pezza said:
Thanks again Dave, Just done some more testing and it seems to loose power at 2,700rpm in ALL gears, it will rev freely up to there and then just DIE...once under 2,500rpm it will hold nicely again. When it dies it seems to almost backfire and you have to remove foot of pedal.....any ideas ??

Dave enjoy the Biking !!!
Click to expand...

Hi there, two things to check:

1. Good reliable delivery of fuel?? Check fuel filter & sedimenter;

2. Check exterior & interior of turbo hoses.

It'll be something simple, do the above & it will almost certainly be fixed.

Right, I'm off, good luck

Cheers
Dave
 
Dave,

I hope you enjoyed your holiday !

I have been busy this end, removed Viscous running quieter and with more rev range, replaced all Turbo hoses and completely removed EGR and blanked on to engine to make it look tidier.

BUT, the damn thing stills coughes at around 3,000rpm now, big puff of smoke from back and dies down, I them have to pick up slowley from 2000rpm.

Any ideas this time, I have a new lift pump and will do the sedimenter next, the smoke just concerns me as I heard something about the turbo may do this?

Thanks

Pezza
 
pezza said:
Dave,

I hope you enjoyed your holiday !

I have been busy this end, removed Viscous running quieter and with more rev range, replaced all Turbo hoses and completely removed EGR and blanked on to engine to make it look tidier.

BUT, the damn thing stills coughes at around 3,000rpm now, big puff of smoke from back and dies down, I them have to pick up slowley from 2000rpm.

Any ideas this time, I have a new lift pump and will do the sedimenter next, the smoke just concerns me as I heard something about the turbo may do this?

Thanks

Pezza
Click to expand...

Hi Pezza, how's it hanging?

The first, easiest and cheapest thing I would do is to check the fuel sedimentor.

If you're not familiar with it, it's a filter-looking device fitted to the drivers' side of the chassis just about by the rear wheel.

You need to take the bowl off to check and clean it. It will come off once you have removed the bolt (11mm iirc) from the top centre of the unit.

The bowl on mine was in two parts with rubber washers between each mating face.

Be ready with a catch tank as there will be about half a litre of fuel to deal with. I used an empty plastic ice cream box.

Once you have it off (yes I could have phrased that better !!) you may find an assortment of various different types of crud - clean thoroughly and reassemble.

When you re-start the engine be ready to give it some accelerator, to help drag the fuel through and refill the sedimentor.

Hopefully that will solve things it ususally does, but if it doesn't at least you will have eliminated a common source of trouble.

Try this and see how you go,

Good luck

Dave

PS Yes, the holiday was great, average 33°C and fantastic mountain roads to yomp the Bandit up & down on :D :D
 
Glad to see the holiday was somewhere cold and damp.....!!!
I will do the sedimenter this weekend, I certainly need to try as I now have a smell of diesel ?? Since I removed the EGR unit and replaced the Intercooler pipes.
I have checked under the bonnet and all seems good, but my fuel seems to be dropping like a rock !

I will remember to be careful of spillage when i have it off...?? Back to teenage years then !

I will let you know on the next stage, you should set up your own consultancy for Disco Virgins !

Thanks Mate !!
 
pezza said:
Glad to see the holiday was somewhere cold and damp.....!!!
I will do the sedimenter this weekend, I certainly need to try as I now have a smell of diesel ?? Since I removed the EGR unit and replaced the Intercooler pipes.
I have checked under the bonnet and all seems good, but my fuel seems to be dropping like a rock !

I will remember to be careful of spillage when i have it off...?? Back to teenage years then !

I will let you know on the next stage, you should set up your own consultancy for Disco Virgins !

Thanks Mate !!
Click to expand...

Hi Pezza, this is Dave's Discos calling !!!!!

On the subject of a diesel smell, can I reccomend that you take a look at the pipes coming out of the tank.

To do this you will need to lift the carpet & rubber underlay in the boot, to get at the boot floor. There (towards the rear door) you will find a circular inspection hatch about 9 inches in diam. Undo the screws, remove the panel et voila!! the top of the fuel tank with it's two or 3 pipe connections - if it's all dry here then all is well.

After that it's a process of elimination I'm afraid. Check for leaks at the sedimenter then move forward to the fuel filter, lift pump & finally the injection pump.

If you are losing lots, it will be obvious where it's coming from.

Cheers & good luck

Dave
 
Dave, how's it going? I have done the sedimenter,new lift pump, bleed system and guess what...still dies at 3,000rpm....any idea next ? Someone mentioned airflow meter. Damn expensive so hope he's wrong?

So over to Daves Discos or anyone who can help ???? PLEASE !!!
 
pezza said:
Dave, how's it going? I have done the sedimenter,new lift pump, bleed system and guess what...still dies at 3,000rpm....any idea next ? Someone mentioned airflow meter. Damn expensive so hope he's wrong?

So over to Daves Discos or anyone who can help ???? PLEASE !!!
Click to expand...


Hiya Pezza, I've been racking my brains but I can't think of anything alse obvious to check, sorry.

The only thought that did come to my mind (not that I'm experienced in this) is that you will have a fly-by-wire accelerator pedal and I just wonder if that is anything to do with it.

For example, if while the car is in neutral and stationary, you gradually depress the pedal, do they revs rise normally and do they go past 3000rpm without a hiccup?? Or, does this only occur under load?
Cheers
Dave
 
Thanks Dave...the accelerator seems smooth and works fine across the range, I did have a thought after hours of internet trawling last night, not a nice one....what experience have you with Wastegate on the Turbo ?

Even my local independant is foxed on this one !!

Thanks for any help...

Perry
 
pezza said:
Thanks Dave...the accelerator seems smooth and works fine across the range, I did have a thought after hours of internet trawling last night, not a nice one....what experience have you with Wastegate on the Turbo ?

Even my local independant is foxed on this one !!

Thanks for any help...

Perry
Click to expand...

Hi Perry, so just to be clear then, at standstill and in neutral, you CAN rev the engine to 4000+rpms without problem??

Dave
 
Hi
I know its a bit late on in the thred but before I got my TD5 I went down to
Cormwall approx 350 mile in one go (from Hull) pulling 1050 kg my caravan with 2 adults 3 kids and a roof box,. I noticed that at the recomended 60 mph the rev counter was just hovering above 2000rpm on the flat but as soon as I encountered any incline the car just slowed down and before I knew it I was
at 30 miles per hour on some of the hills especially on the M5 in third gear. After a couple of hills I determined that as you approach the hills nudge the speed upto 70 ish and then the revs go to about 2500 ish and the turbo seems to be on the boil at that speed and I found that if I kept my foot planted I could even reach the top of the hill pushing nearly 80 mph. just a to note that my disco was totally standard with a once yearly service and I still acheived approx 25 mpg, not quite the same in my TD5 but you can still appy the same method just that you dont need to do it as often
 
Hi,

Just got my first disco a couple of weeks back and I have noticed I have a similar if a bit more dramatic problem but this is just through normal driving. If I accelerate hard I find that the performance drops off completely (almost like when you hit a rev limiter - nothing extra happens however much throttle you apply) and the temperature gauge shoots up, if you easy back to normal gentle acceleration the temperature drops back almost immediately. I'm going to check the things mentioned in the thread sedimentor etc over the weekend but I can't see how these could effect the temperature so dramatically.
 
jimb0jumb0 said:
Hi,

Just got my first disco a couple of weeks back and I have noticed I have a similar if a bit more dramatic problem but this is just through normal driving. If I accelerate hard I find that the performance drops off completely (almost like when you hit a rev limiter - nothing extra happens however much throttle you apply) and the temperature gauge shoots up, if you easy back to normal gentle acceleration the temperature drops back almost immediately. I'm going to check the things mentioned in the thread sedimentor etc over the weekend but I can't see how these could effect the temperature so dramatically.
Click to expand...

This sounds to me like you may have a head gasket problem, it's not like the problem on this thread.

1. Whilst the engine is ticking over at standstill, open the header tank cap and look inside to see if there are any bubles coming through - get someone to rev the engine a bita see if any bubbles come;

2. take off the oil filler cap and look to see if there is any mayonnaise-looking stuff there.

Report back when you've done this and we'll take it further.

Cheers
Dave
 
jimb0jumb0 said:
Hi,

Just got my first disco a couple of weeks back and I have noticed I have a similar if a bit more dramatic problem but this is just through normal driving. If I accelerate hard I find that the performance drops off completely (almost like when you hit a rev limiter - nothing extra happens however much throttle you apply) and the temperature gauge shoots up, if you easy back to normal gentle acceleration the temperature drops back almost immediately. I'm going to check the things mentioned in the thread sedimentor etc over the weekend but I can't see how these could effect the temperature so dramatically.
Click to expand...

on the 300 the wire from the temp sensor is quite near the fuel pump/throttle body... the wire aint caught around it ..is it?
 
thebiglad said:
Hi Perry, so just to be clear then, at standstill and in neutral, you CAN rev the engine to 4000+rpms without problem??

Dave
Click to expand...


Dave, and others

You are totally right, I CAN rev freely over 4,000rpm with no problems at all when in neutral, BUT not on the road ?
Also considering I have De-cated, De-EGR'd, Replaced all Turbo hoses, new filters, new fuel lines and bled, removed Viscous, I still only manage 26-27mpg driving carefully and its not really that zippy (as much as you expect for a 4x4) ????????????????

I am using no oil, water and its not going over half on temp, dont use Air-con at all...you get the picture.

Thanks Everyone out there..........
 
pezza said:
Dave, and others

You are totally right, I CAN rev freely over 4,000rpm with no problems at all when in neutral, BUT not on the road ?
Also considering I have De-cated, De-EGR'd, Replaced all Turbo hoses, new filters, new fuel lines and bled, removed Viscous, I still only manage 26-27mpg driving carefully and its not really that zippy (as much as you expect for a 4x4) ????????????????

I am using no oil, water and its not going over half on temp, dont use Air-con at all...you get the picture.

Thanks Everyone out there..........
Click to expand...


Ok Perry, so if I understand the overall position correctly, it is as follows.

1. Under load (ie on the road) she won't rev over 3000rpm &

2. Fuel consumption is only modest at best, considoring all the mods you've done.


Right, re point number one, find yourself a quiet safe bit of road, run at the 30mph in drive then select 2. Progressively apply the accelerator until flat to the floor - you should be doing between 50-60mph now and revs should be, from memory, about 4,000rpm. Is that what you find with your car??

Re mpg, I took an overall approach to getting mine to run efficiently.

For instance, I use synthetic oils everywhere, engine, gearbox, transbox and axles. Mine is an auto so it has EDC and 122bhp as std. I run the tyres at 2.5bar all round. The air filter is changed every oil change which I do at every 5000mls.

The brakes are checked regularly and pads replaced when they show signs of wear, so the caliper pistons stay in good operating shape and don't bind.

Also, my cars don't spend hardly any time in traffic (because there is none round where I live) and most of the journeys I do are perhaps slightly longer than the norm. However, to conteract that, I tow quite often and yesterday for example, I did two trips with the horse trailer, to collect a new agricultural building, the first trip had a total load of about 3.5tons exclu the car, the second was slightly lighter at perhaps 2.5tons. Round trip each time maybe 40 mls.

What I'm trying to say is that my usuage may be different to yours, but on a daily average we get about 36 out of the tdi 200 and about 34mpg out of the 300 auto.

On a run both will give near to or above 40mpg !! Smooth running, at about 60ish mph.


Try the test and report back.

Cheers
Dave
 
Dave,
Answers as follows:

When doing point one engine still dies as before...

I think mine is Edc also and auto, engine oil is quality..not done gearbox as it's nice and pink....I rarely put vehicle any load and all as before, but on last fill my mpg is going 25-26 max. I drive with light foot also.
Spoke to turbo specialist today....does not reckon much wrong because of smoke only when loaded and not from cold...did suggest injection pump ?

Not sure where to go next apart from main rip off dealer !

I am in your hands !!!!!
 
pezza said:
Dave,
Answers as follows:

When doing point one engine still dies as before...

I think mine is Edc also and auto, engine oil is quality..not done gearbox as it's nice and pink....I rarely put vehicle any load and all as before, but on last fill my mpg is going 25-26 max. I drive with light foot also.
Spoke to turbo specialist today....does not reckon much wrong because of smoke only when loaded and not from cold...did suggest injection pump ?

Not sure where to go next apart from main rip off dealer !

I am in your hands !!!!![/quote]



Well if that's the case mate - you're really in the sh1t !!!!!!!

I'm sorry to say that the only thing that comes to mind is the wastegate and whether that is working/adjusted correctly.

Do you have a Haynes, because in there it will tell you where the wastegate is and what setting it should be at.

Basically, you have a threaded adjusting rod and nut. First ensure that it is actually connected.

Then disconnect (making a very careful note of how many turns on the nut to undo it) and try it's operation, I believe (note the hint of uncertainty) it's possible to move the wastegate to check it's operation.

Also, with the engine ticking over, run your hand and ear around where the exhaust manifold and turbo are and check for leaks.

I'm groping in the dark, you can tell can't you.................

Can't think of anythng else at the mo'

Cheers
Dave
Click to expand...
 
Dave, Batenberg,

Thanks for your help, problem solved (I hope!!). Problem was two-fold.

The overheating was caused by a lack of coolant. When I checked for bubbles I found the expansion tank was empty. It took a bit of time but I eventually found that the expansion tank had developed a small split in it which only leaked when the expansion tank was under pressure.

The poor performance seems to be caused by gunk in the fuel filter. I drained it and allsorts fell out. Next job will be to clean out the sedimentor and fit a new fuel filter.

Thanks again!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
To the end of the earth and back again.
Replies
1
Views
672
chromiumuk
chromiumuk