Hello all,

my old defender project has been sitting mostly unused over the winter, but I was giving it a good run over the rough today when the clutch started to slip. The biting point does seem (today) to be right at the top. My first thought is that it may simply be worn out, but now, thinking about it, I'm not so sure.

The clutch pedal has always been stiff (as in, instead of feeling like a spring which requires the same force up and down, it feels heavy when pushing it down and light when it comes back up) but it does come all the way back up. I have notice before today that sometimes when I let the clutch out (particularly if it had been stood a while) that nothing happens for 1/2 a sec then suddenly it lurches off, but it hasn't slipped once it's going before today.

I asked the previous owner if he knew how old the clutch was and he was adamant that it's quite recent (replaced when they changed the gearbox) and not likely to be worn out - added that it was a 'heavy duty' clutch from Bearmach.

As the clutch is hydraulic I'm not sure what could be causing the stiffness, but before I start on hoiking the engine out, I was hoping (optimistically perhaps) that someone might suggest a cause and solution that can be dealt with without an engine hoist. Or at least confirm that I definitely need to get into the bellhousing - I don't want to do all that work only to find the problem is outside the BH.

thx
m

OK - have a run at the hydraulics before you do anything.

I recently had a similar problem on my 109 and it turned out the master cylinder had gone weird and was not releasing pressure properly. I might crack off the bleeder on the slave cylinder and see if it's under pressure - which could cause the clutch to not completely engage.

Check the free play of the master to the pedal as well - if it was replaced and not set up properly that could be the heart of your problem.

Another thing to check iis the flex hose - shooot it and replace it. i have seen those swell/degenerate internally in relatively unused vehicles and act like a restrictor/valve not permitting pressure to change in the system properly.

In any case, do have a look over the hydraulics before you hook out the engine.

Alan

Thanks Alan,
I hadn't heard of hydraulics going that way (more familiar with the pedal going to the floor without resistance failure), I'll have a look and keep my fingers crossed it's hydraulic.

The previous owner did mention having replaced the master cylinder I think, but the details of the conversation escape me.
m

Alan - you're a STAR!

whoever installed the master cylinder (previous owner himself I expect) hadn't set it up even close - once the clearance was adjusted to spec(1.5mm on the pushrod/ 6mm on the pedal) the locknuts were a good 5-6mm further up the pushrod from where they were. That added to the fact that the pedal pivot had gone stiff over winter resulted in the slip.

drives perfectly now - that and an engine removal safely avoided has made my day.

thanks very much.
m.