CakeBandit

Active Member
Hello, can anybody post a picture of your sliding window locks?
I have a button ratchet type for the very back windows, but nothing for the sliding windows on the 4 doors. The doors lock, but not the windows. I want to order part #332435. How does it work, is it easy to install, do I have to drill holes in the glass? Sorry for being such a ding a ling, but I don't want to order the wrong stuff. Help meee
1965 109'
 
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Don't have a picture (at the moment) but it works the same as the ones one the passenger door just push twist to lock. They rivit on the top rail of the door top. Series 2 door top have an extra plate welded on to carry the lock.
I believe the original glass had a hole for the lock plunger but I couldn't find any so just positioned the lock to block the sliding glass.
 
If parts are hard to get hold of, as they were over here a zillion years ago, I fitted a small hinge so that when it was flipped over it stopped the window from sliding. Got the idea from an early Mini that I had in the late 60's.
 
Don't have a picture (at the moment) but it works the same as the ones one the passenger door just push twist to lock. They rivit on the top rail of the door top. Series 2 door top have an extra plate welded on to carry the lock.
I believe the original glass had a hole for the lock plunger but I couldn't find any so just positioned the lock to block the sliding glass.

Don't know about extra plate :confused: Mine are fixed direct to the top rail.....the catch is formed to fit. My passenger side has a Series 3 top and is just drilled and riveted and you wouldn't know it from the other apart from the cut-out in the bottom rail
 
No holes to be drilled in the glass, its just pop riveted to the top rail. The pin comes out and stops the window sliding forward. Dead simple.

Apologies for the rubbish phone camera. Its pretty dingy in the garage so I hope this makes some sense. This is from the 2nd row doors from my '63 109 safari SW. The first row and the rear windows have the same arrangement.
 

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Thanx for all replies, and jcuk for taking time to upload the photos. I get how it works now, will be ordering 4 of them. Cheers all
 
Got a couple of locks, and ran into a small problem. The locks do not get flush with any of the door frames for pop riveting. Not sure as to why the window channel hangs out so far, anybody have any suggestions or might know what the problem is. The windows are all tight. I am guessing the rubber weather strip on the outside (pic attached) is supposed to there, even though I could not see it mentioned in the parts cat.

I could put a piece of wood or plastic in the channel of the lock as a filler to get it up against.
Maybe the channels are not up to 'spec' and are makeshift, if that might be the case I see a what appears to be a nice channel kit on ebay -

SERIES WINDOW CHANNELS & SPACERS (TWO COMPLETE SETS) | eBay

Suggestions?
 

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The channel is too deep. The window doesn't have the plate for the lock either.
Also, in your picture what's that along the top of the window, is that supposed to be there?

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The one pictured is the front door if a 2a 88. Mine doesn't have any opening windows at the back so don't know what mechanism would be.
The series 3 front doors have a stop that comes up from the bottom rather the the top. Would the back windows be the same?
 
I think your referring to the weather strip, hehe I think its supposed be there but not real sure, its working its way out. Thanks for the pic, I see your window lock just barley makes it flush, so I will just improvise a little maybe put a plastic spacer in between :)
 

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