RustyAdds

Member
Good afternoon every one. Any help would be massively welcome.
Sooooooo, Managed to unplug one of the abs sensors down David Bowyers at the weekend, lights came on. Easy fix i was thinking, plug it back in and delete code and will be good.........How wrong was I!
Have a Pump fault 3
and sat on the drive truck thinks its doing 400KPH better than the 900KPH on one wheel Monday. Ive tried a different pump still the same. Unplugged sensors and dont get any more codes but wheel speeds still showing 400k.
I hope someone here has a suggestion for me.
Thanks in advance
 
When you say "managed to unplug" do you mean it was accidental? Perhaps stretched the wire? I'd say the first thing to do would be to replace that sensor.
 
Hi, Have you taken it for a drive after re-conecting? It needs time to recalibrate I believe.
Griff
 
Good afternoon every one. Any help would be massively welcome.
Sooooooo, Managed to unplug one of the abs sensors down David Bowyers at the weekend, lights came on. Easy fix i was thinking, plug it back in and delete code and will be good.........How wrong was I!
Have a Pump fault 3
and sat on the drive truck thinks its doing 400KPH better than the 900KPH on one wheel Monday. Ive tried a different pump still the same. Unplugged sensors and dont get any more codes but wheel speeds still showing 400k.
I hope someone here has a suggestion for me.
Thanks in advance
Hi. What kind of diagnostic tool you have? If it reads inputs check the sensor stationary voltage inputs albeit as no fault codes are stored with unplugged sensors seems very like faulty ECU
 
Hi. What kind of diagnostic tool you have? If it reads inputs check the sensor stationary voltage inputs albeit as no fault codes are stored with unplugged sensors seems very like faulty ECU
Ive tried a few different ones but can only get the Autel to connect at the min. Will try the Hawkeye again and have a look for voltages.
Thank you for the help
 
I'd have to be suspicious of the connector, cabling and sensor that was pulled apart. I always keep a known working sensor in the draw for comparison purposes. I'd have to assume a damaged conductor somewhere. Sorry to not be more help but go for the simple cheap checks first before things like the ECU.
 
I'd have to be suspicious of the connector, cabling and sensor that was pulled apart. I always keep a known working sensor in the draw for comparison purposes. I'd have to assume a damaged conductor somewhere. Sorry to not be more help but go for the simple cheap checks first before things like the ECU.
So how do you explain that a good ECU would not store a fault code on a sensor or wiring issue while the 3 amigos are on? ... SLABS ECU fault is not uncommon at all
 
Yes, but I always go for the cheap and easy to check components before I start changing ECUs.
To paraphrase Sherlock Holmes, once you have eliminated everything else, whatever is left must be the problem. And given that the fault occured directly after a connector pulled out I'd start there with my diagnostic sequence. So, are you recommending the OP goes out and buys an ECU just to eliminate the component?
Not everyone has an ECU on the shelf.
 
So, are you recommending the OP goes out and buys an ECU just to eliminate the component?
Yes i do, as that ECU is very suspect based on the described symptoms... that's what i'd do if it was my vehicle cos technically a good ECU would not miss to store an open circuit fault code with unplugged sensor nor show incredible speeds... provided the diagnostic tool was not wrong hence the first part of my reply about what king of tool was used and the live voltage readings from the sensors... if the situation will be the same with hawkeye which is accurate when it comes to ABS faults then insisting to find wiring issues or any other things while the ECU is not ruled out is a waste of time and energy IMO
 
Thank you to every one that has helped. Today i replaced the module behind the glove box and every thing is now back to normal. Thanks again for every ones time.
 

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