Hi. No interior lights. No ignition lights No dash lights. Key fob is good but car only opens with door key. Even with a new fully charged battery no power.
Many thanks. Al.
 
I'm confident that Shere Khan is going to pay for it to be converted to electric. He's just waiting for the battery technology to make it a viable alternative with a decent range.

If he doesn't, I will maintain my current opinion of him as being a poisonous midget.

When he has finished, tell him to pop on down to the cut and convert my boat too.
 
Hi. Further to much cursing we now have ltd power on the P38.
Clock is working. SRS lamp (Only) working
Sat Nav comes on. Heater Blower working.
Still no ignition. No Head/side lights.
All fuses checked etc.
Have been advised that the electronic unit under front seat may be faulty?
Cheers Al.
 
Hi. Further to much cursing we now have ltd power on the P38.
Clock is working. SRS lamp (Only) working
Sat Nav comes on. Heater Blower working.
Still no ignition. No Head/side lights.
All fuses checked etc.
Have been advised that the electronic unit under front seat may be faulty?
Cheers Al.

Depends where the power trail goes cold. I need to load RAVE on this computer and have a look but you should be able to see in the electrical section which circuits come through the BECM (under the driver's seat on RHD car) and which bypass it.
 
Hi. Further to much cursing we now have ltd power on the P38.
Clock is working. SRS lamp (Only) working
Sat Nav comes on. Heater Blower working.
Still no ignition. No Head/side lights.
All fuses checked etc.
Have been advised that the electronic unit under front seat may be faulty?
Cheers Al.
It might, and there is a chap on here that both tests and repairs them.
@Rick-the-Pick is your man @ https://callrova.com/range-rover-p38/ is the best place to go (IMHO) but AVOID Turner Diagnostics at all costs.
 
Depends where the power trail goes cold. I need to load RAVE on this computer and have a look but you should be able to see in the electrical section which circuits come through the BECM (under the driver's seat on RHD car) and which bypass it.

Believe BECM controls the dead areas. We will try and get the diagram off line.
Have found a new unit in box described as a
EMECU this has never been fitted but unsure if this would solve the problem? This may have been purchased by a previous owner. The challenge continues
 
Believe BECM controls the dead areas. We will try and get the diagram off line.
Have found a new unit in box described as a
EMECU this has never been fitted but unsure if this would solve the problem? This may have been purchased by a previous owner. The challenge continues
Do not even think about trying to change the BECM, you need to sync it to the engine ECU, you need key FOB's to go with it which also means the key. The Mileage recorded may also change. there are also different versions of the BECM.
Things like the ABS light do not go via the BECM. Have you checked all fuses under the bonnet and under the seat? Is the carpet wet in the drivers foot well? Have you checked with a DVM that you have voltage at the engine compartment fuse box? That's just for starters, you don't jump in and start swapping out complicated bits untilall the basics have been checked.
 
Do not even think about trying to change the BECM, you need to sync it to the engine ECU, you need key FOB's to go with it which also means the key. The Mileage recorded may also change. there are also different versions of the BECM.
Things like the ABS light do not go via the BECM. Have you checked all fuses under the bonnet and under the seat? Is the carpet wet in the drivers foot well? Have you checked with a DVM that you have voltage at the engine compartment fuse box? That's just for starters, you don't jump in and start swapping out complicated bits untilall the basics have been checked.
 
Also worth checking you have 12V at all 3 power terminals on the side of the BECM (where the fuse box is). You should have battery voltage between the rear-most stud (the BECM ground point) and each of the other 3 studs (they have thick brown wires going to them). If you have battery voltage between each of them and the ground point, then the BECM is getting power.

If you are missing 12V on any of them, then time to check the maxi fuses in the engine compartment fuse box, and also the fuse box itself.
 
Also worth checking you have 12V at all 3 power terminals on the side of the BECM (where the fuse box is). You should have battery voltage between the rear-most stud (the BECM ground point) and each of the other 3 studs (they have thick brown wires going to them). If you have battery voltage between each of them and the ground point, then the BECM is getting power.

If you are missing 12V on any of them, then time to check the maxi fuses in the engine compartment fuse box, and also the fuse box itself.
Cheers for the info. Will post when solution found. Big thanks. Al.
 
The under the bonnet fuse box is a well known fault area. pull the relays out one by one and look for melting or scorching the fuse box may have burned out do a search on here for fuse box.

As Datatek says swapping the BeCM out requires some thought its not a case unplug old one and plug new one in. if it turns out the BeCm has gone faulty, you're better off sending it in to rick the pick to repair rather than replace it
 
I'm still not sure it's a BECM issue - unless the battery has been connected with reverse polarity in the past... then it's anyone's guess.

At the moment, my best guess is fusebox under the bonnet, or wiring/fuses somewhere....
 
This is a basic volt meter test job just looking for where the volts are or are not using RAVE.
 

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