LandyDan79
Member
Drives great
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
What 710 are you running ?
plus 1 ^^^
also need to check the Map sensor , might be plugged up
there are 3 x intercooler hoses , have u removed the long left hand side one as it can sometimes be difficult to find a split
Ref the other 2 , see if the clamps are tight , ur see traces of oil if there leaking, hopefully they don’t need changing , particularly the short turbo one, plse ask me how I know, lol
if the turbo actuator is sticking it would go into limp mode after booting it
hope that also helps u
also need to check the Map sensor , might be plugged up
there are 3 x intercooler hoses , have u removed the long left hand side one as it can sometimes be difficult to find a split
Ref the other 2 , see if the clamps are tight , ur see traces of oil if there leaking, hopefully they don’t need changing , particularly the short turbo one, plse ask me how I know, lol
if the turbo actuator is sticking it would go into limp mode after booting it
hope that also helps u
LandyDan79
Member
710?
LandyDan79
Member
Will change the filter cartridge and book it in with my guy to do a proper read of codes, thank you!
LandyDan79
Member
I sense you too have experienced this pain! I'll order the big hose today and check for splits on the current one.
Doesn't go into limp mode so hopefully that means the turbo is ok?
hi
indeed I ended having to replace the actual air intake pipe , that was a complete and utter nightmare , spent a lot of hours diagnosing and resolving all the issues , along with finding air leaks at the throttle body
fitted new t bolt clamps for the new silicone intercooler hoses
plse check ur Map sensor as that can block up , ensure u don’t poke anything down the hole, use some brake or Map cleaner
to get to the turbo hoses u need to remove some heat shields , actuator should be ok if it doesn’t go into limp mode after heavy acceleration
Live data via diagnostic's will help u as can check the injector offset values , Map, Maf and other sensors to see what the readings are
hopefully this is helping u
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It is live data you need, not codes.
LandyDan79
Member
Great info, thank you!
SO, in desperation and because the MOT expired last week, it's my daily driver (for work too) and I don't have the time in the day or light to work in the evening, I rang the LR workshop I use and they recommended getting the emissions done by the MOT place they use, it flew through, twice!
She's booked in for them to do the MOT (couldn't get it in for 2 weeks) so I'm over the moon it doesn't look like a turbo/dpf/fiddly hose issue, just a dodgy emissions test.
I ordered the large intercooler hose and an air filter cartridge yesterday so will pop them on anyway and clean the the MAP sensor too. Thanks @gstuart
LandyDan79
Member
Very good............5w-30 and the correct C rating too
ur so very welcome and many thks for the appreciation as unfortunately some won’t even say plse or thks
good call to at least change that long interdooler hose as indeed they do fail , done the 3 x of mine in silicone and the t bolt clamps as didn’t want to revisit them any time soon, particularly the short turbo one as that was a right sod to change
did put a few bottles of millers ecomax through mine along with a turbo cleaner , alas mine was suffering with limp mode that was due to the turbo actuator arm sticking
but theres a software program built into these that when the engine is turned off u should hear the turbo actuator arm moving back and forth , is a prevention program to help reduce the arm from sticking , plus the Egrs will also motor back and forth
engine oil wise I personally use millers 5-30 , isn’t cheap but prefer to use decent Oil and a genuine or mahle oil filter , fuel filter I change every other year and again buy a mahle
indeed ref the map sensor as when these block up it can reduce the power of the engine , more noticeable up hills, I used egr cleaner for this with a small pick to clear the bits on the surface , then filled the hole up with the cleaner , allowing it to soak in and breaking up the junk inside , inside there’s a very delicate sensor so thats why nothing should be put inside the map sensor , plse don’t think I’m trying to teach u how to suck eggs
hope that helps and plse let us know how u get on
plenty of us here to help if u get stuck
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
My suspicion is the original MOT tester was using the wrong comparison standard (possibly 0.7M or 1.5M) to do the smoke test. If yours doesn't have a DPF, and they're testing it using the DPF standard of 0.7M it will fail.
If yours has a DPF (a 2007 won't as standard), then it shouldn't make any smoke if the DPF is working. Yours being a 2007 model should be tested against a standard of 3.0M, meaning the machine can read anything up to 3.0 and you'd still get a pass. For comparison my Freelander 2 scores 0.95 on the smoke test, which is well under the 2008-2014 standard of 1.5M for an MOT pass.
hi mate
indeed I think the DPF’s came on the D4’s
also found one of my MOT’s that included the smoke test , alas the sheet doesn’t seem to come with the mot every time
Dont know how it compares with ur FL2 my friend
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I don't often get the print out. I just read the machine as the tester is running the test. My tester doesn't rev the guts out the engine, as there's no need if it's clean.
When mine was just done, it was held at the redline until the machine said stop
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
That's a governor smoke test, which isn't really needed on an engine with electronic fueling controls.
A modern diesel makes most smoke under acceleration, which is why the MOT regs now call it an acceleration smoke test. Most MOT test stations won't risk an engine failure for carrying out a pointless test governor smoke test, when a simple acceleration test is all that's needed.
