mick 1986

mick 1986

Well-Known Member
I bought the defender 2 weeks ago. I hadn't a single issue until laning yesterday. When climbing hills, on the Tarmac between lanes, the clutch was slipping slightly after year changes, but it wasn't consistent. Sometimes it would slip, other times it wouldn't. A quick Google search brings up loads of people with the same/similar issues. One slightly common solution is the set the clutch master cylinder (mine has started to leak, which doesn't help).

Has anyone had a similar fault, if so, how did you fix it?
 
over adjusting clutch master cylinder rod can cause fluid not to return after pressing the clutch pedal ,so after a few presses the slave cylinder exerts pressure on clutch allowing it to slip
 
Could also be a contaminated flywheel, where you going through lots of water and did you have the wading plug in?
 
How do I know if the master is over adjusted, other than actually doing the adjustments correctly? Should there be some slop/play on the pedal?

The only water I went through was a ford around 6"-8" deep, but this was all after the first time it slipped. Edit: no I didn't have the plug fitted, I didn't think it was needed for such shallow water.

The only thing that is making me concerened, is the fact I replaced the gearbox oil the day before. I got in just under 2.5liters before it started to seep back out the fill plug.
 
not much free play in pedal, you could back adjustment off a few turns to prove the point, the neare the 2 nuts are adjusted to bulkhead the less stroke on m/c meaning clutch might not fully clear for gear changes ,the more its adjusted to front of car the greater the stroke but if too far clutch will ratchet on
 
I will have a look tonight when I get in. Hopefully it's something simple like incorrect adjustment.
 
I had this issue and without really thinking pulled the clutch out only to find it was in good condition. replaced bearings, seals and clutch whilst I was in there but the reality is it was a dodgy master cylinder, The slave was also playing up so swapped that to and adjusted correctly - problem solved!

only thing is because I'm a tight ass I bought Britpart, and am having issues again with the master leaking so going to have to replace the master again. :(

Learn from my mistakes!!!!!!
 
crowmann said:
Britpart - never fit the rubbish they sell unless you are happy to replace within a couple of years.
Click to expand...
What make do you recommend? Any links please?

Retrospaceman said:
I had this issue and without really thinking pulled the clutch out only to find it was in good condition. replaced bearings, seals and clutch whilst I was in there but the reality is it was a dodgy master cylinder, The slave was also playing up so swapped that to and adjusted correctly - problem solved!

only thing is because I'm a tight ass I bought Britpart, and am having issues again with the master leaking so going to have to replace the master again. :(

Learn from my mistakes!!!!!!
Click to expand...

I have already planned to take the box out and inspect the clutch. I'm pleased you have posted that reply, thank you. My master cylinder is leaking anyway, so best replace that, I will replace the slave too, but what about pipe work between them? Leave or replace?? What make slave would you fit?
 
mick 1986 said:
What make do you recommend? Any links please?



I have already planned to take the box out and inspect the clutch. I'm pleased you have posted that reply, thank you. My master cylinder is leaking anyway, so best replace that, I will replace the slave too, but what about pipe work between them? Leave or replace?? What make slave would you fit?
Click to expand...

My Pipe work was fine, although I did struggle to remove the slave and almost damaged the thread of the coupling.
As for makes I've not had that much experience of different brands - all the after market ones may be the same. You can buy a refurb kit to fix your original one? that may be a better option. Just be sure not to put any pressure on the slave until everything is in place as the blow apart quite easily! Again I know this from experience!
 
The problem with buying a seal kit, is I don't know for certain that it's genuine. I may be buying a seal kit and fitting it into a britpart. I will get my head into this weekend, but I fear I may understand why the clutch is slipping. I can see small amounts of oil residue from around the wading plug in the bell housing. I need to have a proper look at the weekend.
 
mick 1986 said:
The problem with buying a seal kit, is I don't know for certain that it's genuine. I may be buying a seal kit and fitting it into a britpart. I will get my head into this weekend, but I fear I may understand why the clutch is slipping. I can see small amounts of oil residue from around the wading plug in the bell housing. I need to have a proper look at the weekend.
Click to expand...

I have ordered a new master and slave cylinder. I got a Lucas master (not sure if it's any good, but it was the most expensive one listed), and an OEM slave (again most expensive one listed, but can't remember the make). Hopefully they will stop the leak at least.
 
I forgot this thread had been started.

I had it in the garage, when I picked it up, the mechanic said it had the worst pressure plate he had seen. In short, new release bearing, new pressure plate, new friction plate, new release arm, crank oil seal, oilite bush, master and slave cylinders all changed. No more slip.
 
mick 1986 said:
I forgot this thread had been started.

I had it in the garage, when I picked it up, the mechanic said it had the worst pressure plate he had seen. In short, new release bearing, new pressure plate, new friction plate, new release arm, crank oil seal, oilite bush, master and slave cylinders all changed. No more slip.
Click to expand...
Very good, sometimes buying the cheapest can be false economy especially when it's a ball ache to get at when it fails
 
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