bluedog333

Well-Known Member
200tdi (out of a Disco, but same thing!) had started to get a bit toasty! Top hose is too hot to touch, as is most of the rad, bottom hose is also hotter than I like.
New rad time? Any reliable way of testing the pump without trying to take it off and snapping all the bolts? Ta muncho
 
My son fitted a Britpart rad to his and it's lasted fine and cools well, if that's any help.
Water pump should come off OK if the cambelt has been changed as per recommendations.
 
My son fitted a Britpart rad to his and it's lasted fine and cools well, if that's any help.
Water pump should come off OK if the cambelt has been changed as per recommendations.
I think the current one is Britpart, replaced about 10 years ago when the oil cooler imploded! Might be a weak pump - I have found receipt for a pump I bought about 5 years ago, but I have to say I don’t actually remember fitting it! Probably tucked away in the garage somewhere.
 
My 200 disco engined LR used to go up to the red on a hot day. No viscous. Have an electric pull fan that I switch on to drop temps. Rare it goes on while normal driving. Only if you tow or off road for hours where the air flow is not great. .
 
No, I ought to get a leccy one fitted, but she’s run fine without one for years, I don’t work her hard.
I have only ever seen my 200 get got twice, once off roading it in the winter for hours and the thing nearly heat seized! and two when the new stat failed to open, but car still got me the 10 miles home driven gingerly.

No viscous on mine, leccy fitted but very rarely switched on.

Maybe get yourself on of them cheap laser stat guns to check the actual temps?

 
I have only ever seen my 200 get got twice, once off roading it in the winter for hours and the thing nearly heat seized! and two when the new stat failed to open, but car still got me the 10 miles home driven gingerly.

No viscous on mine, leccy fitted but very rarely switched on.

Maybe get yourself on of them cheap laser stat guns to check the actual temps?

I’ll see if I can borrow a decent one. The hose and rad are definitely hotter than they should be!
Bloody thing, there’s literally not a single week where something isn’t wrong (and this is after 15 years of ownership).
 
Infrared thermometer (tested against known hot things - boiling kettle and my forehead), shows that the gauge is reading about 15C too high, which would tie-in with what it should be showing. So, we have an electrical issue somewhere. Time to look at a mechanical gauge, as clearly Land Rover electronics are not to be trusted, ever.
 
Approx. 75C at the thermostat housing/start of hose, 60C at the bottom of the rad, 50/55C at the bottom of the pump. The gauge was showing 90-95C. This was after a 15 minute run at 23C.
That's better, they do actually run quite hot. When I was looking into it a while back and I came across someone else's forum post with a similar issue.
He booked it in at a specialist who suggested mid 90s is correct for a 200tdi. Pretty sure my son's runs around 90 at the top hose.
 
My thermostat opens at 85’ on an analogue dial. That equates to 3/4 the way up the Land Rover temp dial
I fitted a paired Durite sender and gauge a couple of years back. The gauge displays the actual temperature reading, but for whatever reason it’s now reading 15C ish off. I can’t be ar•sed trying to trace the issue, so I’m going to fit a mechanical capillary setup and see if that can last a couple of years without effing up!
 
I fitted a paired Durite sender and gauge a couple of years back. The gauge displays the actual temperature reading, but for whatever reason it’s now reading 15C ish off. I can’t be ar•sed trying to trace the issue, so I’m going to fit a mechanical capillary setup and see if that can last a couple of years without effing up!
+1 on the capillary type. Fitted 1 to the S1 and you even see these move when the stat opens.
 

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