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Staggan

Member

• Apr 30, 2017

• #21

I am talking about the bolts in the base of the air box that hold the turbo in place....

I thought they were 13mm bolts but someone posted that they are torx of some description.. but that may on older models...

Thanks

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Apr 30, 2017

• #22

I'm assuming you are talking about No 4 in this exploded view.

If so. I've a 3/8ths deep socket that fits OK. I can't remember if it's a 13mm or a 12mm though.

 

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Staggan

Member

• Apr 30, 2017

• #23

Thanks

12mm spline was needed.. and I removed the exhaust downpipe for easy access..

It is all out.. and looks like the bearings are knackered... very stiff and noisy when trying to spin...

I may well look at a recon, or perhaps a cartridge replacement...

Thanks for the help

 

G

guineafowl21

Well-Known Member

• Apr 30, 2017

• #24

Staggan said:

Thanks

12mm spline was needed.. and I removed the exhaust downpipe for easy access..

It is all out.. and looks like the bearings are knackered... very stiff and noisy when trying to spin...

I may well look at a recon, or perhaps a cartridge replacement...

Thanks for the help

Click to expand...

Very interested in this, as I've never worked on a turbo. Can you really tell the bearings are knackered without oil pressure or is it obvious in yours?

 

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Staggan

Member

• Apr 30, 2017

• #25

The bearings are noisy and feel gritty... they should move freely.. there is not a lot of lateral movement in them... but the turbine is not spinning freely..

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Apr 30, 2017

• #26

guineafowl21 said:

Very interested in this, as I've never worked on a turbo. Can you really tell the bearings are knackered without oil pressure or is it obvious in yours?

Click to expand...

Tactically you can't tell the condition of the bearings without oil in them. They can feel like there's lots of slop. However if the turbine snags on the casing. There's a good chance the bearings are past there best.

Staggan said:

I may well look at a recon, or perhaps a cartridge replacement...

Thanks for the help

Click to expand...

I'd just fit the CHRA. Unless the vanes are showing signs of failure too.

 

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Staggan

Member

• Apr 30, 2017

• #27

It's not that the bearings are allowing movement.. they feel very gritty and the movement of the turbine is not smooth...

I think the CHRA is a good option while it is all out

 

Alibro

Well-Known Member

• Apr 30, 2017

• #28

Looks like a simple enough job.

 

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

• Apr 30, 2017

• #29

Alibro said:

Looks like a simple enough job.

Click to expand...

Actually replacing the CHRA is easy. Finding one worth fitting can be a challenge. There are many poor quality Chinese RAs about. These have a short life and can cause diesel runaway if an inlet oil seal fails.

 

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Staggan

Member

• May 1, 2017

• #30

It is quite a simple rebuild using the CHRA... and with it apart it is well worth the £100 to do it...

 

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Staggan

Member

• May 10, 2017

• #31

So, turbo rebuilt and all seems fine... just have a question...

The sealing washers on the oil feed pipe.. and the bolts...

How many washers should there be? I have 3... 2 on the turbo end and one on the engine end...

And the bolts are different.. which goes where?

I should have made a note.. but didn't..

Any help would be appreciated..

And the new cartridge feels a lot different to the old.. smoother, moves more freely as well.. fingers crossed...

 

S

Staggan

Member

• May 18, 2017

• #32

Happy to report that the job is done and the car is now driving fine... much better acceleration, no loss of power and no more smoke...

The job is much easier if the exhaust downpipe is removed and getting the turbo back in can be... stressful.. but it is all done.

Thanks for the help