Well JM, I can see how both would work but my point is, who cares what the temp of the top hose is as long as the rad can cope. If you are only monitoring the bottom hose, then you will only intervene where necessary. Some rads and setups are much more efficient than others.
 
Now we have cleared that up, where and what fan did you get?

Im gonna go to a breakers yard tomorrow and ask for a peugeot fan and thermostat with the casing that it goes into like MHM. £20 and I'm away, ill use some cable from the old 200 tdi I've ripped to bits
 
Well JM, I can see how both would work but my point is, who cares what the temp of the top hose is as long as the rad can cope. If you are only monitoring the bottom hose, then you will only intervene where necessary. Some rads and setups are much more efficient than others.

Top makes sense to me, if you're measuring temp at the bottom hose and have a very efficient rad then actual coolant temp around the engine may be too high. Probably doesn't matter a whole lot.....I hope! :eek:
 
Now we have cleared that up, where and what fan did you get?

Im gonna go to a breakers yard tomorrow and ask for a peugeot fan and thermostat with the casing that it goes into like MHM. £20 and I'm away, ill use some cable from the old 200 tdi I've ripped to bits

Try and get cable off Pug, its needs to be very thick as it carries a lot of current, plus you will need 40 amp relay to be safe:)
 
Try and get cable off Pug, its needs to be very thick as it carries a lot of current, plus you will need 40 amp relay to be safe:)

Ive got the battery cable from the disco that or I've got the thick brown from the alt that went to the battery, probably overkill but it'll do it.
Ive got a relay from the disco, ill see if it tells me what amp is on it!
 
Ive got the battery cable from the disco that or I've got the thick brown from the alt that went to the battery, probably overkill but it'll do it.
Ive got a relay from the disco, ill see if it tells me what amp is on it!

Don't think the brown is heavy enough, have a look at the cable on the pug fan to get an idea, I have a twin fan set up off a Pug 205 and am going to use one fan on the 90 when I get the cable and relay that is:)
 
Top makes sense to me, if you're measuring temp at the bottom hose and have a very efficient rad then actual coolant temp around the engine may be too high. Probably doesn't matter a whole lot.....I hope! :eek:

Shirely, If the coolant that leaves the rad to go around the rest of the system is sufficiently cool (i.e. the fan doesn't come on and it's not "overheating" as the fans bust) then the coolant in the engine bay will circulate and cool down, this preventing the engine being too high?

Or do you mean without the fan then the other components that could do with a little cooling may overheat due to the fan being off most of the time? :fighting:
 
Top makes sense to me, if you're measuring temp at the bottom hose and have a very efficient rad then actual coolant temp around the engine may be too high. Probably doesn't matter a whole lot.....I hope! :eek:

If the rad is very efficient the the coolant temp would be too low, not too high, the thermostat would close a bit and the coolant temp rise - all would be well with the world :)

To illustrate this point, if I turn my fan on manually, it makes no difference to the engine temp as it simply closes the stat a bit more to retain heat.
 
The stat is what stuck shut and boiled up my 19j, i don't even want to run 1 in my 200tdi... lol
 
The stat is what stuck shut and boiled up my 19j, i don't even want to run 1 in my 200tdi... lol

You could always get a ptroper water temp stat with matched sender that shows you the real engine temp in degrees. It won't stop your stat from sticking but it buys some peace of mind.
 
Well JM, I can see how both would work but my point is, who cares what the temp of the top hose is as long as the rad can cope. If you are only monitoring the bottom hose, then you will only intervene where necessary. Some rads and setups are much more efficient than others.

The poiint is - yu dont care what the temperature of the top hose, or the bottom hose! The important temperature is that of the coolant in the engine. Unfortunately it is not easy to measure the temperature within the engine, so the most practical answer is usually to measure the temperature of the hottest coolant as it leaves the engine. This is also usually where the thermostat is placed, not surprisingly.
As you dont want the engine coolant overheating, it is best to monitor this as soon as it leaves the engine block, so that extra cooling can be instigated at the earliest possible time.
If yu have an efficient overcooling radiator and measure the return temperature, it is conceivable that the engine coolant has gone above its maximum. Not good :(.
 

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