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David Leech

Well-Known Member
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I'm going to have a few questions on this so I'll keep them all together in one thread.
I've 'trial fitted' the engine and it sits fine on the engine brackets/mounts/rubbers. I'm using Bearmach Defender rubbers, ANR1808 I think.
So, first question is about the exhaust downpipe. As you know it fouls on the chassis and needs to be routed closer to the engine. Is it possible to have the 200 downpipe altered, basically cut 'n' shut, or do I bite the bullet and order the Steve Parker one. https://www.steveparkers.com/produc...sion-to-lr-series-front-exhaust-pipe-spex121/
And following on from that, re the exhaust, are there any 'off the shelf' pipes that can be used to get me to the back or is it all specially fabricated stuff.
Thanks for reading and looking forward to replies.....
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If using the series gearbox do not forget to drill the flywheel housing to take the lower 4 bolts that go into the engien sump ladder.
I made my own downpipe as steve parker would not fit mine as I have a winch driveshaft between sump and chassis, also made mow own exhaust, not hard using pre made bends off ebay.
Iirc I also shimmed the engine mounts with a washer or two to lift the motor higher, also used cut down defender 200 tdi mounts form glencoyne engineering
 
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Few pics fro mine back in 2011.
Holes countersunk for m10 countersunk bolts
Home made throttle linkage, you can go rods all the way, but apparently it can be real jerky at low speeds.
I only cut a small bit out of the battery tray to clear the injector pump.
Clutch set up is different to yours, the 2a cover was donated by a mate of mine.
Intercooler is mounted next to the rad, not poss on the s3 as the rad is wider.
Series stat top is a bolt on fit so you can use original hoses.
As you can see I run the oil bath filter, not one drip of oil is in the inlet trunking, so it is more than capable.
Battery is under passenger seat, fit at least two earth leads from battery, one as close to the starter as possible, and other to the chassis.
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Thanks @lynall , I am keeping the series gearbox and have that ready to go.

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Have the Flywheel housing drilled to take socket heads.....

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And have the extra studs in place, just to fit new oil seal yet.....

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I'm looking at your throttle set up, but that will be for another day.....
 
David Leech said:
Thanks @lynall , I am keeping the series gearbox and have that ready to go.

53372001352_6abde9335f_b.jpg


53372041197_6338a85c02_b.jpg


Have the Flywheel housing drilled to take socket heads.....

53371983007_792c3e333e_b.jpg

53373377575_0bc6ed477b_b.jpg


And have the extra studs in place, just to fit new oil seal yet.....

53373347260_bd854ff920_b.jpg


I'm looking at your throttle set up, but that will be for another day.....
Click to expand...
A bit of loctite around the outer edge of the crank seal is a good idea, mine came loose, lot of work for a few drops of loctite, I was not impressed!
I cannot remember the good make of seal, it was not cheap, 30 quid rings a bell.

I had to use countersunk bolts as I had no means to fit socket heads like you are, which looks a much better job than mine.
I forgot to mention the extra studs.

Regards throttle linkage it might be better if you go cable all the way, I wanted to keep some of the rods as I have a hand throttle for the winch.

My 200tdi is well worn, but starts well and drives quite nice, no flying machine, but way better than the original 2.0 litre diesel.

I got all my info from Glen Anderson who posted his 200tdi into his 109 on annes land rover site, will see if I can find it for you.
 
Forgot to say for the engine to gearbox studs use the m10 nuts with a built in flange and a 15mm head, much easier than the std 17mm ones.

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I'll order some of those nuts right away.
I'll also be trying to keep some of the rod linkage for a hand throttle 'cause I've a winch to fit too.....

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Have a look at " Glencoyne engineering" web site. Lots of good info.
The Dowty seal is the original type, comes with fitting tool and sealant already on the outer rim. Has to be fitted "dry" no oil on crank land.
Use new gasket between housing and block, these come with sealant pre applied.
 
lynall said:
A bit of loctite around the outer edge of the crank seal is a good idea, mine came loose, lot of work for a few drops of loctite, I was not impressed!
I cannot remember the good make of seal, it was not cheap, 30 quid rings a bell.

I had to use countersunk bolts as I had no means to fit socket heads like you are, which looks a much better job than mine.
I forgot to mention the extra studs.

Regards throttle linkage it might be better if you go cable all the way, I wanted to keep some of the rods as I have a hand throttle for the winch.

My 200tdi is well worn, but starts well and drives quite nice, no flying machine, but way better than the original 2.0 litre diesel.

I got all my info from Glen Anderson who posted his 200tdi into his 109 on annes land rover site, will see if I can find it for you.
Click to expand...

you were thinking of Dowty , got one recently and a lot cheaper than previous

Buy Oil Seal Crankshaft Rear Genuine Part ERR2532G

PA Blanchards, the UK Number one Land Rover parts, EX MOD spares and Landrover Sales. Buy today Buy Oil Seal Crankshaft Rear Genuine Part Land rover part number ERR2532G
pablanchard.co.uk pablanchard.co.uk
 
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Then fitted the clutch pipe, slave to flexi, I bought a 'pre bent' one and to be honest it was a bit tight but got there in the end.

Question, is it in the best position, it could be closer to the engine and do I need any additional support, i.e. a rubber grommet/bracket?.....
 
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