Val. h · Jun 5, 2019

I recently bought a re-chassied 200Tdi 90 pretey much everything has been done to renew the running gear etc. New galv chassis, rebuilt bulkhead, reconditioned axels and engine, new shocks and springs. What is left is the interior and doors.

Things I need to do and want to add to the vehicle in the name of practicle comfort.

Need to do:
Door check bar/strap. Done
Spare wheel cover. Done
A new rear door has been fitted, but needs painting. Done
Driver and pasenger seats, new fome and recovering, poss heated pads. For now just bought new seat swabs. Sitting at least an inch higher now.
Front doors, rebuild or replace. Replaced with new.
Locking wheel nuts
Change lock barrels. Done
Dash cam (insurance requierment) Done

Want to do:
Heated front screen
Roof lining. Front done
Leather steering wheel. Done
Side steps.
Rear Step. Done
Floor covering.
Draught/leak sealing. We're getting there, door seals all good now.
Relocate spare wheel/swing out carrier

To finish off:
Door cards x 3
Radio and pod. Dash, poss roof unit
Rear storage
Map pockets / cab storage
Better heater would be nice. Mine looks like it's new. Are they really that poor at putting heat out, if so Why?

When you're sitting thinking about what you want to do it doesn't seem too much, til you get it on paper.
Any advice greatfully received.

Seats are easy, A kit from Exmoor trim watching videos and some persevirence should sort them out.

Roof lining, Looking like it'll be a SH one and another recovering exersize. Anyone know how to fit one?

Leather steering wheel. I really don't like the off centre OE steering wheel. Also it's very worn and ahs come away from the metal inside. I've noticed that the Discovery 1 leather wheel has suggested to fit. Anyone konw? I understand that the Range Rover Calssic wheel will fit too, but would prefer the D1 wheel.

Side steps are going to be a chalenge as the car has galv rock sliders with the bars fitted. Will need to look at fabricating something.

Floor covering, I know the one I want, but it ain't cheep.

Draught/leak sealing, Something to fill the gap between the side panels and the lower body, mainly half way down the door shut about elbo level.

Got to pluck up the courage to open the wallet now.

Val.

Val. h · Mar 28, 2020

It's been a while, but we're geting there.

Doors:
New doors painted and fitted. Half way through the refit I realised they are the Pumer doors and my 200Tdi door inner panels where not going to fit, enter ebay. A few day go by, parts arrive and get fitted along with a new window regulator. I desided to fit new bottom door seals. After three months of slaming the doors they have now setteled down. But not before adding extra shims behind the hinges. Guess who forgot to take any photos.

Next the roof lining:
The car didn't have a roof lining when I bought it. The PO bined it, said it was shot. So not liking the prices for hale decent ones I managed to get hold of a less than good one from a 200 of similar age. This however needed some remedial work to bring it back to life. Firts I stripped the old covering off, putting it to one side to use as a pattern, then didn't use it. think it's still folded up in the garage somewhere. There where a few floppy edges which needed reinforcing, whitch I did by gluing hession matting on.

I lined the roof with 6mm closed cell matting, to stop condensation and to insulate the roof.

After this I drilled a few holes in the lining to aid air movement in an attempt to prevent condensation.

The lining material is the type that was commonly fitted to vehicles in the 70s, the perforations alow air movement, though gluing it to the rooflining will prevent this, hence drilling the holes and remenbering to clear the glue so it can do it's job as planned.

Finaly got around to fitting the lining yesturday. A tempory fitting as I still need to install wiering for the curtesy lights, radio and speakers. Yep going to put the radio up there in a consol I'm making, more on that later.

Next? Along with the radio consol I'll be making and fitting a new rear roof lining.

Lief Zpring · Mar 29, 2020

Like what you did with the head lining. That's a job for my 110 in the future. Where did you get the fabric from?

Val. h · Mar 29, 2020

Lief Zpring said:
Like what you did with the head lining. That's a job for my 110 in the future. Where did you get the fabric from?

Thanks,
Got the fabric on line ebay iirc. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perforat...hash=item465ec5f514:m:mhy_b3Zlu-NwGVVTiULq1fw
This is certainly similar if not the same. I avoided the foam backed fabrics as they can become unglude more easily. And don't forget you'll need the high tem adheasive.

Val.

Val. h · May 28, 2020

Been having some fun trying to get info about my rear suspension. I find mie is too hard and have decided to go for a softer set up.
After lots of questions on here and else where, this is the result.

I did the colour code reasearch thing and and came up with only a few un quantified assumptions.

The colour codes allown don't answer my question. 'Are the CSW springs softer that the 2400Kg utility springs?' There doesn't seem to be any info about which springs are harder than other springs etc etc. My thinking is, that the CSW is designed to carry 4 people, but much of it's time there is very little payload, so common sence thought suggests that the CSW springs should be softer than the utility srings. But this is not certain, hence my question.

Last week a friend arrived in his 54 plate TD5 90 utility/van (which my 93 200TDi 90 was until the PO fitted side windows). With low miles and standard springs and shocks, where as mine is fitted with standard srings and OME shocks . I did a simple rock test comparison. His car rocked very easily. Mine almost didn't rock at all, mush stiffer springs and shocks.

So, After some emailing and FBing, the guys at ABR and Old Man Emu have shed some light on my shock and spring question at last. I now know that the 2400Kg utility springs are designed for a constant payload of 200Kg and that their medium weight springs are a zero payload. The O,M,E shocks I have fitted currently are for the 200Kg and the ones I have now bought are for zero payload. I have taken the gamble and also bought new 90 4 seat SW 2400Kg rear springs (all 90s share front spings and shocks on the chart I have).

The O,M,E shocks have arrived, so I'll fit these today and test the ride with the softer shocks. It is possible that this will solve the ride issues I have. Softer shocks will make the hard springs more complient keeping the natural anti roll abilities of the harder springs. So might be a good move as this is done on the MGTF and transforms the comfort whils retaining the cornering charictaristics, so no reason why it shouldn't cross over to other cars. If not I'll fit the what I can only presum to be softer CSW springs and see if that answers my question.

Val.

Val.

neilly · May 28, 2020

Val. h said:
Been having some fun trying to get info about my rear suspension. I find mie is too hard and have decided to go for a softer set up.
After lots of questions on here and else where, this is the result.

I did the colour code reasearch thing and and came up with only a few un quantified assumptions.

The colour codes allown don't answer my question. 'Are the CSW springs softer that the 2400Kg utility springs?' There doesn't seem to be any info about which springs are harder than other springs etc etc. My thinking is, that the CSW is designed to carry 4 people, but much of it's time there is very little payload, so common sence thought suggests that the CSW springs should be softer than the utility srings. But this is not certain, hence my question.

Last week a friend arrived in his 54 plate TD5 90 utility/van (which my 93 200TDi 90 was until the PO fitted side windows). With low miles and standard springs and shocks, where as mine is fitted with standard srings and OME shocks . I did a simple rock test comparison. His car rocked very easily. Mine almost didn't rock at all, mush stiffer springs and shocks.

So, After some emailing and FBing, the guys at ABR and Old Man Emu have shed some light on my shock and spring question at last. I now know that the 2400Kg utility springs are designed for a constant payload of 200Kg and that their medium weight springs are a zero payload. The O,M,E shocks I have fitted currently are for the 200Kg and the ones I have now bought are for zero payload. I have taken the gamble and also bought new 90 4 seat SW 2400Kg rear springs (all 90s share front spings and shocks on the chart I have).

The O,M,E shocks have arrived, so I'll fit these today and test the ride with the softer shocks. It is possible that this will solve the ride issues I have. Softer shocks will make the hard springs more complient keeping the natural anti roll abilities of the harder springs. So might be a good move as this is done on the MGTF and transforms the comfort whils retaining the cornering charictaristics, so no reason why it shouldn't cross over to other cars. If not I'll fit the what I can only presum to be softer CSW springs and see if that answers my question.

Val.

Val.

A maybe a bit late, But, If you find yourself still in a bind, I highly recommend Extreme 4x4, have a chat with the guys there as they will even make custom springs.

Cheers

Val. h · May 28, 2020

Well fitted the new softer shocks. Easier job than I thought it might be. After a short test drive. The car is riding a little softer. I'll use it more over the next few days and decide then if the softer springs will be fitted.

Val.

Val. h

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Val. h

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Lief Zpring

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Val. h

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Val. h

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neilly

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Val. h

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