No it may not be that far out, maybe a half a tooth and not actually out just out of adjustment, but if you havent got the bolts in the middle of the slots when you tensioned the belt you cant adjust the timing enough on the slots to get the timing spot on.

I did the exact same thing on my 200 into s2 conversion, bloody white smoke meant retarded timing and as I had no adjustment left it meant strip down again to get it right, not the end of the world but a lot more time consuming on a series than a defender.

You only have to remove the little round plate to get access to timing hole on the inj pump.
I played with the timing a bit again, retarded it until there was white smoke, then advanced it little by little until it wasn't emitting white smoke, seems to run well now, but still has a knock to it.
 
Sounds pretty good to me at the start of the vid,then you are adjusting to low,much lower than 1k would say.:)
 
thats not the idle adjuster its cable free play ,,,should be a screw and lock nut to the throttle leaver on pump ;);)
 
Sounded spot on and just like my two, most small engines tickover at roughly 750rpm give or take a bit.
The n/a also ticks over at the same speed but as its not direct injection its sounds different.
Point of note that clear braided fuel hose is ****e and will cause issues when it gets old/hard, which happens surprisingly quickly.
 
Sounded spot on and just like my two, most small engines tickover at roughly 750rpm give or take a bit.
The n/a also ticks over at the same speed but as its not direct injection its sounds different.
Point of note that clear braided fuel hose is ****e and will cause issues when it gets old/hard, which happens surprisingly quickly.
I've not finished setting it up yet ;)
I just wanted to get things running to see what i need to deal with...
 
Nope! the smoke was coming from the exposed crankcase breather! As i said, it's not finished yet :D
It is now piped back to the intake, it's not venting to atmosphere anymore
Oh yes, right you are.
Well, I have my idle turned down a little because I like it to sound like there's a team of belligerent retired blacksmiths hammering out raw hot grunt under the bonnet. This does not imply that any favours are being done for actual workings.
In the absence of a timing torch you just do what feels right.
 
I'm beginning to believe the source of the knock is one of the injectors dripping or something. I tried using some injector cleaner, exhaust gases look cleaner, but the knock is still present. Think I should send them to a specialist ?
 
Before spending money have you actually checked and got the timing spot on?
Have you tried cracking each injector in turn with engine at idle and seeing if they all make the same difference? if one doesnt seem to make the same amount of difference, swap it with another cylinder and if the fault moves its the injector and if the fault stays put its to do with the original cylinder.
Obviously you need the idle set properly on the idle screw so you can be sure there is actually a difference each time.
 
Before spending money have you actually checked and got the timing spot on?
Have you tried cracking each injector in turn with engine at idle and seeing if they all make the same difference? if one doesnt seem to make the same amount of difference, swap it with another cylinder and if the fault moves its the injector and if the fault stays put its to do with the original cylinder.
Obviously you need the idle set properly on the idle screw so you can be sure there is actually a difference each time.
I've tried just about every timing setting known to man and the knock is still present. At a certain speed there is also a vibration which I believe may be normal because my disco 300tdi also does this. I tried cracking the injectors off and one cylinder definitely makes less of a difference than the others, I'll try experimenting a bit today.
 

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