pos

pos

Well-Known Member
Hello,

A slightly late merry Christmas to everyone :) I've just been out in the landy today and I noticed the temp gauge which usually sits at just over 1/4 reaching just over half way and doing so rather quickly. It's mated to the gauge from my old 2.5 N/A with a 2.5 temperature sender. I stopped straight away and removed my home made rad muff from the front and that seemed to solve the problem very quickly. I felt all the hoses, and both the hose to and from the radiator were very hot - so I assume that my rad muff was over restrictive!

The only two questions I have are:

1) What standard temperature does the 200TDi engine operate at, does it reach and exceed 100 degrees C?
2) Am I likely to have caused any damage to the engine? It didn't get anywhere near to 3/4 and it didn't boil over, although there was a little more pressure than usual when removing the header tank cap.

Cheers
-pos
 
Last edited:
Don't know what the actual temp is but on Monday last it took me 3.5 hours to do the 25 miles home in stop start queues and without a rad muff the temp guage sat where it normally does. Unless the temp go down way below -10 I wouldn't even bother with one. And at -10 and below i would worry about derv waxing more.
Unless you had lots of steam I wouldn't have thought you have done any damage.
when I get a chance I'll stick a guage on the top rad pipe and see what the operating temp is.
 
Cheers for that Pat :) Well I've taken the muff off now, and it wont be going back on (oo how rude!). I'll keep my eye on the system mind, just to make sure that theres nothing funny going on.

I'll flush all the coolant system out in a couple of weeks because I'm going to give the thing a good service, oils and fluids all around. I'll put some fresh anti-freeze in too.

-Pos
 
The temperature your engine is set to opperate at should be stamped onto the themostat (if you want to take it out !) - it should never run above 100deg C as this would just cause all the coolant to evaperate out of the system (there is always a bit of steam as a small amount manages to reach this temp (complicated physics why water starts evaperates at less what 100degC) - this is why it is a pressurised system to hold the bit of steam in and stop it getting out and you loosing collant.

Most engines run in the mid 80s deg C
 
Thanks for that. I always thought that the principal behind the thermostat was to ensure that the engine warms up to a good optimal temperature quick from cold as opposed to having the radiator immediately cool the engine down. I have an 86 degree stat in mine, which will obviously open once it reaches that temperature but it doesn't mean that it will keep the engine running right at that temperature? My old MK2 Golf ran at over 110 degrees C which was apparently normal. I suppose it's not pure water mind with all that anti-freeze mixed in.

-Pos
 
my 200 90 runs at 60 65c never gets hotter i now its cold out but never got above 80 when greenlaning last month. i thought the thermostat was stuck open but apparently it takes for ever for a 200 to warm up so ive been told so if thats the case my thermostat never really opens because it is a 88c jobby I LOVE THE 200 TDI ITS NOISY HAS **** BUT I LOVE IT SO RELIABLE
 
jamescronin said:
The temperature your engine is set to opperate at should be stamped onto the themostat (if you want to take it out !) -
Click to expand...

Not always the case. The difference between the stat temp and the running temp can be marked. Each engine makes its peak power at a specific temp. Rover V8s shouldn't be run over 80 Deg. The Honda K20 can happily run at 93. There can be trade offs between engine longevity though. This is due to expansion of disimilar metals affecting tollerences.

jamescronin said:
it should never run above 100deg C as this would just cause all the coolant to evaperate out of the system (there is always a bit of steam as a small amount manages to reach this temp (complicated physics why water starts evaperates at less what 100degC) - this is why it is a pressurised system to hold the bit of steam in and stop it getting out and you loosing collant.

Most engines run in the mid 80s deg C
Click to expand...

It's pressurised to help increase the boiling point of the coolant inside. (If you remove the rad cap on a hot engine you can reduce the boiling point to below the current temp and you end up with a geyser and burns) It also helps reduce cavitation. Some engines run coolant temps of 130Deg c with the coolant pressurised to 4Bar.:eek:
 
When water is pressurized the boiling point is raised, so the temperature of the fluid may be 110c but not necessarily boiling.

Water expands by 4% when heated-fact, but who knows how much pressure that actually produces in the system?

So if coolant/fluid was 110c and pressurized (not boiling tho :p) and the cap was removed the pressure would be released and then the fluids boiling point is dramatically dropped and would 'flash to steam' - instantly expanding when water turns to steam the volume of steam is massive compared to the fluid!
 
Pos have you got a 200tdi gauge in ya dash or a n/a temp sender in the enjun?

mine still has the TD gauge and sits in the black between the white and the red all the time.

Note to self must get a new gauge fitted...
 
iannotts said:
Pos have you got a 200tdi gauge in ya dash or a n/a temp sender in the enjun?

mine still has the TD gauge and sits in the black between the white and the red all the time.

Note to self must get a new gauge fitted...
Click to expand...

think pos went with the adapter that si used :D
 
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