RossRobObey · Oct 28, 2017

Morning all,

I've had a drone that's gotten progressively worse over the last few weeks, I narrowed it down to n/s rear wheel bearing.

Bearing purchased by reg from ECP (top link): https://www.eurocarparts.com/wheel-bearing-and-wheel-hub, however I didn't check it against VIN. I noticed they both mentioned active bearing sensor.

Change went fine, noise is now no more, but I have the 3 amigos, ABS, TC and HDC in orange. I was in a rush to get home, so haven't yet plugged it in to clear codes, but was wondering if I could have messed up with the bearing.

I couldn't see an ABS pick-up ring on the driveshaft, it certainly didn't look like it had fallen off. So I'm not sure how the ABS sensor gets it's signal, is my Freelander the type with magnetic pick up in the bearing? When I fitted the new bearing there was no noticeable difference to either side, but I'm now wondering if I purchased the non-magnetic bearing.

I get there's no real question here but any input would be great. First step on Monday will be to clear any codes and see if that does it, otherwise I fear I may have fitted the wrong bearing.

Oh, I may have got the blowtorch a little close to the ABS sensor wire, it didn't look damaged but I guess that could have had an effect, so I guess I'll change that before purchasing another bearing

Thanks,
Ross.

RossRobObey · Oct 28, 2017

So checking my last MOT, my VIN is xxxx74A4xxx, so it looks to me like I've messed up! I purchased the bearing for the earlier VINs, which I'm assuming don't have the magnetic part of the sensor?

Nodge68 · Oct 28, 2017

A 2003 could well have the ABS reluctor ring in the bearing itself, your lack of rings on the CV proves this. This means that the bearing needs to be of the later reluctor type and also needs to be fitted in the correct orientation, so the correct side is outwards.

RossRobObey · Oct 28, 2017

Thanks, that's the conclusion I'd came to and the one I had feared. Looks like the hub will have to come off again.

Madmustang · Oct 28, 2017

I think you want the newer wheel bearings one side is brown. This contains the magnetic magic the later Mk25 Abs units get its speed sensing trickery from. here have a look at the Video

dapinky · Nov 3, 2024

Holy thread resurrection, Batman! I know it's 8 years since anyone last wrote on here, but maybe someone will benefit from the information - I certainly did!
Basically, as a result of a wobble vibration through the steering wheel I took out the front driveshafts (having bought 2 new aftermarket ones) - yes, I know - aftermarket are NOT recommended - but anyone who has seen my other posts will know that the Freelanders I buy are 'End of Life' vehicles in the UK, usually without an MOT and non cost-effective to get one and/or use it here....... but if I can get it to continue for 4500miles in 3 weeks, it has a chance of a new life for many, many years in The Gambia as a Bush Ambulance.
If I thought that it would go the distance without my teeth falling out, I would have kept the old ones, but the vibration was worst at 60-70mph - just where it would notice the most and be worst for me.

So, whipped the bumper and undertray off, dropped the gearbox oil and started the strip-down.

Obviously, the driveshaft nuts defeated the ugga-dugga - but not the big bar with a 6' scaff bar on the end - and the bolts to the shocks were not (too) seized.

I discovered that the NS one was no problem at all, but the OS one needed a new oil seal on the IRD casing, and the wheelbearing was a bit graunchy.... so best swap it whilst I'm here.....

All done, and back together - chuck 4L of new oil in the autobox (which was what came out, so a good starting point before checking the levels properly in a bit), and off for a drive up the road before checking for leaks, topping up levels etc etc......

..... except we had the '3 Amigos' on the dash and F4 gearbox fault. However, the good news is that the vibration is no more

All research (and common sense) suggests that it is a speed sensor issue, and something which I have messed about with. So, I assumed it was the ABS sensors (or wiring for them) - but with no access to a good code reader it is either buy one for a hundred squids, or pay a garage £50 to do it for me..... Decided to buy one, and can always sell again for fifty and at least have the use of it for a bit.....

Then found this thread

.

Yep, in my haste to get it all put back together, I fitted the bearing with the rubber/plastic side outwards instead of inwards (or the other way round depending if you mean in relation to the hub, or to the car!) assuming that the ABS gubbins was in the metal bits, and being far too blazé to research it fully, I GOT IT WRONG.

Still, I used the search function and it got me here...... I now have another bearing on order, and at least it should all come apart far easier this time, and it will be sorted in an hour (once the part arrives and I get round to it).

So, things to take from this:-

(1) always check before doing something you've not done many times before (I must have changed dozens of wheel bearings over the years, but never on a Freelander).
(2) Remember that you never know everything
(3) The 'Search' function of any good Forum is always a good starting point
(4) Finally, no matter how good the search - if the wonderful members of the forum haven't submitted anything, it won't help - so big thanks to those who bother to post things, and those who comment on them, helping us all.

GrumpyGel · Nov 3, 2024

dapinky said:
Holy thread resurrection, Batman! I know it's 8 years since anyone last wrote on here, but maybe someone will benefit from the information - I certainly did!
Basically, as a result of a wobble vibration through the steering wheel I took out the front driveshafts (having bought 2 new aftermarket ones) - yes, I know - aftermarket are NOT recommended - but anyone who has seen my other posts will know that the Freelanders I buy are 'End of Life' vehicles in the UK, usually without an MOT and non cost-effective to get one and/or use it here....... but if I can get it to continue for 4500miles in 3 weeks, it has a chance of a new life for many, many years in The Gambia as a Bush Ambulance.
If I thought that it would go the distance without my teeth falling out, I would have kept the old ones, but the vibration was worst at 60-70mph - just where it would notice the most and be worst for me.

So, whipped the bumper and undertray off, dropped the gearbox oil and started the strip-down.

Obviously, the driveshaft nuts defeated the ugga-dugga - but not the big bar with a 6' scaff bar on the end - and the bolts to the shocks were not (too) seized.

I discovered that the NS one was no problem at all, but the OS one needed a new oil seal on the IRD casing, and the wheelbearing was a bit graunchy.... so best swap it whilst I'm here.....

All done, and back together - chuck 4L of new oil in the autobox (which was what came out, so a good starting point before checking the levels properly in a bit), and off for a drive up the road before checking for leaks, topping up levels etc etc......

..... except we had the '3 Amigos' on the dash and F4 gearbox fault. However, the good news is that the vibration is no more

All research (and common sense) suggests that it is a speed sensor issue, and something which I have messed about with. So, I assumed it was the ABS sensors (or wiring for them) - but with no access to a good code reader it is either buy one for a hundred squids, or pay a garage £50 to do it for me..... Decided to buy one, and can always sell again for fifty and at least have the use of it for a bit.....

Then found this thread.

Yep, in my haste to get it all put back together, I fitted the bearing with the rubber/plastic side outwards instead of inwards (or the other way round depending if you mean in relation to the hub, or to the car!) assuming that the ABS gubbins was in the metal bits, and being far too blazé to research it fully, I GOT IT WRONG.

Still, I used the search function and it got me here...... I now have another bearing on order, and at least it should all come apart far easier this time, and it will be sorted in an hour (once the part arrives and I get round to it).

So, things to take from this:-

(1) always check before doing something you've not done many times before (I must have changed dozens of wheel bearings over the years, but never on a Freelander).
(2) Remember that you never know everything
(3) The 'Search' function of any good Forum is always a good starting point
(4) Finally, no matter how good the search - if the wonderful members of the forum haven't submitted anything, it won't help - so big thanks to those who bother to post things, and those who comment on them, helping us all.

Well done for getting it sorted - well when the new new bearing arrives!

Only thing I'd add is that a Google search is often better that a search within the forum. A few billion $ invested in the algorithms generally finds stuff better. Just add landyzone.co.uk and freelander in the search and its amazing how many more appropriate wonderful member posts it finds.

dapinky · Nov 6, 2024

I agree that Google is often an easier search, but after the first 2 or 3 threads, the real answer is often hidden somewhere on a linked thread - but at least the answer can be arrived at.... far better than just asking 'the same old question'. At least, if I ask a question, it will be after I've spent time failing to find the answer already!

Anyway, to finish it off - fitted the new bearing yesterday evening, and it was far easier the second time! Couldn't get out for a road test until today when there was a clear path through the driveway...... F4 never came up, but it took about 20-30 seconds of driving for the 3 Amigos to go out. Still, all sorted, so back into the garage for the next bits of work (refit sump guard & front bumper, tighten up the driveshaft nuts when Mrs comes home and can apply the brakes for me, a new pair of discs are on order as I decided that the current ones are not good enough, and £40 is worth the spend!.

Oh, and who the hell decided on the system for releasing the tension on the auxiliary belt? The AC one was knackered, and I didn't want to risk it breaking and damaging something else. It took 20 minutes to take a slice off a 24mm socket and weld it to a flat bar as a cranked spanner wouldn't fit in, and a combination spanner wouldn't work..... once the tool was made it was about 10 seconds to slip the belt off, 2 or 3 minutes to swap the AC belt, and another 20 seconds to replace the aux belt as I only slipped it off the main pulley....... but that bloody tensioner access is appalling.

RossRobObey

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RossRobObey

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Nodge68

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RossRobObey

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Madmustang

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dapinky

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GrumpyGel

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dapinky

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