jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
wouldnt say it was common but possible,
Rustystuff
Active Member
Yes, My 200 developed a water leak in the block side wall between 3 and 4 cylinder. It would leak out onto the manifold, creating steam ! Couldn't figure out what was happening to start with..... then the rusty water stain started to show down the block.... side wall cracked.. new engine required !!
Can't say for sure what caused it but it had been in for a head gasket some time before it failed..... I wonder if the head bolts weren't torqued correctly or wrong sequence ?
**** happens
Rustystuff
Active Member
...... cant even say s h I t happens ??? WTF
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
thats not uncommon if bolt hole isnt blown out and has some coolant in
SpaceDawg
Active Member
Ok for the bolts etc, the bolt which did not go in perfect creaked when I dialed it in. I did the correct torque sequence and used a dial guage. However, the bolts were all over the place when I took the head off, nothing was done up properly.
I did clean out all the bolt holes and ensured they were all dry and clean, I made a thread chaser and run that in and out a few times to clean the threads.
Where it looks like its leaking is also below and between where the bolts go, the 10mm ones.
What I think I need to do is run the car and get it to some ramps so I can see the leak, I fixed the next hose leak last night but I'll get a new water pump bypass hose.
It is running really well the tappets were done and I had the injectors cleaned when I did the head. Flat I recon I can give you a race now, albeit dripping water.
I'll get a second opinion and if its cracked I''ll be on the hunt for a block as everything else on the engine has been done, and I mean everything now.
At least its not difficult to work on, but I don't have an engine crane thingy.
I did clean out all the bolt holes and ensured they were all dry and clean, I made a thread chaser and run that in and out a few times to clean the threads.
Where it looks like its leaking is also below and between where the bolts go, the 10mm ones.
What I think I need to do is run the car and get it to some ramps so I can see the leak, I fixed the next hose leak last night but I'll get a new water pump bypass hose.
It is running really well the tappets were done and I had the injectors cleaned when I did the head. Flat I recon I can give you a race now, albeit dripping water.
I'll get a second opinion and if its cracked I''ll be on the hunt for a block as everything else on the engine has been done, and I mean everything now.
At least its not difficult to work on, but I don't have an engine crane thingy.
SpaceDawg
Active Member
Whats one of them?
SpaceDawg
Active Member
Nope in a different place and the bolt did tighten up just was a bit creaky.
Stuff you put in your water that's supposed to fix leaks. There's various products on the market that claim to do this. Probably best seen as a temporary fix.
Dogs bollacks, lots of people are still afraid of rad seal and thats going back to the crumbly dog turd days of old, which were quite chunky and could block up the small waterways found in newer cars.
K seal is actually quite good, we use it in the trucks at work.
I sealed a vw rad appprox 10 yrs ago its still running and leak free.
Mate did his shogun still running and leak free
I sealed the badly leaking rad in my series 2 and I got another 2/3 yrs out of the rad.
Basically its a tenner versus the hassle of a another block, fit the k-seal and enjoy the car and look for an engine at your leisure.
