Surfing90

Surfing90

New Member
Hi All,

First post on here but I am in need of some help!

I was driving along in my 1989 90 with a 200tdi disco engine in it with no problems/noises at all and the engine cut out completely. Rolled to a stop and tried to start it again but with no luck, the engine would turn over but not start. I got the truck home and tested a few bits . .

I tested the stop solenoid as thy was my first guess, tested the solenoid out of the engine and the pin retracted with power. I then refitted the solenoid without the pin at all to see if the truck would start just to be sure. Without the pin in the solenoid the truck still turns over but does not start.

Does anyone have any suggestions as where next to look into?? Does the white ignition wire from the back of the ignition barrel go to anything else other than the solenoid?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance.
 
Surfing90 said:
Hi All,

First post on here but I am in need of some help!

I was driving along in my 1989 90 with a 200tdi disco engine in it with no problems/noises at all and the engine cut out completely. Rolled to a stop and tried to start it again but with no luck, the engine would turn over but not start. I got the truck home and tested a few bits . .

I tested the stop solenoid as thy was my first guess, tested the solenoid out of the engine and the pin retracted with power. I then refitted the solenoid without the pin at all to see if the truck would start just to be sure. Without the pin in the solenoid the truck still turns over but does not start.

Does anyone have any suggestions as where next to look into?? Does the white ignition wire from the back of the ignition barrel go to anything else other than the solenoid?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Is fuel getting to the filter ?
 
Surfing90 said:
Hi All,

First post on here but I am in need of some help!

I was driving along in my 1989 90 with a 200tdi disco engine in it with no problems/noises at all and the engine cut out completely. Rolled to a stop and tried to start it again but with no luck, the engine would turn over but not start. I got the truck home and tested a few bits . .

I tested the stop solenoid as thy was my first guess, tested the solenoid out of the engine and the pin retracted with power. I then refitted the solenoid without the pin at all to see if the truck would start just to be sure. Without the pin in the solenoid the truck still turns over but does not start.

Does anyone have any suggestions as where next to look into?? Does the white ignition wire from the back of the ignition barrel go to anything else other than the solenoid?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Are you sure the air hoses and filter are in good condition?

Are you sure there is fuel in it, and the fuel filter is a good one, and has been changed recently?

Is it below freezing where you are? Wind chill on fuel lines and water traps can freeze water in them, even if the temperature is just below freezing.

Has the uptake pipe from the diesel tank rusted through, allowing air into the fuel?
 
Cam belt still in one piece?
If you've got fuel, you've got air and it still won't run, check if it's still in time.
Have someone crank it over whiles peeking through the oil hole to see if your rockers are moving.
 
Welcome to the forum
I7pha4t.jpg
 
Reporting back!
I have been going over things today and can report that whilst turning over the engine and looking through the oil filler, there is no movement at all!

to check this further I manually pumped the fuel pump and that showed there was fuel getting to the filter, however when cracking off the injector pipe there was no fuel coming out to the engine . . .

This to me seems to suggest a snapped timing belt which is in turn not operating the lift pump and supplying diesel to the injectors. Just to clarify I had removed the stop solenoid and tested it and then replaced it without the pin in just to rule it out and the problem persisted.

From these extra findings would anyone agree with me that the timing belt is snapped? Aka, worst nightmare? Thanks in advance!
 
Surfing90 said:
Reporting back!
I have been going over things today and can report that whilst turning over the engine and looking through the oil filler, there is no movement at all!

to check this further I manually pumped the fuel pump and that showed there was fuel getting to the filter, however when cracking off the injector pipe there was no fuel coming out to the engine . . .

This to me seems to suggest a snapped timing belt which is in turn not operating the lift pump and supplying diesel to the injectors. Just to clarify I had removed the stop solenoid and tested it and then replaced it without the pin in just to rule it out and the problem persisted.

From these extra findings would anyone agree with me that the timing belt is snapped? Aka, worst nightmare? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Pumping the lift pump manually will fill the fuel filter, not produce fuel at an injector union.
I am not sure what you expect to see through the oil filler?

You could have a snapped timing belt, but it could also be many other things. In any case, a snapped timing belt is not the end of the world, it can be replaced, and may have bent a few valves.

Do you know when the belt was last changed, and what belt was used?
 
Last edited:
Surfing90 said:
Reporting back!
I have been going over things today and can report that whilst turning over the engine and looking through the oil filler, there is no movement at all!

to check this further I manually pumped the fuel pump and that showed there was fuel getting to the filter, however when cracking off the injector pipe there was no fuel coming out to the engine . . .

This to me seems to suggest a snapped timing belt which is in turn not operating the lift pump and supplying diesel to the injectors. Just to clarify I had removed the stop solenoid and tested it and then replaced it without the pin in just to rule it out and the problem persisted.

From these extra findings would anyone agree with me that the timing belt is snapped? Aka, worst nightmare? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
I think there is a cover in front of the injector pump pulley on the timing case. If so, try removing it, get someone to turn the engine over with a socket and ratchet. If the pulley is turning, the belt is OK.
 
Turboman said:
Pumping the lift pump manually will fill the fuel filter, not produce fuel at an injector union.
I am not sure what you expect to see through the oil filler?

You could have a snapped timing belt, but it could also be many other things. In any case, a snapped timing belt is not the end of the world, it can be replaced, and may have bent a few valves.

Do you know when the belt was last changed, and what belt was used?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply, with regards to the injector union, I was cranking the engine over to see if there was fuel coming out when cranked, I only manually did the pump to check fuel at the filter stage to rule out from the tank to the filter. As far as I am aware the pump is operated from the timing belt.

Looking inside the oil filler I was hoping to see the tappet moving which would suggest push rods where operating . . Turned by an intact belt. I am only a novice but this seemed to make logical sense that without a belt the rods and in turn, the rocker shaft, visible through the oil filler hole, would not be moving.
 
Turboman said:
I think there is a cover in front of the injector pump pulley on the timing case. If so, try removing it, get someone to turn the engine over with a socket and ratchet. If the pulley is turning, the belt is OK.
Click to expand...

I will give this a go to see if I can see anything! Thanks.
 
Surfing90 said:
Thanks for the quick reply, with regards to the injector union, I was cranking the engine over to see if there was fuel coming out when cranked, I only manually did the pump to check fuel at the filter stage to rule out from the tank to the filter. As far as I am aware the pump is operated from the timing belt.

Looking inside the oil filler I was hoping to see the tappet moving which would suggest push rods where operating . . Turned by an intact belt. I am only a novice but this seemed to make logical sense that without a belt the rods and in turn, the rocker shaft, visible through the oil filler hole, would not be moving.
Click to expand...
It does make sense. But I am not sure what you can see. It is while since I have worked on a Tdi, and on some engines, all you would see would be the top of a bearing cap for the camshaft bearings.

The injector pump pulley turning is probably easier, you should be able to see the nut turn with the cover off.
 
Turboman said:
If the pump isn't turning, the belt has snapped, or the teeth stripped.

Do you know when the belt was changed?
Click to expand...

I have just removed the inspection cover to the pump wheel and when turning the engine over by hand the pump wheel doesn’t turn . . . So pretty safe to say timing belt is no longer!

Without checking the exact mileage of the previous change I suspect it had done around 100k So I imagine it was due to happen at any time . .
 
Surfing90 said:
I have just removed the inspection cover to the pump wheel and when turning the engine over by hand the pump wheel doesn’t turn . . . So pretty safe to say timing belt is no longer!

Without checking the exact mileage of the previous change I suspect it had done around 100k So I imagine it was due to happen at any time . .
Click to expand...
That is a very long time for one of those belts to last. I think the recommended interval is about 60k, but I would do it before that.

Changing them isn't the end of the world, if it has bent valves, you will have to replace those too. You will need a good manual, there is a strange double tensioning procedure which is important if the new belt is going to last. A timing pin kit is helpful, although not essential.
 
Turboman said:
That is a very long time for one of those belts to last. I think the recommended interval is about 60k, but I would do it before that.

Changing them isn't the end of the world, if it has bent valves, you will have to replace those too. You will need a good manual, there is a strange double tensioning procedure which is important if the new belt is going to last. A timing pin kit is helpful, although not essential.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your words of advice! I will look to purchase bits tomorrow along with a detailed manual and then have a further investigation on a day off in a couple of days to see the extent of the damage! Will look to get the pin kit also as it seems to help keep things where they ought to be.

Cheers for all the help.
 
Surfing90 said:
Thank you for your words of advice! I will look to purchase bits tomorrow along with a detailed manual and then have a further investigation on a day off in a couple of days to see the extent of the damage! Will look to get the pin kit also as it seems to help keep things where they ought to be.

Cheers for all the help.
Click to expand...
No worries. There might be a thread on the forum about the belt change, but I don't know where, and it won't say much that the manual doesn't.

If you have any trouble, post your own thread in the Defender section while you are doing it, and people will talk you through it.
 
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