sierrafery
Well-Known Member
:amen: that's a good point... though which wire goes to earth is completely irrelevant cos the resistances would be the same being a serial connection
:amen: that's a good point... though which wire goes to earth is completely irrelevant cos the resistances would be the same being a serial connection
Lol, yeh..I brought up the point as I did the splice in originally leaving the multi plug connection in circuit and got some very strange readings on multi meter. Your drawing was very helpful in clearing my head.
Hello to all on this topic and thanks especially to Sierrafery for the drawing. I carried out the wiring mod on my spare shuttle valve unit 2 weeks ago and to date all is OK and NO 3 Amigos. Only slight variation to the wiring mod is that I did not cut the yellow/green wire in the loom, just crimped into it to preserve the integrity of the loom just in case. As the wire is effectively disconnected inside the modulator when the mod is carried out I saw no need to cut it. The other wire (earth) was taken to the earth stud at the front bulkhead adjacent to the air filter to keep the run as short as possible.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
there can be a problem this way if there is some fluid leak into the internal circuit and gives some resistance to earth on that side then it will affect the SVSs resistance as being a parasitic resistance in parallel with the switches if you see what i mean.
I've done a few of these, and in all cases the problem with the shuttle switch assembly contacts was entirely down to corrosion on the PCB pins and the receptacle sockets being loose.
It's a bit fiddly but you can get a fine scriber point down the split sides of the contact sockets and make them tighter. If they are corroded then a piece of 1200 wet & dry dipped in WD-40 and rolled up small will clean them out, but don't go over the top.
The pins should be bright and shiny, not dull.
I've been lucky, no sensor or bearing issues, but with 164K on the clock that's going to happen sometime soon.
Peter
It's a bit fiddly but you can get a fine scriber point down the split sides of the contact sockets and make them tighter. If they are corroded then a piece of 1200 wet & dry dipped in WD-40 and rolled up small will clean them out, but don't go over the top.
The pins should be bright and shiny, not dull.
I've been lucky, no sensor or bearing issues, but with 164K on the clock that's going to happen sometime soon.
Peter
When I did mine I broke into the yellow / green wire and put a male / female pair of blade terminals in, then used the blade on the wire going to the ECU to connect to the relay. So if necessary it's an easy matter to revert to standard just by swapping over the blades.
rabbitwacker
Senior Member
I have been suffering the three amigos for some time, but it is cured now thanks to a guy on eBay called brickleton123
He has produced a kit with a new set of switches and the wiring mod described above with proper AMP connections, you need to pull a couple of pins on the multiplug but are given a new plug and socket to use instead.
Professional looking and no chance of resistance problems caused by using scotchlocks etc.
I cleared the fault codes and have not heard a peep from our three friends since !!!
He has produced a kit with a new set of switches and the wiring mod described above with proper AMP connections, you need to pull a couple of pins on the multiplug but are given a new plug and socket to use instead.
Professional looking and no chance of resistance problems caused by using scotchlocks etc.
I cleared the fault codes and have not heard a peep from our three friends since !!!
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Hi where is the drawing ?
brian47
Well-Known Member
Joemac434
Well-Known Member
I would listen to what sierraferrys says on this subject ,from what I've seen in here if you do exactly what he says it will fix the problem the easiest and proper way first time:amen: that's a good point... though which wire goes to earth is completely irrelevant cos the resistances would be the same being a serial connection
Joemac434
Well-Known Member
Bloody hell I'm answering years old threads again! Doh! Never mind stand by what i said ner ner
Exbootneck
Member
Hi fellas I too was getting the three amigos on a daily basis. I cleared them with my Autel ml619 scantool. I eventually cured the issued by flushing out and replacing all the brake fluid. What came out was dark and thick. Havent sern the amigos since.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Hi, you will see them soon again if all you did was to change the fluid cos the brake fluid's colour has nothing to do with the 3 amigos also clearing the fault doesnt fix the issue, on the contrary, by fixing the fault the amigos will go away too
Exbootneck
Member
The point of my post was to highlight that the fluid was contaminated and was causing the shuttle valves to stick hence why the shuttle valve switch was lighting up the warning light. I have now driven over 1500km without seeing the amigos.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Sorry but sticking valves or anything else which is hydraulically activated should not trigger 3 amigos, if the valves are let's say sticking and they don't actuate the switches then eventually the ABS will not kick in cos the ECU doesnt know that the pedal was depressed or the other way around if they are stuck as to keep the switches closed then the ABS might kick in when it's not needed cos the ECU will ''think" that the pedal is depressed but without any fault warning... when a SVS related fault code is stored it's about the electric input of those switches shown in the diagram few posts above and what the ECU gets from them regarding the pedal's position, the hydraulic part of the circuit is not covered by diagnostics.... if you know how the system works tell me one technicaly argumented scenario how dirty fluid can cause 3 amigos and i'll stand corrected
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