Good day everyone I regret that I have to use this as my introduction to the forums but here is the problem I am having and I hope someone will be able to help me out and save me some time as the nearest dealership is an hour from my house.

I own a 2006 RRS supercharged and three weeks ago I started it up, reversed out of my driveway and when I put it into drive it acted as though it was in neutral. I double checked it was in drive then put it in park and upon trying to put it back into drive the shifter was locked in park. At this time several faults started to come up (transmission fault, HDC fault, parking brake fault, vehicle lean, and an "E" shows in the display). I shut it off and on my attempt to restart it would not turn over. After it sat for 10 minutes It started and I was able to move it back into my driveway out of the way.

I did some reading online about similar issues and ruled a few things out in the process. The battery is good, brakes lights work fine, then I discovered my Transfer Case Control Module was corroded. I opened it up and cleaned it with some WD-40. Since the cleaning it has been running decent but twice it has done the same thing were it will not even start. My common sense tells me just replace the corroded transfer case control module but I wanted to check here and see if there is anything else I should be checking before I spend the money to do that. Any help is greatly appreciated guys!

You didn't clean an electronic control module with wd40 did you I mean actually spray it over electronic parts???

Welcome by the way

Yes after I unplugged the module and the truck started that is when I discovered the connectors and circuitry had minor corrosion so I figured maybe it wasn't too late to get the moisture out. WD-40 displaces moisture I have used it on my boats electronics for years and it has always worked well. School me though would it not be a good idea to clean the actual electronics with WD-40 if they were already corroded?

bikercrze1 said:

Yes after I unplugged the module and the truck started that is when I discovered the connectors and circuitry had minor corrosion so I figured maybe it wasn't too late to get the moisture out. WD-40 displaces moisture I have used it on my boats electronics for years and it has always worked well. School me though would it not be a good idea to clean the actual electronics with WD-40 if they were already corroded?

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No wd40 on electrical parts isn't good for them go along to maplins and buy your self a can of electrical contact cleaner and give it a good coating of that, its no conductive which is the main thing. You mite be able to save the module I appreciate wd40 is a water disspercent but you really shouldn't spray it on circuit boards or there compnents

I have just read over a few more posts that detail the same problems arising from corrosion on the Transfer Case Control Module. If I purchase a brand new module can I install it myself or does it need to be programmed by a dealership?

Of the module is corroded so is the wiring loom

I cleaned the module again last night with electrical contact cleaner and had it running for a while. I started it several times and it seemed to be ok. This morning same thing it will not start. I also discovered it will start with my foot off the brake when in park. I pulled a few relays out of the fuse panel under the glove box which is when it decided to start last night. At first I thought I was on the right track but then It started even when the relays were out completely. I can hear an audible clicking in there somewhere when I turn the key.

This time I was not able to start the truck with the module unplugged like I did the first time I had it out. The faults still came up does this mean the faults are possibly from a different module somewhere else? When I apply the brake it also does not release the shifter.

Would there be any defining indications that the Instrument Panel was bad instead of the Integrated Transfer Case Module?

Update:

I have had this intermittent issue which I thought I narrowed down to a corroded Integrated Transfer Case Module as others reported similar problems from water getting in behind the battery box. I removed it and cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner and it started and ran great for a week so I thought I had fixed the problem. This morning it started doing the same things will not start, flashes several faults, locks shifter in Park. As funny as this sounds the only issue I had not looked into is the Instrument panel and sure enough with the key turned to the start position I lightly tapped the dashboard and heard a click in the instrument panel and the truck started right up. I have been scouring the internet for ways to pin point the actual cause of the malfunctions but at this point it seems pretty clear that not only did I have a corroded Transfer Case Module, but my Instrument panel is also bad. My case in point remains though it is obvious this is due to a manufacturer error and I was literally stuck blocking traffic unable to get the truck into neutral to even get it off the road. This could have been a serious safety issue on a busy highway so hopefully they will recall this bad equipment before someone gets hurt.