and no bottom pulley. noise is still there! Just thinking about it I didn't change crank timing pulley as it didn't want to come off! Will find out more when front timing cover is removed! Fingers crossed I'll have time Wednesday!
Click to expand...

No it's a bugger to get off! I made a puller with a big old spanner and some long bolts I had that had the correct thread....by faffing around using other methods you'll more than likely smack and damage your radiator. When you put the crank bolt back on, how tight did you do it?
 
Finially sorted! The problem was the cambelt idler pulley had worked loose! Causing the camshaft to jump a tooth. Half the belt was missing! I was very lucky it didn't snap! Redone it now using locktight! Fingers crossed should be all good now!
 
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