Thommo1 · May 22, 2017

On my Defender 200TDI engine I have an oil leak from the top oil cooler connection on the radiator. I’m hoping I can stop this by ‘nipping up’ the connection but the smaller hose on top is getting in the way of doing this. If I take this hose off does anyone know how much oil is going to come out (if any)? I’m guessing not much if the engine has cooled as a) it’s just an expansion overflow (I think) and b) it’s right at the top of the rad. Would I be right in thinking this?

Am I going about this the right though - should I take the connection out and reseal afresh?

Thanks for any advice in advance.

jamesmartin · May 22, 2017

Thommo1 said:
On my Defender 200TDI engine I have an oil leak from the top oil cooler connection on the radiator. I’m hoping I can stop this by ‘nipping up’ the connection but the smaller hose on top is getting in the way of doing this. If I take this hose off does anyone know how much oil is going to come out (if any)? I’m guessing not much if the engine has cooled as a) it’s just an expansion overflow (I think) and b) it’s right at the top of the rad. Would I be right in thinking this?

Am I going about this the right though - should I take the connection out and reseal afresh?

Thanks for any advice in advance.

the top rubber hose is coolant only the 2 steel pipes are oil and youd lose very little of either, if oil cooler pipe is taper seat nipping might work if its parallel with o ring another o ring might help

Thommo1 · May 24, 2017

Well the chap at the garage nipped it up with no improvement (worse!). On taking the oil pipe off it's the union on the cooler that has a knackered thread. He says he couldn't move it to take it off the cooler but am I right in thinking that these things do come off with a 27mm socket and breaker bar? Also would anyone have the part number for the union that fits the taper seal oil pipe?

lynall · May 25, 2017

Might come down to a new rad.
Iirc some of the cheaper rads dont come with the unions so it must be possible to remove the adaptor to swap it over?

Thommo1 · May 25, 2017

lynall said:
Might come down to a new rad.
Iirc some of the cheaper rads dont come with the unions so it must be possible to remove the adaptor to swap it over?

That's what I'm hoping. I took a photo this morning which I'll try and up load. I think some careful use of heat and a big arse breaker bar and it should move. Either that or the breaker bar will live up to its name a a new rad will be needed......

jamesmartin · May 25, 2017

Thommo1 said:
Well the chap at the garage nipped it up with no improvement (worse!). On taking the oil pipe off it's the union on the cooler that has a knackered thread. He says he couldn't move it to take it off the cooler but am I right in thinking that these things do come off with a 27mm socket and breaker bar? Also would anyone have the part number for the union that fits the taper seal oil pipe?

taper seat are ntc3858

Thommo1 · May 25, 2017

Thanks for all your help guys. I've only had the thing 12 days and I was hoping to have a few more posts to my name before I started asking for help! What a great place this is!

lynall · May 25, 2017

Like many land rover forums this place is a wealth of knowledge.

Foxyred · May 29, 2017

Think I have one ntc 3858 ! Pm me and i'll see if I can help

Thommo1 · May 29, 2017

Foxyred said:
Think I have one ntc 3858 ! Pm me and i'll see if I can help

Many thanks for the offer Foxyred. Unfortunately the old radiator was an after market one where you can't replace the adapt or. I've now had to get an new rad and 2xntc3858 to make it fit the current oil lines.....

I feel like a fully fledged Landy owner now!

Foxyred · May 29, 2017

Make sure you get the correct radiator as there are two types, one has o rings that's is the later model and the oil pipes to fit are over £100

sp00k · May 31, 2017

I removed mine from my old radiator and put them in my new one. As you suggested, it was with a large deep socket and a breaker bar. I think I used PTFE tape on the threads before putting them in the new rad. Had to go steady putting them in as it's an aluminium one.

Thommo1 · Jun 6, 2017

Well finally got sorted. New rad, but as this had the wrong fittings (I needed taper fit) I was at least able to swap these out for the correct item.

It seems a previous owner has used a radiator with the wrong union type and just fitted as best they could. No wonder the thing was leaking!

All fixed now and a dry joint both top and bottom.......

Glad to be driving her again and thanks for your help guys!

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