Hi,
So I was changing the cambelt and on a discovery 200 tdi engine (in a defender), and have undone the central nut on the injector pulley (nut fits a 22mm socket), with the spring washer behind it!! I gather I shouldn't have done this without locking the pump, and in any case is not necessary for replacing the cambelt, hindsight being a great thing!! So I am not sure how to proceed and retime the pump, does anyone on here have any experience with this or are there any helpful threads or sites anyone can point me to, any help much appreciated!!
Thanks in advance!!

You might be ok, I did the same thing though it was a 200tdi defender engine. See this thread.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fip-and-the-centre-nut-you-shouldnt-undo.342777/

Thanks for the link turrican, some handy info on there. You wouldn't happen to have any photos of the before shots you took, so I could compare and see what it is supposed to look like. Are there markings on the shaft or did you mark it, I cant see any marks on mine.
If I think its ok and its not, and I try starting, am I right in thinking there will be no damage caused, it just wont fire? Also, did you replace the spring washer behind the nut, the one I took off looks shot, no spring left in it, its flat. If so where did you get it, I'm having difficulty finding the exact one. Also do you know the torque setting for the nut, and did you use the timing pin lock on to prevent the injection pulley from turning when torqueing up the nut, as I read you shouldn't do this, but cant see how else to do it.
Cheers

There’s a guy on You Tube called Britannic Restorations who does a lot of videos on 200 & 300 TDis.
You’ll have to search his channel for a video on 200 timing.

There were no official markings. I took photos before I disassembled everything, I could see that the discolouration and various marks hadn't moved.
I was lead to believe no damage would be caused if the timings out.
Regarding the spring washer, I just rebent to give it some spring but I did put threadlock on the nut to make sure.
I did tighten with the pin in, I can't remember the torque. I'll try and find the info.

From memory there is no key in the drive coupling but the coupling is securely locked on its taper and even with nut off takes lots of force to remove.
When the coupling is fitted originally the fuel pump plunger lift is set with keyway in shaft approaching number 1 cylinder using a dti through the plug in centre of injector pipes, lift on plunger usually 1mm but a fuel injection shop can tell you exact figure if you give them the ten digit number off your pump which should start 0460 ### ###
the pump is then locked in place with correct plunger lift by removing the horse shoe washer from lock plug on side of pump near drive (see pic) by backing off 10 mm bolt half a turn and nipping up the bolt. With pump locked at correct plunger lift fit the drive coupling and insert timing peg We used to fit coupling and just nip the nut to hold it then hold coupling, remove peg and torque up nut. Don't forget to put the plate back behind the lock bolt! and don't be tempted to tighten 22mm nut against lock bolt or timing pin

Thanks Adrian. I’m hoping it the shaft hasn’t moved independently of the coupling and is locked on the taper. Do you know the torque for the large m14 bolt that holds coupling on, I’m struggling to find anything on it. So you are saying just nip the afore mentioned bolt, then hold the flange coupling to torque? How would you hold it without damaging it?

I think it is 70 ft pound. If pump is off the engine hold coupling in vice with soft jaws. If it is on then ideally you need a piece of bar with holes drilled in it to bolt to hub. As long as coupling did not fall off it will not move. When we used to pull them they are so tight on taper they go off like a cannon. A properly machined taper can transmit huge amounts of power without spinning. People worry about having no key but the key if fitted is just to time a coupling on tapered shafts. If a taper coupling should come loose it would destroy any key in a flash.

Thanks everyone. I just did the injector flange nut up to 55 nm using a plate I made to hold the flange, and hoped it hadn’t moved. Put it all back together and she seems to go fine.