Hi,I have just recently bought a 2002 disco 2 td5,it has a strange problem as being,when you try to start in the morning,you have to crank it for a while then it fires up,after that it normally starts and runs ok,but recently it has added problems,it is now a hit or a miss when it starts off the button or not,sometimes it can sit all day and it fires up immediately, other times you can leave it 30 mins,and have to crank it over and over before it starts,once or twice it also cut out when I came to traffic lights or junction,please can anyone help as I really like this motor,but I also need it fixed before winter,to make it more reliable, thanks...

Could be few things. Dodgy crank position sensor maybe, possibly air in the fuel or low fuel pressure at the gallery.
A diagnostic tool will show a crank position sensor fault and it is a cheap and easy replacement. Fuel is more tricky.
When you turn on the ignition and before turning the engine over does the fuel pump (in the tank at the rear) make a noise for more than a few seconds?
If so have you tried purging the fuel system of air? Turn on the ignition, press the accelerator pedal about 5 times until the engine warning light flashes, then go and have a cup of tea while the system purges itself.
If this helps then air may be getting into the fuel system. The fuel filter is worth checking first including the air bleed valve and non-return valve. If not there then possibly the injectors are leaking and the copper washers and o rings need replacing. There are some good walkthroughs on YouTube on how to do this.
If not then the fuel pump may be on the way out. You can check output by plugging a suitable pressure meter into the sensor port on the fuel pressure regulator. You should see 4 bar. If not, then again there are some good videos on Youtube on how to replace the pump. The good news is that the pump on a Disco can be accessed through a panel in the boot floor. On a Defender you have to drop the fuel tank removing part of the sub frame in the process.

Hi,thank you very much for your reply, yes when you turn on ignition you can hear the pump,very loudly,I have tried the purge thing and yes it does seem to help,but only for next morning,the pump is very noisy and seems to continue all the time,when I do the purge,it takes about 3 mins,I have done this 3 times in a row,and I do have to admit that the pump was not as noisy after this,until next day again,what I can't get my head round,is that for a day,it starts all day right off the button,then other days,it is difficult to start after leaving for 30 mins...

Injector seals I reckon. Sounds similar to my experience with worn seals. A cheap and relatively easy fix.

Thanks for your reply,if it is injector seals,would it still run as sweet as a nut once started,or should there be other tell tale signs to confirm this,because once mines is started it runs and ticks over like a new engine?,I have just been outside this moment,and it has been sat for 3 days,and it started immediately, I don't know if it matters,but it has been parked slightly uphill,could this be a possible solution that it could be fuel leaking related?...

Discovery66 said:

Hi,thank you very much for your reply, yes when you turn on ignition you can hear the pump,very loudly,I have tried the purge thing and yes it does seem to help,but only for next morning,the pump is very noisy and seems to continue all the time,when I do the purge,it takes about 3 mins,I have done this 3 times in a row,and I do have to admit that the pump was not as noisy after this,until next day again,what I can't get my head round,is that for a day,it starts all day right off the button,then other days,it is difficult to start after leaving for 30 mins...

Click to expand...

fit a new air bleed valve and do injector washers and o rings

Thankyou,should I also replace non return valve?,or do you think that what you have suggested could sort my problem?...

Discovery66 said:

Thankyou,should I also replace non return valve?,or do you think that what you have suggested could sort my problem?...

Click to expand...

fuel issue is generally pump,injector washers etc and air bleed valve,from what youve said pump seems to be working ie once airs out it sounds normal

Check out the many write ups on how to do injector seals but add this

When you've got the injectors back in and torqued down with new seals and copper washers fitted - connect wiring loom and turn ignition to position 2 to engage pump and ensure you have no leaks before putting everything back together and starting the engine.

Saves a lot of hassle if somethings not 100%

this would all be after insuring your fuel lines have no leaks, connectors are intact and not rotted to red dust and so forth

Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions,I will start at the easiest and work through all,thanks again it has been most helpful and appreciated from all,I will let you know how I get on...