Grrrrrr · Friday at 17:49

pwood999 said:
So he popped round again this morning & had another look. As I don't have a dial-gauge & zero familiarity of the FIP, etc I'm not gonna risk touching that.

Checked underneath and no obvious leaks from tank pipes. All the fittings appear to be sealed ok as far as I can see.
Checked both ends of all the leak-off pipes, and no signs of fuel leaks, so I'm guessing there's no air getting in there.
Did Nanocom screenshots & recording of live fueling data - see below
Did not have time to unplug the fuel line into the filter to check flow there.

None of the fueling readings vary much when I revved the engine to 2000rpm.

View attachment 339167

View attachment 339168 View attachment 339169 View attachment 339170

Was that an engine fully up to temperature idling?

pwood999 · Friday at 20:34

yes I beleive so, but only check using gauge, not diagnostics. Nanocom EDC fueling menu doesn't seem to show temperature like my GEMS.

Datatek · Saturday at 07:45

pwood999 said:
yes I beleive so, but only check using gauge, not diagnostics. Nanocom EDC fueling menu doesn't seem to show temperature like my GEMS.

You can see the EDC engine temperature on Nanocom, not sure which screen as I do not have one.

Flossie · Saturday at 08:37

It is on nanocom. I seem to recall it's not on the same screen as modulation which is a faff, a minor faff but a faff nevertheless.

Grrrrrr · Saturday at 08:48

pwood999 said:
yes I beleive so, but only check using gauge, not diagnostics. Nanocom EDC fueling menu doesn't seem to show temperature like my GEMS.

Hmmm. Modulation is a tad high but I would expect problems starting hot rather than cold. Problems starting cold sounds more like glow-plugs or in-tank pump.

I posted up a spreadsheet with a trace from mine somewhere. Or PM me your email address and I will email it to you. Later models are less prone to hot-start issues for carious reasons, one of which was the in-tank pumps runs when cranking.

Alex Seaton · 2025-04-20T19:19:54+0100

pwood999 said:
So he popped round again this morning & had another look. As I don't have a dial-gauge & zero familiarity of the FIP, etc I'm not gonna risk touching that.

Checked underneath and no obvious leaks from tank pipes. All the fittings appear to be sealed ok as far as I can see.
Checked both ends of all the leak-off pipes, and no signs of fuel leaks, so I'm guessing there's no air getting in there.
Did Nanocom screenshots & recording of live fueling data - see below
Did not have time to unplug the fuel line into the filter to check flow there.

None of the fueling readings vary much when I revved the engine to 2000rpm.

View attachment 339167

View attachment 339168 View attachment 339169 View attachment 339170

Just done this on mine where it was fine starting with new glow plugs then had a hard start, had a recent fuel pump, pump tilt was all the way advance and reading was at 12 when fitted, it went upto 16/18 and had cutting out issues, not advised but sliding the lower part of the top of the fip back the tiniest amount sorted it. Its a work around i think for worn chain but makes it usable again.

Alex Seaton · 2025-04-20T19:22:51+0100

Alex Seaton said:
Just done this on mine where it was fine starting with new glow plugs then had a hard start, had a recent fuel pump, pump tilt was all the way advance and reading was at 12 when fitted, it went upto 16/18 and had cutting out issues, not advised but sliding the lower part of the top of the fip back the tiniest amount sorted it. Its a work around i think for worn chain but makes it usable again.

Also to add, firstly I would fit new glow plugs, they're cheap and probably dead. Paint mark the pump and pop the inlet off then undo the 2 12s and the 13 by the oil filter not all the way, give it a gentle tilt towards the block and you should see the injected quantity go down, I think the sweet spot is around 4/5mgs. Hopefully you don't have to do the work around i had to.

Grrrrrr · 2025-04-21T08:26:29+0100

Chain stretch tends to affect hot starting rather than cold. Moving the FIP top is really last ditch stuff. Idle should be 750 rpm. If no-one has touched the FIP in the past then it is probably due a refurb.

Mark Piercy · 2025-04-21T09:15:58+0100

Agreed

if the pump was too advanced it needed to be retarded

Datatek · 2025-04-21T09:56:13+0100

Alex Seaton said:
Just done this on mine where it was fine starting with new glow plugs then had a hard start, had a recent fuel pump, pump tilt was all the way advance and reading was at 12 when fitted, it went upto 16/18 and had cutting out issues, not advised but sliding the lower part of the top of the fip back the tiniest amount sorted it. Its a work around i think for worn chain but makes it usable again.

Safer and better to just re-time the FIP.

RangeRoller dt · 2025-04-21T11:07:17+0100

If you don’t have the kit or comfortable with fip time it up using Datas ruler method. 50-60% should be okay for now. 50 is ideal.
Important when you retime it that the final movement MUST be towards the engine.

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd

pwood999

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Flossie

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Grrrrrr

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